Living in Peru : your everyday companion

by
Brenden Allen

El Misti towers over Arequipa, the city I have been calling home for the last 2 months or so. A stratovolcano, characterized by steep surfaces, conical appearance and periodic, explosive eruptions, El Misti is an active volcano, standing at 5822m above sea level (around 19000ft). Geologists say another eruption is due, but it is impossible to say when. In 1998 6 Inca mummies were found along with other artifacts near the inner crater during a month-long excavation.

It wasn’t my yearning for physical exertion, adventure sports or spectacular vistas that sent me on the most challenging undertaking that I have ever put myself through. It wasn’t for accolades or a good pat on the back, it was because the damn thing was there and it got inside my head. I wanted to see if I could.

It’s impossible to miss this bubbling, sleeping giant that greets me in the morning from the kitchen window, always alongside me on my way up Ave Ejercito to Spanish class, continuing to distract me while I attempt to learn how to conjugate “climb” seven ways. I relax with a beer on my rooftop as she menaces over me flaunting her often-changing appearance. If there is a place in this town where she can’t be seen, I have not been there yet.

El Misti is just always there and I felt a relationship forming to the point of obsession and like the beginning of a relationship, I wanted to get a little closer, to understand more.

So with no consideration given to the badly deteriorated body I now inhabit, I agreed at a moments notice to join a local guide, Hans, my friend Sam, a typically hilarious Frenchman-Fred and a never- say-die Canadian girl, Sharon. All these folk sit at about 15 years my junior and with fitness levels I may have enjoyed when I was 4.

The 2-day adventure started with a 4WD trip to the start of the trail, picking us up at the Plaza de Armas at 730am. Fred was sweating off one too many pisco sours from the night before and Sam, staying with a host family, was kept up with a traditional wedding anniversary ceremony complete with pisco and champagne until 3am. Yes, here was my chance to even out the playing field a little..but it was not to be, these guys were machines.

Details get a little sketchy from here on in, could be the few knocks to the head we all took along the ridiculously bumpy track to the starting point, or it may be that after about 2 hours of trekking, I began to question my being there, going numb, I think I shut my brain down, kicked on auto-pilot and tried to find my happy place.

The initial climb to base camp was a one-foot-in-front-of-the other affair, legs screaming with lactic build-up and lungs suffering from the cold and increasing lack of breathable air.

You know once this has begun, you can never turn back, not because of the inconvenience you may cause but because you just couldn’t mentally prepare so desperately and find yourself heading home, tail between legs. The let-down would be harder to take than the thin air. But it was half way to the 4800m base camp that stomach cramps had me doubled over my trekking pole and the familiar gurgling below (I ate some bad salad on arrival to Arequipa that floored me for a week) beset my already pain ravaged body. Pants down, behind a rock I was sure I was going no further than that.

Things settled below as we set up camp, wind howling, extreme chill creeping and we all started wondering just how this night was going to greet us and keep us from becoming Misti-pops in our tents. Sleeping with fairly empty stomachs, at 4800m above sea level and in sub-zero temperatures is tough, most of the night I would wake, short of breath and gasping for that one deep breath that always seemed to elude me and left me full of panic and wide eyed until our 2:30am wake up call for the final ascent.

I have to say, base camp was great as it gave me a chance to really suck up the view without feeling the pain of the climb. I hope to convey some of this in my pictures, but with all the other sensory stimulation around – the howling wind, the freezing cold, I’m sure a picture could never do it justice.

Contrary to popular belief, I found the dark climb, head torches illuminating next to nothing, to be the most enjoyable part. It was like nothing I’ve ever experienced, nor possibly ever will again. The mystery of the mountain lay ahead, unexposed by the gaining sun and teasing the mind with what may be in store when the sun comes to try and thaw the badly frozen toes and fingers. Without much conversation in the trying climb, I played some Interpol on the ipod to spur my climb.

The sun came from behind the volcano and threw a shadow of El Misti across Arequipa some 2000 vertical meters below. It was completely surreal and I had to stop. If the altitude hadn’t already, this would have taken my breath away.

The rest of the climb was just plain torture. I’d left my water with Sam who was now out of sight and on his way to the top, so for maybe 2 hours I climbed without water and eventually resorted to snow just to be able to swallow. Arequipa became a dot below and the rim of the crater was starting to appear. The last hour was rough, mostly rock climbing and nothing left in the tank, just a vision of what may lay ahead.

I collapsed at the crater, too exhausted to announce my arrival to the gods, parched and feeling the dizziness 6000m above sea level brings…only to realize the highest point was another 30mins further up a narrow ridge..i couldn’t possibly, but I did and can now thank Sam, Fred and Sharon for being the driving force, even while suffering altitude sickness worse than my own.

