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2 May, 2007 11:59:36 | in art, culture, lifestyle

A Dane addicted to Peru


http://filer.livinginperu.com/features/img/ec_carsten.jpg600400
LivinginPeru.com founder and Editor-in-Chief, Carsten Korch
 
© Malu Cabellos
This past Sunday April 29, Peru's largest newspaper El Comercio published an interview with our Editor in Chief and founder Carsten Korch. Some of you might have met him, but for those of you who haven’t had the chance to, you can read about him in this interview written by El Comercio's Milagros Leiva.  Translated by Joe Lara
(El Comercio link -Spanish-)

(LIP-jl) -- He is happy eating aji de gallina and drinking pisco sour.  Carsten Korch is convinced that Peru is the true land of opportunities.  Two years ago he created LivinginPeru.com, an English language website which completely covers everything that happens in Peru.

"The first time I came to Peru was in April 1990.  I originally came to visit a Peruvian friend whom I had originally met on a train while traveling from Barcelona to Switzerland.  During the train ride, she completely changed my concept of life.  I was a very materialistic person and sitting before me was a woman who thoroughly enjoyed traveling.  Her name was Susana and she told me: "To travel is to live.  Everything that you see and experience will be a part of your memory and nobody will be able to take it from you.  If you have a car and for some unfortunate reason fail to make the payment, then, most likely, the lender will cold-heartedly repossess it.  But who can take away your traveling experiences?'

That fateful conversation in 1986 changed my life forever.  I saw her once more and then she moved to Peru.  Today, Susan lives in the United States and she is one of my best friends."

And how did you first visit Peru?

I was living in Los Angeles and I was about to return to Denmark.  However, the night prior to my flight, I abruptly decided to go to Peru.  I went to the Aerolineas Argentinas counter and it turned out that the woman behind the counter was Peruvian.  Without further thought, I took the next flight to Lima.  I was 24 years old and the woman gave me her ex-husband's telephone number.  I didn't find Susana in Lima because she had gone to Mexico, so I decided to call the airline attendant's ex-husband.  My name is Carsten, I said.  He smiled and responded: "Of course I know who you are!  My daughter called and told me that a crazy Viking was on his way."  He asked me where I was staying and he picked me up.  The following day he invited me to his daughters birthday and said: "Be ready at 1 O'clock!"


I'm guessing you were ready at 1...

It was 1 O'clock on the dot and he was just getting out of bed.  It was actually kind of funny.  That is the day that I realized time and punctuality were very different here.  If someone asks you to have lunch at 1pm, then they really mean 3 or 3:30pm.  We bought beer, wine, and made pisco sours and at 5 in the afternoon, we sat down and had lunch.  By that time, I was a little woozy from the alcohol.  The man offered me a place to stay and I moved to Miraflores.  My original plan was to stay for 2 weeks - I stayed for four months.

What did you do?

I traveled a lot.  I stayed in Lima for about a month and a half.  Everything was very cheap with inflation during Alan Garcia's first term (as president).  I remember when I had just arrived, I exchanged 1 US Dollar for 22,000 Intis (Peruvian currency during the time) - It was crazy.  Four months later, that same dollar was worth 365,000 Intis.  I felt like a millionaire.  I rented a room in Cuzco's Plaza de Armas for 2 months and it cost me $0.50 per night.  I was there for 7 weeks and met Virginia, who is now my wife.

Where did you meet her?


In the Qoyllur Ritti festival.  Days later, I saw her walking around the plaza and I asked her to dinner.  Luckily she said yes.  Though she didn't like 'gringos', she still accepted.  We became more than just friends but she soon moved away to France.  We kept in touch and 5 years later, she visited me in Denmark.

After 5 years?

Yes, I think she didn't find anyone better (laughs).  She returned to Peru and we traveled back and forth to see each other, but then one night in Cuba the inevitable happened. "I don't care if we live in Lima or in Denmark, but I don't want to be away from you any longer," I told her.  So off we went to Denmark.

And what did you learn from you trips to Peru?

