Living in Peru : your everyday companion

It isn’t a phrase one hears much in Lima. In fact, every time I say it, I get looks of disbelief from locals and foreigners alike. But, I love combis.

There is something charming about dominating the public transportation system in Lima. Mastering the combis and micros is a feat, an accomplishment, a thing of pride.

There is something delightful, and oh so Peruvian, about the transit system of Lima.

My first impression upon arriving in Lima was not awe in regards to the traffic, but rather sheer, unadulterated terror. I was certain that the half an hour trip from the airport to my hotel would result in my sudden death in a major traffic accident. I was shocked by the movement of the buses—weaving in and out of traffic, coming to sudden stops and narrowly missing swiping the other cars around them.

It took me three weeks before I got on my first combi alone. I was terrified and frustrated by the lack of organization. How was I supposed to know where I was going? Which bus would take me to where I wanted to go? What time would it come? How much was the fare?

It was only after my first week of taking the micro to the university, when I learned to appreciate the chaos. I began to fall in love with the informality of the workers, the music, the manners in which you can “sube” and “baja” whenever you want. I was impressed by the changing fares (you get what you argue for), the jerky stops, the racing between buses, the “dateros,” the comments from the cobradores and the choferes, and the huge variety of people who get on the combis.

It was during my time in the combis that I learned the most about Lima. I learned about the importance of informality, the fact that there is organization behind the seemingly uncontrolled chaos that is the traffic here, the relativity of time, and the magnitude of human interactions. As a foreigner in Peru who had never experienced public transportation in her own country, I felt that Lima had the right idea. Public transportation worked; it was used by so many people that it had to.

After returning to Minnesota from Lima and trying out the public transportation system in Minneapolis, I was left unsatisfied. Why should you have to be to the bus stop at an exact minute? What happens if you run late and miss the bus? I was shocked that a few minute delay on my part may cause me to wait up to an hour for the next bus to go by. I was stunned by the price of the bus fare, and by the strict rules in regards to getting on and off the bus. I missed talking to the cobradores and arguing about how much I was going to pay. I missed being able to get off the bus when I pleased, and the fact that I never have to wait more than 10 minutes for a bus to take me where I want to go. I missed the reckless driving, the horns, the crazy cumbia and salsa music, and above all, the wide variety of people who get on the combis.

I always say, if you hate riding the buses in Lima, it is because you haven’t done it enough (or maybe because you are too tall). The micros and the combis are where you get to know the locals, get to do some high quality people watching, and get to learn about Peruvian customs and traditions.

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Photo Courtesy Robert Kittilson

The quaint parts of “combi life” that I have come to value and love, may be diminished or completely disappear with the advance of a new transportation system. Personally, there is something to be said for higher efficiency, faster bus times, and more modernized equipment. But I truly feel that some part of the soul of Lima will be lost, replaced by perhaps more efficient Western designs, while the quirky elements will be thrown to the wayside.

Perhaps I am sad about the restructuring of transit because I see it as a way in which Lima looses its unique quality and its shock value. Now it will be just like Bogotá, Santiago, and Chicago, to say the least.

With the new system, it will be harder for people be able to climb aboard for free and sing, or sell chocolates, or explain that they have AIDS and need money. While most people would find that to be a good thing, I think it represents a loss of community.

Perhaps with the new system, while on your daily commute, you won’t have to be squished up next to that person you have never seen, and never will see again. Now, you won’t have to talk to someone who is asking you to pay your fare. Now you won’t have access to shout at the driver when he makes a critical sudden stop, or swerves unexpectedly to avoid an accident.

I love combis because they bring me a unique perspective, a value of a side of Peruvian life that is difficult for me to access from my standpoint as a foreigner. I love combis because now that I know most of the routes, I feel like I know Lima as I never have before. And I love combis because they have given me a confidence in myself, and have given me a special love for Lima.

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I respectfully disagree with the premise of this article. You write: "I always say, if you hate riding the buses in Lima, it is because you haven’t done it enough (or maybe because you are too tall)."

The government of Lima owes its citizens a better transportation system that is more efficient, safer, and less of a health risk. Did you know that the World Health Organization estimates that Lima's air pollution levels are 8x higher than what it considers healthy? Every day when people ride the combis they are breathing that air.

"As a foreigner in Peru who had never experienced public transportation in her own country, I felt that Lima had the right idea. Public transportation worked; it was used by so many people that it had to."

