Living in Peru : your everyday companion

by
Stephen O'Neil

It’s late in the afternoon and the sun is rapidly dipping towards the horizon.  We need to press on if we are to make it to the next town by nightfall but the road ahead of us is pitted with potholes.  Reluctant to place more stress upon our long suffering vehicle, we laboriously steer a slalom path around them.  A few hours earlier we were baking in the sun, but now the alpine air is quickly losing warmth.  It has been another long, long day driving a moto-taxi that last saw service on the streets of Lima, but a sense of adventure drives us on.  We are tired, hungry and (maybe) lost, but it still beats sitting behind a computer in an office cubicle.

This is my future, because I am taking part in a rally from Peru to Paraguay – in a moto-taxi.  Along with teams from all over the world, my mission is to drive from Huancayo in central Peru to Asuncion, Paraguay.  Starting October 25th, we have 14 days to complete this journey in moto-taxis gathered from the streets of Lima.  Being basically the front half of a Honda 125cc motorbike with a sofa attached to the back, these vehicles are particularly ill-suited for a journey over the Andes – which is sort of the point of the exercise.  They don’t go up hills very fast – I’m told that walking is generally quicker.  The steering is fine until you have to take it around a corner, and the brakes are fine if you are not in a hurry to slow down.  Why would we want to slow down?  No doubt we will experience a break down or two.  Time to make friends with the locals!

What is the point of all of this?  Apart from providing around 150 idiots with an incredible adventure, we are raising funds for a charity called Operation Smile.  Since its founding, Operation Smile volunteers have treated more than 130,000 children born with cleft lips, cleft palates and other facial deformities. The money raised by the “Moto-taxi Junket” will be spent treating South American children who would otherwise not be able to afford such an operation. Each team is committed to raising at least 1000 pounds.  A similar race in India recently raised one million pounds in total for the designated charities.

This crazy escapade is organized by a UK based organization called The Adventurists.  It all began in 2003 with five teams taking part in a rally from London to Mongolia in old, low spec cars.  From there it grew exponentially, the Mongol Rally now an incredibly popular event that sells out in seconds.  The mission of The Adventurists - “to make the world less boring” - means that new adventures constantly need to be created, and a rally across Africa and an Indian rickshaw race are two recent additions. When an adventure is set for the first time, the first question is: can it be done? This is no package tour adventure with professional adventurers checking out the route first and making sure it is safe for the clients. There is no route.  Each team will have to find their own way, learning from their mistakes as they go. There are no support teams behind the scenes. Sounds like fun.

Our team of two – Stephen and Rachel - is called Famous Last Words. We are from New Zealand, which gave the world adventurers such as Sir Edmund Hillary and Sir Peter Blake. Like many “kiwis” we like some adventure in our lives.  However, we are not professional adventurers, and this trip will take us far beyond anything that we have attempted before. Being in our late thirties, we are probably ten years older than most of the other competitors.  Will that be an advantage or a disadvantage?  In 1999 I backpacked through Peru, Bolivia and Chile. On the Inca Trail I managed to carry my own pack at altitudes of up to 4,200 metres. Ten years on I doubt that I would be capable of that.  On the flip side, I sprained my ankle running while carrying a pack on the last day.  I doubt I would be that stupid now.  Most of our friends think we are insane for going.  We think we would be crazy not to go.  In the safety-conscious, packaged up, over-explored world of modern travel, how often does the opportunity come up to propel yourself into adventures you can only guess at.  One thing is for sure: we will never forget crossing the Andes in a moto-taxi.  Assuming we survive of course.

Since we are quite keen on surviving, and would actually quite like to make it to Asuncion before the deadline, we would like to ask for your help in making that happen.  While we are short on many of the things we will need (equipment, money, fluency in Spanish, mechanical skills), our principal need is for the sort of information that locals can provide.  We would very much appreciate answers to these questions:

• How can we keep on the right side of the law while on the road?  It takes 2 years to get a full New Zealand motorcycle license, which is required to get an international motorcycle license?  How hard would it be to get a licence in Peru when we arrive?  Is there a Peruvian road code available in English?  What about helmets? 
  
• What is the easiest route from Huancayo to Lake Titikaka, involving as little climbing as possible?  If anyone has information on the best route from La Paz to Asuncion we would love to hear from you also.  We are particularly keen to avoid the notorious La Paz to Cochobamba road.
  
• Who are the local mobile phone providers?  Ideally we will be able to use a roaming phone to update our blog directly from the road.
  
• What weather conditions are we likely to strike?  I believe that November is the beginning of the wet season, and the roads become impassable in places after heavy rain.  On the altiplano I am expecting it to be hot during the day and cool at night.
  
• We fly into Lima and need to travel to Huancayo as soon as possible.  Is the train reliable or would we be better to take a bus?  Would we be well advised to book the train ahead of time?
  
• We expect to have a day in Huancayo to practice on the moto-taxi and get supplies together.  Are we likely to be able to get everything we need (spare parts, etc) in that city?
  
• Do you know of anyone who might like to sponsor us?  We can use our moto-taxi as advertising space so it makes much more sense to have a local sponsor than one in New Zealand.
  
• Does anyone live along our route and want to support us?  We would welcome a local guide (to help us find our way – we are unlikely to have any time for the local attractions), mechanic or just someone to help us sort out any administrative problems we might strike.
  