On the highest point sits a large cross, erected in 1901 and stands above the main crater which reeks of sulphur and portrays my mental image of Mars. The surreal feeling of standing on the small raised, snow-covered peak was overwhelming. 360 degree views of the surrounding peaks, volcanoes, salt lakes, springs, rivers, desert and Arequipa below were like nothing I could have imagined, sprinkled with a large dose of satisfaction.

This heady feeling was short-lived, with the guys own heads about to cave in from altitude we made for the crater edge for the wild ride down to base camp. Its about 12 hours up to the peak and about 4 hours down. This gives some idea of the speed you can get to on the sheer slope of the volcano. A few spills amongst the volcanic gravel/snow would have given a few laughs in hindsight if we weren’t all so exhausted and eager to get down. We made camp, packed up and really started to feel severe exhaustion creep up as we hoisted our packs on our backs again and at a very brisk pace we arrived at our pickup point in under 2 hours…absolutely and completely exhausted.

Making this climb to the peak of El Misti was a significant event for me. Reaching it meant that through pain, mental frustration and the seemingly impossible made possible – I can do anything I set my mind to. It is liberating to know you can excel beyond what you once believed were your limits. I hope to be able to follow this through in my life and remember this day.

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Nice work Brendan and fantastic photos. Looking forward to our meetings in Lima.

Amazing!!!!!  The next time I visit Peru, I am planning on visiting Arequipa, and will definetly look into doing this climb.

Thanks for sharing, Peru is truly amazing.

 I want to plan a hike. any one to help me, with info.
I had been to Machu pichu and plan to do it again, this year.

Sorry I'm not young anymore. I'm 67. My legs could  climb but  my heart wouldn´t. I really enjoyed climbing "mentally" with you.
I live en Lima, Peru; I have visited twice Arequipa and I must say it is one of the best cities in Peru.  The food is superb. Thanks.

hi, im from Arequipa,  kiss ;)  add me!

Amazing pictures. Wow, the scenery is so beautiful. Great job on your adventure and conquering what you wanted to. I cant wait to visit Peru, Peru is so beautiful with its amazing culture. I cant wait to set my feet on Peruvian soil. Once again great job and God bless.

Great Article Brenden! Sorry again for taking off with your water...
But see aren't you glad you made it to the cross so you can write about how painfull it was and get it featured in LivinginPeru!! Glad to have lived it with you mate!

Hi Brenden,

We so enjoyed hearing about your amazing adventures and seeing your beautiful photography. We love the way you script your journeys....how clever. Sam & Sue

Congratulations!!, Good Article, I am Peruvian but I lived 8 year in Arequipa and I Visited The Top of Misti Volcano, I recommend to read a really nice publication in english and spanish about Misti with excellent pictures and history in this web addres:
http://www.egasa.com.pe/egasin/ingles/e_publicaciones_misti.php

Enjoy it, I had the privilege to participate as part of the publishing Committe. Greatings,
Jose Estela.

Great pictures and a wonderful site.

I have visited Perú many times, both as a student participating in the "Three Summers Master's Program" from Cal State Sacramento, and as a Latin American Destination Specialist as a wholesaler/tour operator professional in the travel business.

I lived in Arequipa for three summers while studying Spanish and have many fond memories of the second largest city and its people in that country. I personally did not walk up Misti, as I heard from the locals that the main problem was the soft soil, where you took one step and slid back three, not to mention the rigorous schedule students had; but this perfect volcanic ash cone is definitely an impressive landmark in the area.

Vive el Perú para siempre,

Joan Hunnicutt aka Juani

Great Article Brenden!

I'm from Arequipa-Peru and I love my country Congratulations!!, Good Article,

If somebody wants to do climb in my country this is my email jarly24@hotmail.com  we have much experience enjoy it with us
see you next time.

I have to agree with most of the comments about this article, it's a great one ...Thanks Brenden Allen for sharing. I actually did this climb myself in 1983, I also wrote an article that time but only shared it with close friends and  family, there was not internet then, reading this story makes me revive almost the same feelings the author of this article described above.
 I was born in Arequipa but always lived in Lima, Peru, in my short visits to Arequipa I'd always preached that every single "arequipenno" had to climb The Misti at least once in their lives so I did it, then I  lived 10 years in the USA, now I'm back and eager to try this one more time.
 I think I always had the same "because it's there reasons" like  Brenden or Sir Hillary, Tenzing, etc, why stop now?...so if anyone is interested in try this adventure,  count me in!  gallerick@yahoo.com