Living in Peru : your everyday companion

On Friday, March 20th, at the Estadio Monumental in La Molina, Peter Gabriel played in Lima, Peru for the very first time. The stately singer, known for his ground-breaking videos and songs such as "Solsbury Hill" and "Sledgehammer," embarked on another of what must be thousands of performances. However, as all Limenos know, in Peru, there is a different energy than in the rest of the world, and by the end of the show it was clear that even this veteran performer was touched by the reception he received here.

by
Ben Jonjak

I'd never been to a concert in Lima before, so I wasn't sure what to expect. In the US, of course, things transpire a certain way and frankly I was hoping that Peru wouldn't follow the American trend. In the States, you'll frequently go to a concert and get into some kind of brawl with either security, other fans, or the typical hordes of drunken maniacs who magically appear on the streets at around midnight (then again, maybe my stateside experience was only a side effect of the bands I used to see back when I was sixteen). But here in Peru, I'm pleased to say, everything was super suave, and from this point forward I believe I'm going to make Peru my number one destination point for concerts of all kinds.

My photographer Isabel and I arrived at the gates at 8:30. As with all concerts, the whole area was barricaded off as far as the eye could see and strapping men in red shirts with "V.I.P. Security" printed on them prowled the grounds vigilantly. Although they exhibited a pretty fair presence of authority and competence, the whole point of a rock concert is that thousands of screaming fans simply cannot be contained. Instantly upon our arrival, the energy was palpable in the air emanating both from the fans and, though they'd never admit it, the security.

We made our way with the other members of the press and were hustled forward to the base of the stage not ten feet from where the artists would be performing. At 9 o'clock sharp, Peter Gabriel himself announced the first act: The Black Swan Effect. As soon as the music started (vibrating right to the core of my spine from a speaker four inches from my brain), I started to feel that familiar terror/euphoria that my old concert-going days used to provoke.

Early into his set, Gareth Hale of The Black Swan Effect" declared (in passable Spanish), "this song's for all the lost souls!" The crowd didn't seem to know how to respond (I don't think that kind of rock 'n roll moment is so common here), so Gareth just gave an amused shrug and commenced to carry-on. I, however, encouraged by his display of rock and roll vulnerability decided to lend a helping hand. I raised up my arms and started screaming and clapping, "let's hear it for the lost souls! Whoooo!" (I can be obnoxiously loud when I want to be). The effort lent force to a smattering of applause and Gareth was amused enough that he came over and chatted with me for a while after the show (in between signing a few autographs; he seemed like a pretty nice guy).

By the time The Black Swan Effect wrapped up their solid set (they're a band to keep an eye on), the late arrivals had all finished trickling in. Let me tell you, it's always those final minutes between the opening act and the headliner that are the most exciting in any concert situation. As we waited, we snapped a couple pictures of the crowd, which seemed to get them happily riled up a little more, and they started to break out humming the opening bars of "Sledgehammer" and bursting into spontaneous giggles.

Soon enough, the lights dimmed, and the speakers blasted the first notes of "Rhythm of the Heat." This was followed quickly by the spotlights which blasted down upon the man of the moment, Peter Gabriel himself, dressed smartly in a blue shirt and black vest. For the first three songs ("Rhythm of the Heat," "On the Air," and "Intruder"), Isabel and I were allowed to stand and snap photos from the foot of the stage (to be any closer, we would have to have been holding tambourines).

It was exciting to be able to observe the performance from such an ideal position. Peter Gabriel works hard to be enigmatic (not in an annoying Andy Warhol kind of way, but more in a sense that is playful and mysterious). He's one of those performers who designs his choreography with huge stadiums in mind preferring large hand-waves over more subtle dance steps (which is actually quite considerate when you consider how difficult it is to see from the back). He also likes to address the crowd with an almost militant body language; hands flat down at his sides and a stern forward gaze with as little movement as possible. It's almost as if he's attempting to intimidate the audience; but then, every once in a while, a playful sparkle escapes his performance visage, and you see how much he loves the spectacle, the ambiance he's creating, and, above all, the music. The flashes of childlike glee are quite charismatic, and you can't help but be drawn in.

After the first three songs, the press was pushed out of the stage area to make room for the pyrotechnics of "Steam" (I'm glad they moved us or we would have been smoked out by fire extinguishers). It was only upon being moved to the wings that I noticed the two huge screens that framed the stage and which switched between images of Gabriel and the other members of the band.

As the concert continued with "Blood of Eden," "Games Without Frontiers," and "No Self Control," Gabriel took to introducing the songs by reading short anecdotes that had been translated into Spanish. He looked fairly scholarly addressing the Peruvian crowd in Spanish (which is never easy to do when it's not your native tongue), and in the moments when he stumbled over words he grumbled to himself self-deprecatingly and the crowd chuckled along with him in encouragement.

Gabriel's daughter Melanie then took the stage for "Mother of Violence," and then Gabriel followed her up with "Darkness," "The tower that ate people," "San Jacinto," and "Down to earth." After that, the songs needed no introduction as the band thundered off into the familiar refrains of "Solsbury Hill" (which Gabriel sang while skipping around the stage followed by the other members of the band) "Secret World," and "Sledgehammer."