Any information will be very helpful. Please contact us: famouslastwords@fastmail.net

Watch this space to see how we did once the event is finished. You can keep up with our adventures by reading the blog on our website http://mototaxijunket09.theadventurists.com/famouslastwords  

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I'm so glad that there are still good and nice people out there in this world. I was so happy to hear about your organization and how it is helping the the children of Peru and all of South America. God bless you in your adventure. I live in the United States so it is hard for me to give you any tips on what is the best way to get through your adventure. Hopefully soon I will be able to visit Beautiful Peru. Once again God bless and lots of luck.

If you really want to make it a "crazy adventure" with no backup behind the scenes, get here a week earlier and figure out yourself!

Way to go you kiwis - fantastic - wish you were participating also in this year's Great River Amazon Raft Race late Sept - 3 days rowing on team-made raft of 8 balsa logs tied with jungle twine or rope - it's incredible.  I shall participate for 3rd time - and God willing - will be the first to ever raft 3 times!  Tooting my own horn.... to read about it - you can check out www.IquitosTimes.com  If not this year, then next - come one yall - Let's go - name of our team is "Vamos Ya" (let's go).  Good luck on your adventure - wow!

Hola kiwis,
Good on you!!! It's a great cause and a big time adventure. I'm a peruvian living in Hamilton, New Zealand for  3 and a half years now I met a lovely kiwi guy and we got married.  Are you still in NZ?  The train to Huancayo is reliable also my family lives in Lima and I'm sure they'll be happy to guide you and help you with your questions.

All the best :)

Dear Stephen
I'm Peruvian but living 8 years outside my country.  As far as I know, you might need some local help (a mechanical that speaks English and Spanish probably).  You will need to bring or buy spare parts in Lima since the way to Huancayo is only mountains and some small houses and small stores.
The way to Huancayo, as far as I remember, is always with big trucks that don't respect small motorcycles.  If you will be in a group with several moto-taxis, maybe,  but if you will be alone, take care!

Dear Famous Last Words:

What a GREAT thing it you all are doing for the beautiful children of South America!  I was the last of my siblings to be born in Peru where my family lived for quite some time.  Although very young when we left for the states, I still a huge amount of the Peruvian culture ingrained in me..My family still eats Antecuchos, Ceviche, and Lomo Saltado for Christmas.  I recently went back with my family and got the see the incredible "land of my birth."  It was amazing!  I don't have words to describe how it felt, so I'll just tell you it felt like i was going home.  I'm sorry I can't help you with your questions...we had drivers etc. but I can tell you that i will pray for your safe journey, am amazed at the adventure you are undertaking and would like to ask if I may use your blog with my high school students....they hear me talk about Peru all the time, and I think your adventure would be of high interest to them.  Thanks...I can't wait to hear what happens!  There are MANY adventures to be had in South America!  Thanks....luck....best wishes....and blessings.

You'll have to take a bus to Huancayo. The train only leaves twice a month, takes twice as long, and costs 10 times as much. Huancayo is a reasonably big city with thousands and thousands of mototaxis, you'll be abe to find supplies and spare parts just fine once there.

Dear Stephen:

While I admire you for your love of adventure, enthusiasm and generosity, I think you won´t make it for the following reasons:

First, those vehicles are not made to travel on the mountains. The cold might freeze you. But maybe you are very accustomed to low temperatures.

Second, I understand that at some points there is no road just a narrow unpaved path which is one way, very rough and bumpy, mostly used as someone said before by enormous trucks.

Hope, you don´t dare to ride at night, that would be like committing suicide!  Anyway, I wish you the best of luck.  You will need it!

It is amazing how many people say that you won't make it when you undertake one of these adventures.

I have taken part in two rallies organised by The Adventurists.  One from London to Mongolia in a Citroen 2CV and the other across India in a rickshaw.

You will have no problems making it.  Peruvians are amongst the nicest people in the world, at least those who don't want to rob you!

If the worst comes to the worst you can always carry your moto taxi over the bad bits.

It will be an awesome adventure and I hope it goes really well.

If you are remotely interested you can read about my Indian Trip at www.justinwheeler.net/indiaorbust and my Mongolian trip at www.mongoliaorbust.com.

Have fun.

Hello Kiwi's!

I am a Yank just returned from my beloved Peru. Try the South American Explorer's Club for answers to your questions: 

 http://www.saexplorers.org/clubhouses/lima/

My mother, who passed in 2007, was a big fan of and contributed generously to Smile Train. She would be very pleased to know of your planned adventure.

Good luck to you both in your quest to benefit a great cause!

Aeyrie 

Hi Kiwi's

I look forward to meeting you at the start party. Im Lloyd from team "Peruvian Marching Pair". I did the mongol rally back in 2006, i was totally unprepared and still finished 13th out of 200 cars over 9000km.

I loved it and signed up on this one to blow out the cobwebs.

I laugh at anyone who says "you cant!" but it wont be easy thats for sure.

See you there

Hi cuz, what a great adventure. i know you will make it with all the farm skills. Am looking forward to hearing of your progress and will put my Melbourne cup bets into your charity instead. Will you be on the web during your trip? Will send you some emails along the way.

Travel well all the best. Look us up in Sydney.

Cheers Chris