I am also an American, but I've lived in Boston which has one of the best public transportation systems in the U.S. That being said, it still has some problems. But it has proven to me that public transportation can be affordable, efficient, and safe. Granted, there are always the occasional slow days.

I think Lima has a long way to go, but I'm hopeful things are slowly changing for the better.

As a foreigner it is always good to be positive about what you experience in Peru, and spread the word of the positive aspects of its culture. I don't think the transportation system should currently be included in that category though.

I totally agree with Levi.
Lima's transportation system is not something to be proud of, and is far from being safe.

Well spoken, Katrina!!

I think you have the sensibility to appreciate the positive that the schock of chaos can do in one person. You found the right words to express your feelings about the transportation-in-Lima experience, which largely exceeds the inmediate experience of getting one place from another. 

I am a limenian, so I must deal everyday with our own, very Peruvian chaos. Actually taking a bus in Lima has a special meaning in my opinion, if you see and enjoy it as a kind of human adventure and not simply running a routine from one place to another.
May be some adventure spirit is needed!..

I knew an american guy from Patterson, Virginia who was my teacher for a couple months the time I had to travel to the U.S. for the first time, and remember him telling about the same things you say, with the same enthusiasm.. He was happy for not having to walk much to get a Paradero, for example.
I am happy you enjoyed and learned so much about us, not only the
standard modern facilities available everywhere.

I am sure the experience will go with you for the rest of your life, as much as it was for me to know the good face of efficiency in developed countries..

Absolutely agree.  I love combis too.  This almost-total private system of transportation makes Lima unique.  One of thing i miss most when i travel, is the transportation system (i missed more the food i have to say...), because you dont have to wait, you know that is going to appear the bus avoiding spend 5 times more in a taxi, and has life (music, people, activity).  You cant replace this systems with robots, but the people who work in subways, trains, etc, behave like robots because their jobs are fucking boring. 

And for sure, makes the system private allow to get the lowest (fair at least) prices.  I love that.

Of course that there are problems.  I have to say smog (that can be correct with a maintance system) and horns (the problem can be solve with bills, like the security belt problem was solved) are externalities that other people dont diserve.

And dont worry, combis are not going to dissapear.  Metropolitano will improve the system with less traffic jams, speed and less smog (for sure they are going to have people selling habas, chifles, or dancing/playing instruments for you), but during the night, and over alternatives routes the combis will survive.  We will never be like Chicago (i dont have problems with Chicago!).

I agree with Levi Novey and there are still many negative aspects about public transportation in Lima not mentioned. I'm Peruvian and I've travelled a lot in Combis and Micros and still do, but I've always considered it one of the city's worst defects. As a foreigner staying in Lima maybe you found it amusing because it's new to you and you stayed long enough to get to understand how the system works... but not long enough to understand it's real effects on the whole city.

I agree that travelling in combis will teach you a lot about Lima, but a lot about Lima is wrong. Maybe you're unaware of all the people who get killed every week (sometimes every day) in traffic accidents caused by combis.

You also mention that a sign of the public transportation system working is the fact that many people use it. Well, the real fact is that many people don't have enough money to afford a car, but as soon as they can, they will and that's NOT the idea. Public transport should be an appealing alternative to private transport. I don't know all the facts about Minnesota, but the US in general is a country where it's very easy to buy a car and many places aren't at a walking distance. That's why you see most people riding cars and not buses.

You're also unaware of the amount of stress produced as a result of combis, not only to the passengers but also to people in other cars and pedestrians. Thankfully I don't have to spend a lot of time in combis, but there are people who spend almost 4 hours per day in these vehicles to get to their jobs!

There's an index that indicates the average amount of journeys a person does per day for every city; Lima has a low one, compared to other capital cities in South America, which means that people usually use the public transportation system only to go to work and go back home. And that's because they don't like to use the transport system. A higher index would mean that people use it for other purposes as well and this would mean a higher use of the city and getting the economy moving.

I was about to go on, but I think it's easy to get the perspective I share with Levi. I love Peru and I love our culture, but I don't love combis.

I relate to this. Public transportation was one my favorite things about Ecuador when I visited. Combis weren't common and so the experience wasn't quite the same, but I think there is definitely something lost when the transportation system --or any system-- becomes more impersonal, more efficient, and less dependent on person-to-person interactions. There's a lot to gain, too, but it would be nice if there a way to combine the best of efficiency and "quirky elements."