"Sledgehammer" was clearly the fan favorite, and when it finished the delighted crowd serenaded the singer with the familiar "O-lay, olay, olay, olay" to which they spontaneously added "Pe-ter, Pe-ter." The cheer went on for several minutes and Gabriel merely stood and listened quietly with a pleased and surprised expression on his face before offering a sincere, "gracias." He finished up with "Signal to the Noise," and then returned with two encores including: "In Your Eyes," "Red Rain," "Father and Son" and "Bilko."

Every concert is different depending on the audience, and as Peter Gabriel took his bows, it was clear that the palpable Peruvian energy had once again worked its magic. The crowd applauded lovingly in salute of Gabriel's unique sound that can only be unsatisfactorily described as techno-pop-melancholy-celebration (with the celebration highlighted). As the lights came on and the people embarked on their own personal journeys leading them away from this special shared rock moment, we all knew that it was going to be a great memory to cherish. Let's hope that Peter Gabriel returns to Lima soon. Somehow, I think that with the reception he received here, we won't have long to wait!

Photos by Isabel Guerra

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9 Comments

# Julián says :
22 March, 2009 [ 06:17 ]

Great pictures, especially the third one!!

# sebastian krys says :
22 March, 2009 [ 10:08 ]

I don't know what concerts you've been to in the United States, but having lived here (in Miami and now Los Angeles), for 27 years, I really don't know what "hordes of drunken maniacs" you're talking about. I've been to hundreds of shows and festivals in the US without incident, of all musical styles, including punk, hard rock, etc., and the only time I've ever been in a stadium riot was in Argentina at a Copa America soccer match. If anything, US audiences are more sedate, compared to other places. It's nice that the experience of watching music is different in every country and culture, as it should be, but your assessment of the concert experience in the US is off the mark.

# Benny Galavís says :
22 March, 2009 [ 02:47 ]

Great article Ben, wonderful Photos Isa! I missed the concert here in Caracas, Venezuela. But the comments I've heard are all very good. I guess the quality of the concert was very similar to what you experienced in Lima! In any case congrats Ben and Isa, you did a great job!!

# Dax Sean-Paul Michael Raintree says :
22 March, 2009 [ 04:36 ]

Great article Ben and awesome photos Isabel!!Cheers to u ,Ben and Peter.

# lancelot says :
23 March, 2009 [ 12:41 ]

Mostly in USA but in UK as well yahoos,meatheads,knuckleheads,yobs whatever u call em hit the street after a gig and carouse, howl at he  moon and sometimes kick ass...where did you go to shows???

# Wasatch says :
23 March, 2009 [ 07:46 ]

Yes, great pictures...i happened to notice the crowd looking like they went to a ' funeral ' or a boring seminar instead. Also, the plastic chairs in case of a 'riot'...they won't hurt if they land on your head.

I'm not sure how much were the tickets to get in, but please, show some exitement,ah?

Last time in Lima i was lucky to go to a FREE concert organized by the city of San Borja in a public park, there was beer, pisco and anticuchos served for a few soles plus tips to the mozos (waiters). We had a GREAT time and the concert production was first class. FUN ! 

The crowd was dancing, singing and just cutting it loose !

# Sean O says :
25 March, 2009 [ 05:57 ]

Sebastian, totally agree with your comments. 

Any reviewer that makes comment about "my old concert-going days" and then proceeds to review a rock show has basically disqualified his credibility as a critic.  This is, obviously, someone who stopped attending concerts long ago and has the typical adult stereotype of concerts as "bad places" where mean, out of control kids gather to do drugs.  Please, go home, lock your doors and write a column about playing bridge or gardening.  You don't belong writing reviews of concerts.

# Athena Kargeui says :
26 March, 2009 [ 11:30 ]

I agree with Sebastian Krys, Lancelot, and Sean O.

I've been to so many of rock, noise, experimental, 'indie' (now it's because of the way they dress rather than it being for being independent, whatever) hip-hop, rave, punk, anti-folk, electronica, , all kinds of music, especially rock, etc., underground rock shows and radio and just concerts all over U.S.A.,  since I was a kid and now I'm 18, this was because of travel, especially in thee Greater Los Angeles Area, and I have to say your assessment of your concert experience in the U.S.A. is WAY OFF!! Where did you go to concerts...?

 Back when you were 16 (which I don't know how long ago that was) they didn't have Peter Gabriel here in Peru, but anyway there were fucking awesome bands like Arena Hash, Leusemia, Rio, in which according to my mom and my dad say there were some people who went crazy and started fights but those small 'riots' were between the Pirañas who attended those rocks shows or concerts, just like they (Pirañas) have fights and riot and scare lots of people whenever Alianza and la U play a soccer game, it does get crazy, they usually fight at the stadium (Estadio de Alianza Lima) or on their way to the stadium, and everyone just stays away or go into a store to avoid contact with Pirañas,  Alianza (Lima) and U (universitario de deportes) are the teams, and their fans hate the other teams fans, it's too childish, but funny.

And why are all of the people attending the show.... sitting on the plastic chairs look like they were obligated to go to the show, wishing they were home watching Magaly or something like that... hahaha. yeahhhhh

# al jones says :
20 April, 2009 [ 02:37 ]

i wish i was there.
i have never heard peter do 'Bilko' before, that would have been an amuzing take on a serious song. lol

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