The first time, everything seemed so different to me.  Coming from a rich country, it was a tremendous cultural shock.  In Peru, I learned that I didn't need anything.  It wasn't necessary to have a television or a car.  The most important thing was to talk to people, make friends, and travel.  I met a lot of people who were very happy despite having very little money.  When I returned to Denmark my friends asked me if I had joined a secret cult!  Today, in many ways, I consider myself more Latino than Viking.

When did you decide to live in Peru?

In 2001 we decided to return to Peru for a year.  I saved money and needed a break from my tiring job.  I wanted to learn about Peruvian culture and improve my Spanish.  When I arrived, I became involved in a variety of projects and it was then that I discovered that Peru was the land of opportunities.

Doesn't that distinction belong to the United States?


No, that's just hearsay.  It's Peru.  There are many things to do here. Unfortunately, most Peruvians, and the rest of the world, aren't aware of this.

It is said that Peru is a country that has everything...

It's true!  It is one of the few countries on earth that can provide fish, meat, fruits and vegetables in abundance.  It's amazing.  I don't know of another country that is so rich in those terms.  It has different climates, rich culture and profound history.   Lima is like a disastrous jungle in many ways, but if you travel throughout Peru you will be left in awe.  LivinginPeru.com was created because 99% of foreigners said: "Peru?  Natives dressed in beautiful colors, mountains, and of course, Machu Picchu."  For me, this wasn't true.

So it was created just to change that reputation?


That was the main reason.  I learned so much about Peru that wanted to tell the whole world about the riches of this marvelous land.  In the beginning, I thought about opening a company which specialized in adventure tours to help create awareness that Peru was much more that just Machu Picchu.  Every time I came, people asked me: "Where do I do this?  How do I do that?"  That's when I thought: Why not make some sort of yellow pages for foreigners?  So I designed a website.  One day, a person from the U.S. Embassy (in Lima) called me and told me that they could share useful information for American residents.  I thought this was a great idea.  Later, I met people from the European community and it is then that I understood that foreigners who came to live and work in Peru were starving for information.

And you created LivinginPeru.com?


We officially launched on July 28, 2005.  We now have sections that are dedicated to travel, daily local news, business, features, classifieds, movie guide, and an events calendar.  Our readers recommend things for us to do.  Just last month, we had over 70,000 visitors.  Today, we have 20,000 subscribers and 60% of them are Peruvian.  And through it all we have maintained our initial idea: All our information should be in English.  I guess you could say that I started the website because I love Peru.  I am an addict.  My wife says that she probably couldn't convince me to go back to Denmark - She's probably right.

What don't you like about Peru?


The traffic.   People in Lima don't care about pollution.  They aren't the least bit concerned about repairing their cars.  Lima's bus drivers drive like madmen and it bothers me when people open their windows and throw trash onto to the street as if it were a dump.  Despite all this, I have seen change.  In 2002, most Peruvians preferred to buy imported products rather then those made in Peru.  This really troubled me.  Today most people believe in Peruvian products. Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio has been a big reason for this.  He, as well as other chefs and cooks, have made Peruvians rediscover their cuisine.  The same is happening with Pisco.  The Swiss are mad about Peruvian coffee produced in Villa Rica, and if we all knew about these types of things, perhaps farmers would prefer to plant coffee instead of coca plants.  We publish great stories about Peruvians who know how to do things right.  I like people who dream - go-getters.


What causes you sorrow?


The quality of public education.  I hope politicians have the decency to remedy this problem.  It doesn't matter how much coffee we sell or how much gold we find, Peru's situation will never change if we aren't able to give every Peruvian child a quality education.  That should be President Garcia's main objective.  That is what happened in Denmark.  We aren't blessed with natural resources. We are a small country but we are one of the richest countries in the world because of our educational system.  Education is the key to development.

After all these years, do feel Peruvian?

At times, I feel more Peruvian than most Peruvians:  When I am in peace, accompanied by my family in a beautiful place, with incredible food and a fabulous pisco sour... it's indescribable.  So many years have gone by and I still appreciate fresh lemonade made from Peruvian limes.  I know that if someday I leave Peru, I won't be able to find a lime with such acidity and flavor.

