Living in Peru : your everyday companion

By Larry J. Pittman

There is a standard conversation with Peruvians that I experience in various locations but which I call “Taxi Talk”. I use this name because it is the same conversation I have had over the past three years with the taxi drivers I have ridden with. However, a similar conversation can also take place at parties, family gatherings, and so on. Here is how it goes:

After negotiating the fare, I get in the taxi and settle in. Usually I sit in the front seat next to the driver so I can practice my Spanish.  (Most of the time the dialogue is all in Spanish, but occasionally the driver tries to practice his English with me)

TAXI DRIVER: Excuse me, but are you from here?

ME: No I’m Californiano (Perversely I do this to confuse)

TAXI DRIVER: (Pauses to digest this) Oh, you’re from California.

ME: Yes, I’m from San Francisco, but now I live here.

TAXI DRIVER: How long have you lived here? Do you like Peru?

ME:  I have lived here for three years. Yes, I like Peru.  I’m married to a Peruana.

TAXI DRIVER: ( smiles) What good luck for you, eh? ( nudges me with his elbow)

ME: Yes, and she is a great cook.

TAXI DRIVER: Oh, do you like Peruvian food?

ME: Yes. I love it. I especially like dishes such as Ceviche, aji de gallina and lomo saltado. The fruits and vegetables are excellent here, too.

TAXI DRIVER: ( taking this in—pauses- thinking) Yes, Peru has the best food in the world.

ME: I totally agree.

TAXI DRIVER: But, don’t you miss California? Peru is a such poor country and very disorganized.

ME: Yes, sometimes I do miss California, but this is my home now. I like it here and I intend to stay. I think that Peru has a good future, too.

TAXI DRIVER: ( frowns--a little puzzled by what I have said). Well, I have a brother ( cousin, uncle, etc) in New Jersey. Someday I hope to join him there. There are no jobs here. I used to be an Engineer. The only thing I can do is drive a taxi.

ME: I’m sorry to hear that.  I read in the papers that the economy is growing so perhaps there will be better opportunities.

TAXI DRIVER: Yes, I think you are right. Let’s hope so. At least I am able to put food on the table for my family.

ME: It’s been a pleasure riding with you. Best of luck. Perhaps we’ll see each other again.

TAXI DRIVER: ( Shaking my hand) Until then, hasta luego.

There are several variations—one the driver will mention Arnold Schwarzenneger, the Governor of California, who is universally known as the Terminator. This then launches a discussion about the films that he has seen with Arnold. Also he may say that my Spanish is excellent and where did I learn it. Knowing that this is not true, but merely a courtesy, I say that I am still learning.

Let me say that it is rare to find a taxi driver who is rude or discourteous. My brief conversations with them and others in similar situations are a pleasure for me.

Another reason why I like living in Peru.

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Great article Larry!!! I loved it. Short, sweet, to the point and with an excellent portrayal of this great country. Thanks!!

>Peru has the best food in the world.

False.

Most Peruvians I discuss EEUU with seem to think that
Miami is center of the New World.

Great Larry!!! You are right , the food is excellent, lucky you are there enjoying the delicious peruvian food, I love it!!!!!!!!!!
My best wishes.

Mister cuy frito o chactado, what many americans told me,  is that Miami seems to be today a third world country.

"I like it here and I intend to stay." That statement gives me a little more courage to move back to Peru. I think its the best time to leave the USA and probably the best time to arrive Peru.  Bussines predictions say we are going up and it would be very soon.
At this point  I have to say that " mas vale lo malo conocido que lo bueno por conocer." In preparation for my return I started to watch some peruvian news and didn't like what I felt; suddenly I realized that I am indian. It is not that I feel less as a human been, its that in Peru as you must know allready, discrimination(racial and age) is brutal. When a person applies for a new job or a promotion, your skin color matters. Bueno, have to have estra energy to fight back, because I'll be going anyway. In contrast to all that, it is a paradise here, where I live now, Long Island, NY. 

 

Larry,

A very poignant description of how people show their curiosity towards foreigners. I think it is very admirable and shows their interest in travelers or resident people like you. Reflecting on myself, I find myself often in situations where I keep asking the same questions in order to get a conversation of the ground or simply learn more about someone else. A very natuaral approach I would think.

Talking about food; Peru must have one of the most diverse offering when it comes to main dishes and of course it does not stop there, the amount of fruits and vegetables are main boggling and make my mouth watering by just writing this here.

 

Very nice article.

 

Sven

Great perspective on this aspect of Peruvian culture Larry!  I enjoyed your piece.  For me the food in Lima is the best and I know the desserts are the best in the world... Suspiro de Limena!   CHeck out my blog at http://perubound.blogspot.com/ for some state side perspective of Peru.  I am also married to a Peruvian.  Saludos!

I am an American living and working in NYC and am visiting Cusco for the second time the first two weeks of August. The first time I was there was 7 years ago and I absolutely loved it! I have always fantasized about living there and now I getting more serious about it. I would love to here your thoughts about being an expat. How is it finding work? Do you get bored or homesick? What are home prices like? Anything you can share will be greatly appreciated!

Thank you in advance,

Sayan

On my recent visit to Lima (after 33 yrs.),taking a taxi to move around was the most logical way to get anywhere. Taxi drivers were courteous, they converse and ask questions. For the most part, humble and respectful....if you treat them well,they will be glad to be a 'private chouffer' for you,your friends, family and buss. associates. They'll get you where you're going safe since they fight the traffic every day....like a 'rollercoaster' :o
Make arrangements in advance with your favorite driver he'll be glad to comply or will send another taxi to pick you up....don't forget to lock up the doors and roll up the windows...!