I understand that you are big fan of pisco sour

I have told my wife that if someday I am dying in a hospital and I am not able to eat or drink, then please inject a glass of pisco sour into my veins so that I can dye comfortably.  All of my Danish friends who visit me know that the first stop in Lima is my apartment so that they can try a pisco sour.  Everyone loves this cocktail.  The last time I visited my country I took lots of bottles of Pisco and 20 liters of Inca Kola.  They loved every drop.  The story about Inca Kola is one of my favorites since the powerful Coca Cola couldn't beat it.  We published this story on our website.  We should know the stories behind the mangoes that we export and the artichokes that are selling like hot cakes.  Bad things happen in Peru, but so do beautiful things and that is why it is a land of opportunities.

Well, we've already started to value our cuisine...

I think it's the best in the world.  I love aji de gallina.  I also believe that it is impossible to say which restaurant is the best in Lima because there are so many to choose from.  I can assure you that in a few years, Peruvian food will be just as popular as Chinese and Japanese food.

What is your favorite saying in Spanish?

"Viva el Peru" and "Un pisco sour, por favor."  I love how simple words show affection by adding diminutives: la cosita, el vasito, el platito, Nicolasito.  Truthfully, it is not difficult to live in Peru.  If you have a good job and a great family Peru can be paradise.  There are many things that need to change, I know.  I come from a country that is organized; here there is a lot of chaos.  But you can find a balance between the two.  You can find happiness in Peru.  I can attest to it.

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21 Comments

# Suzanne Archer(Rodriguez) says :
2 May, 2007 [ 03:30 ]

Hi,my name is Suzanne and I am Canadian. I married the man of my dreams in Peru on Septembet 19 2006. I can agree totally with you. I too love Peru and would move there in a flash,however my son is still young and doesn't want to leave canada. I'm just waiting for my husband to arrive in Canada and start a life together. I am coming to Peru in July for a visit and I was wondering if you can give me some ideas where my husband and I can go and stay near the ocean for a couple of nights,just have a nice romantic get-away for the 2 of us. The last 2 times I was in peru we were very busy arranging things for our marriage. I want to surprise my husband with a nice trip for two.
     Thank you so much and I really enjoy reading LivinginPeru........Suzanne

# Rosa Maria D. MacNeil says :
2 May, 2007 [ 05:51 ]
Thank you for your beautiful and meaningful comments about life in Peru, it is sad  to see that some similar comments could not come from a Peruvian who lives in Peru and takes for granted his country's treasures because he does not know the difference until he travels and can miss them. I am a Peruvian by birth, now naturalized and living in the U.S. since 1971 I raised a family in the Midwest and my kids love Peru just like you do. I guess they find there the love, care and closeness of the family,their grandparents and relatives, so we can't wait for our vacations there.My husband (50%German, 25%Viking, 25%Scott) loves Peru too and we both love pisco sours, ceviche and all Peruvian food. Indeed we think we have the best of both worlds, while our kids are getting a great education both in the U.S. and Lima, we are still hoping someday we could spend our winters in Lima.
# Bob Kelley says :
2 May, 2007 [ 10:18 ]
Thanks for translating the article. It only increases my desire to make Peru my full time residence. Its hard to explain my attraction to Lima in spite of all its noise and pollution. Your experiences and outlook on life are inspirational.
Bob
Las Vegas, EEUU
# Maria Michele Vanoli says :
3 May, 2007 [ 02:18 ]
All this is very nice, for sure the food is fantastic, people are kind and Peruvians always enjoy a good party, but the sad truth is that for the "average Peruvian" life is an uphill battle and often there is no light at the end of the tunnel. Let us not forget that 40,000 Peruvians left Peru last year to pursue happiness abroad. I agree with Mr. Korch that there is so much to be done and the resources are endless, but a country can not grow if the people are not educated and if the mentality regarding the community does not change. The situation in the public education system in Peru today is catastrophic and we are all aware of rampant corruption. This little popular saying sums it up “Si no vives conchudo, mueres cojudo”. I am sorry to burst the bubble but I find it difficult at times to enjoy life with so many of my fellow citizens standing at every traffic light. To all of you, working to make a positive difference for Peru, Keep up the good work!
# Tino Reyna says :
3 May, 2007 [ 11:26 ]
I am a native Peruvian, from Lima, and am writing this because I see someone who says that loves Peru and its many interesting things here, despite of that here it's a poor country with lots of needs and some troubles. Mr. Korch shows a good example, an important one that the same Peruvians should learn and follow, more than any other foreigner interested to know about Peru. In fact, I'm happy to know that this website shows everything we want to know about Peru, and also the way that the rest of the world may see. And all these things makes me feel proud of being Peruvian, maybe more than ever...
# Nelson says :
3 May, 2007 [ 03:49 ]
I have to agree: living in Peru can be stressful and disheartening. There are far too many peruvians lacking decent employment, the streets are full of desocupados and underemployed men and women. However there is one basic flaw in this assumption about Peru: it's Lima. 
Lima stretches over a very small area of Peru:  96 percent of Peru comprises small town living, isolated valleys and pristine countryside. In fact much of Peru is made up of pockets of territory, isolated valleys and natural reserves. Opportunities abound but unfortunately they're not for the peruvians to take advantage of: peruvians are far too blinded by their own prejudices to see prospects in their country. Foreigners like Carsten can find a lot of opportunities in Peru however europeans are in general well traveled and experienced and they might find particular niches of territory in Latinamerica to establish a living situation. The fact remains that Peru does not offer
# Nelson says :
3 May, 2007 [ 03:56 ]

that Peru does not offer basic guarantees in the SYSTEM, neither in the legislative nor in the judiciary much less in the executive branches of government. Corruption plagues the judiciary, the executive abuses its powers to legislate by decree, and the legislative branch is made up of opportunists with little accountability. Peruvians know it well, that's why they travel elsewhere out of the country seeking not just opportunities but a less corrupt or inept system.

# Carsten Korch says :
3 May, 2007 [ 08:12 ]
Dear All

Thank you for all your comments.

Peru has it all - opportunities and challenges!

I see progress in Peru, not only in the established part of society, but all over. We receive input from various places around Peru that it is not only in Lima, but also in throughout the country.

The situation in general is improving among the population, but of course there are still many people who live in poverty and need help to cover their basic needs. That’s a problem for the government and the Peruvian people to solve. We only try to help the best way we can.

It's important to show all aspects of Peru, GOOD AND BAD, and while many organizations and institutions are focusing on the challenges (problems), the LivinginPeru.com team TRIES to cover it all with the limited resources available to us.
Only showing the problems will not attract tourism, foreign investments and create interest for Peru, but by letting "the world" see both the opportunities and the challenges in Peru, every one interested in Peru will hopefully get a better idea of what Peru is all about.

Please send us your input and feel free to start a debate in our Forum to create awareness about everything happening in Peru. Let’s all work for a better Peru.

Yours Sincerely

Carsten Korch
# nina maria says :
4 May, 2007 [ 08:30 ]
Hi, my name is Nina and I have two daughters with a peruvian husband. A few weeks ago I found livinginperu.com site and since that reading this site is a everyday must thing for me. Since I understand spanish a little this web site is the best media to get information from Peru. Thanks for that. When I first visited in Peru two years ago I fell in love with peruvian food and I wish I would be able to eat that way in my country too. Please make it happen :-) We live in a nordic country and potatoes are very essential part of our kitchen but of course our country do not have so many varieties as in Peru.
# Luis Contreras says :
4 May, 2007 [ 04:31 ]
Mr. Korch
I'm peruvian and I'm happy too... to know that this website shows everything we want to know about Peru... I love the pisco sour too... thank you so much for livingperu.com..
# Michael Bianchin says :
7 May, 2007 [ 01:05 ]
Dear Mr. Korch,
my name is Michael and I am from Merano/Southtyrol/Italy. I am 26 years old and used to work in the hospitality sector for about 10 years. 2 month ago I met the women of my life, my soulmate. She is Peruvian, from Arequipa. I didn't know a lot of Peru since 2 month ago, just some stories from a very good friend of mine that like you is addictet to Peru, by the way, my girlfriend Angela is the sister of his girlfriend!
Now all my lifeplans have changed, my new goals are to move to Peru as soon as possible, improve my spanish, find a good job or start a business in the tourism and the most important, create a family with my better half.
I would be very pleased if I could contact you once I am in Peru and go for a pisco sour together and may you could give me some advices. I will come there for holiday from November 8th to Dicember 1st.
In the meantime I say thank you for everything you do on this webpage and hope to meet you soon.
Kind regards
Mike Bianchin
# Ann Tucker Velazco says :
7 May, 2007 [ 05:29 ]
Dear Readers,

I am an American woman and a newcomer to life in Peru. In June 2006, I decided to embark on a "spiritual journey" in Peru. It was my first visit, EVER. I had just retired at age 49 from a long career in law enforcement and I wanted to experience life differently and meet new folks. I've always appreciated multiculturalism and diversity, so this promised to be very exciting! I went joyou
# DARLIN MARIA CUZCANO HUARCAYA says :
10 May, 2007 [ 10:53 ]
CoolHello, I am Peruvian. I am 27 years old and the truth I feel proud of being Peruvian, I love my country, our food, customs, vernacular music, our climate, in truth master this earth. I knowed of this pàgina Web on Sunday that I reading in the newspaper the COMMERCE about you Mr. Carsten. I enchanted with You to the single one to read on You. In truth I then thank for that deep love to him that it has by this country and THAT ALIVE THE PERÙ! Laughing
Fone: 461-2873
Movil: 9809-5361
# MARIA TERESA RODRIGO says :
11 May, 2007 [ 06:19 ]

I returned to Peru after 26 years working for an international organization in the USA.  I had a difficult time adjusting to the traffic, noice, and bureucratic procedures.  Regardless of those first difficult years, due in part because I got sick and lost my independence and mobility, today I have recuperated and could not change my country, my cuisine, my childhood friends and my family for anything else.  I have visited the most exotic destinations around the world, so now-a-days I try to visit the towns amd cities in  Peru.  I take pictures which I share with my friends overseas and always tell them to come back to their roots and try to make this country work better.  Thank you for putting up this wonderful website which I have shared with many people living around the globe hoping that one day they will make the big choice of returning to this land of opportunity..  ¡Congratulations on a such wonderful project!

# Phillip Bastians says :
15 May, 2007 [ 02:05 ]
After reading your article, I too am very proud of being Peruvian.
And pray one day Education will greatly improve.
I am sad of the corruption in Latin American Countries.
Maybe one day we will have equal financial globalisation or maybe the West will give back what they stole from Latin America.
Its sad that a Peasant worker in Peru will slave his guts out making say alpaca jumpers and get paid 50 cents an hour yet that Jumper would sell in the US for say $200. And you can buy an alpaca jumper for say $30 in Peru. This is the tragedy. 
No wonder Peruvians immigrate to other Countries in search of wealth.
Yes Peru is the land of opportunity if you are very well educated & have lots of money to spare. 
I too love Peru but feel sad & angry at the state of the country.
Its easy to put down Peru if one is from a Rich Country which more than likely stole Perus Riches.  
# Susana McNally says :
21 May, 2007 [ 08:23 ]


Dear Mr. Korch,

I have been reading all  your article published in the COMMERCE and I am very very happy to see a person from another nationality prides so much my country. I am peruvian( bien limeña), and I am very proud to be peruvian, I am living in Australia and  my husband came from England. We have visited Peru 5 times and he is in love to Peru. My sadness is to hear the peruvian who living overseas, they don't speak very good about our country, they express only the bad things. Therefore, I have started to contact all my friends and sending your interview to show people the good things caming from another nationality.

We are in the process to return to Peru because the experience to live  overseas  make me to realise that Peru has love, warm, friendship, happiness and our blessed land that offer more than you expect, like Peru there isn't another country, our Peru is UNIQUE. We all have to work together if we want the country progress and reconize by others overseas countries. We have to start by ourselves, change all the bad habits and behaviour.

I hope, when we caming to Peru, we can met you and it will definetely this year,

Thank you very much for this opportunity

Susy

# Miguel Martinez says :
3 July, 2007 [ 12:17 ]
Thanks for those comments about my country, as peruvian I feel proud of my country unluckily for me I'm not welcome in Peru no anymore why?is a long history don't take me wrong I don't had kill or steal nothing just guess they call me a traitor of my own country this is sad and bad history happen to me and I prefer to don't enter in detaisl.Well I left Peru 30 yeras ago when I was a very young men.Lima was look so different then now,of course I grow up in different orphanages,but the destiny send me to this great country,that is why I agree with you guys, there is a saying "Nobody is prophet in his country"and that is true.I become expert in telecommunications so is in computer security and people respect me.And I have a lot of recognitions thanks God,but I planning to return one day problaby as illegal but I will.
# Karyna Nation says :
18 August, 2007 [ 06:16 ]
Wow Mr Korch,

You've become more PERUANASO than the Peruanos themselves!!!!!  You & my husband would get on really well he's an Aussie & fell in love with Peru looooved his pisco & ceviche & chupe de mariscos so much so that when we were there he went with an uncle of mine to catch crabs in chorillos took them back home made chupe & ate them without me knowing & got typhoid that same night but hey.....he want's to go back for more that's how 'addictive' Peru can be & everything you said is great & true from the beginning to the in betweens (totally agree about the public schooling it's really bad, improvement starts with the education of the children & their well being, the government & the Peruvian people need to sort that out) and the end......You made me feel good inside because I am Peruana left the country (I was 2 1973 ) & I know Peru has a lot to offer it has, with all it's natural resources my goodness Peru would be close to Paradise if it wasn't for such a corrupt government....oh by the way I discovered your website 'living in Peru' only a few days ago it's fantastic I should let mum & dad know about it & I will send this article on what you said about your beloved adopted country to them as well.

Thanks heaps!

karyna. 

p.s. just to reasure you & everyone else reading this when we go back to Peru my husband will not catch crabs from chorillos to make chupe again....believe me he's learnt his lesson!!!!
# yolanda perez says :
23 March, 2008 [ 07:58 ]
I visited your magnificent website only about 2 or 3 days ago. I viewed some videos promoting to visit different regions of Peru, also viewed how Pisco was manufactured & other videos that I can not find in your website now. Could you please direct me where they were moved to?
# John Tringham says :
28 April, 2008 [ 03:25 ]

Thanks for a great website - so interesting to see what other people's views are on Peru. One of the comments posted above mentions the fact that an alpaca garment sells for $ 30 in Peru and $ 200 in the US, whereas the person who laboriously makes it gets practically nothing for their efforts.  Unfortunately, thats the way capitalism works and thats why Peru is losing [ apparently ] 40,000 people a year seeking a better life elsewhere.  Yes its sad, but thats the way it is.

I was born in Lima in 1942, went to Markham College and left Peru to live in South Africa in 1968 and I have not been back since and have no contact whatsoever with anyone from there for a long time. I used to live in Los Condores, Chaclacayo, but when I check out that region in GoogeEarth, I cant even recognise the place anymore. One thing I disliked particulary about Lima was the climate - no sun for 9 months of the year !! Also the Barriadas and the litter. Its no fault of the poor people to have to live in such bad conditions, its a pity that there are no job opportunities in other regions except Lima.    Where I Live now its still a third world country, but the sun shines nearly every day and we have squatter camps, but nothing as squalid as those in South America.
I must make a plan to get to Peru again sometime, but this time as a mere tourist - I have such fond memories of those faraway times...

  

# Helen O\'Doyle says :
19 July, 2008 [ 10:45 ]
Great website i love it keep it up to inform the whole world about this faboluos and challenging country. I am an america married to a peruvian architect of italian background.When i first him i couldn't believe he was peruvian.But as he explained to me well there are people who came from different parts of the world to stay in Peru during the 19th century among them italians.We live in San Francisco and he points out to me that the plaza Ghiraldelli carries the name of an italian who came from Peru during the gold rush.Anyhow , we have traveled to Peru for the first time together in 2005 after 25 years of being away i could see tears of joy in my husband's eyes. He found a different city than the one he left but as he said Peru is a country of big opportunities and it has many challenges that peruvians themselves have to solve.Yes there is prejudice and discrimination and poverty but once peruvians find their own identity and learn to live in a country with so much wealth and culture they will probably prosper and be greater than any country in the world.We are planning to go in the future to celebrate his 50 and probably to stay. It is a wonderful country with so different worlds and still wonderful.With more education a lots of social problems could be solved.And that is going to be the key for peruvian succes.
PS after being 25 years away my husband told me that there are still social class issues that are slowly changing in peruvian society.hopefully with education this problems one day will be solved and make this country great.

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