It might be an acquired taste, though. I know a lot of people who wouldn't enjoy shouting at the driver or bargaining for their fare!

  The writer obviously is uninformed about the terrible problems inherent in the transportation system here in Lima. Even a casual look at the newspapers would inform her of the number of fatalities caused by this charming system. As a whole the chofers and cobradors are nothing more than thugs who routinely cause accidents,injuries, and deaths for the sake of a few soles. I have been visiting Lima for past 25 years and have lived here almost 6 years and  the traffic fatalities have climbed at tremendous rate in that time due primarily to combis. Ever notice how damaged they all are? That comes from hitting children, bicycles, babystrollers as well as other vehicles. Peru is a great country with an ancient culture, it's music and art are fantastic, the people are considerate and educated. For you to pick on one of it's truly tragic aspects to write sympathetically about is very strange. I lived in L.A.for 25 years but I really didn't find the drive by shootings very charming. Think of the people killed, in comas and wheelchairs.

I agree with Levi about Lima citizens deserving a better transportation system that is more efficient, safer, and green.
I am in fact extremely happy to know that even when we have a long
way to go to achieve this; things have already started to change for better.

The chaos of the transportation has been causing many problems to Lima. It is what keeps lots of tourists from visiting Lima, and it is also the biggest complaint/ criticism of those who do in fact visit Lima (and I don't blame them at all because I understand how terrifying it can be for people that are not used to it).

So, Lima’s transportation system is definitely something that needs a lot of improvement.

On the other hand, I can totally identify with every single word, feeling, and expression, described in Katrina's article.

But, as Katrina said, it is a feeling that can only get someone who has experienced combies enough to get to know all the tricks. And the thing is that living in this chaotic combi lifestyle you have only two choices: you either take it very seriously (which involves getting mad, stressed out, terrified, etc.), or you just deal with it by try to find the bright side and let it spice your life a little bit.

Of course I have complained a lot about the chaos of the combis & micros in Lima, but I have to admit that thanks to them, I never got bored in Lima. And, you don't even have to ride them to get some fun because sometimes just by watching them makes you laugh. Even the vocabulary used by the cobradores and how they project their voice, (sube sube, baja baja, pisa-pisa) haha...It is truly a unique & priceless experience. I've been living in the US for the last 4 years and I have to say that I kinda miss my combis, haha...

I'll be moving back to Lima very soon (basically because I've been homesick since I left Lima). And I am extremely happy to know that there will be a positive change for Lima's transportation system in a near future. But before the changes start, I hope to enjoy a little bit of the "combi life" that I miss so much 

PS: Thank you all for your comments. It is always interesting to get different perspectives.

Excellent article, specially the personal touch and out of the box perspective to what is (loved or hated) a part of culture.

We can do with less pollution thoguh, and the chaos, yes love it or hate it, is part of the vitality of this young nation.

You are crazy madam!, peruvian people don't need this kind of apology of their terrible and inefficient and killer transportation system!!!!!!

Glad about changes we needed a better transportation system.

Well ...some people would like the aventure, but we Peruvians.... deserve better, hopefully the change is near... with the new Metropolitan System.

WRONG MY FRIEND!

I BORN IN LIMA AND LIVE IN LIMA

COMBIS ARE THE WORST WE HAVE ABOUT "PUBLIC SERVICE" 

BAD SERVICE, WORKERS (WHO TAKE MONEY AND GIVE TICKET) ARE DISRESPECTFUL, DIRTY, EVEN DISGUSTING.

PROBABLY FOR YOU "ITS FUNNY" OR "FOLCLORICO" BUT IT IS ONLY A SHAME FOR US WHO USE THIS PUBLIC SERVICE.

WHEN THEY DISAPPEARS, LIMA WILL BE BETTER.

REGARDS.

to certain extent i agree with Katarina but that was my prinicipal view in my first few years in Lima. Now that i have lived here for almost 6 years taking a combi, yes is an interesting adventure when you are not in a hurry or soley dependent on it to get somewhere, it not ideal and not romantic. Yes is is part of Limenan culture, but in some aspects not a nice part. Katarina once you live here long enough and know you are not going back to your country with the order and efficiency, Lima and its transportation system will not be the romantica ideal you think today. I would like you to travel in a beloved combi everyday to work from one corner of Lima to the other for atleast a year straight and then tell me what you think. THe luxury of us foriegners is that we can leave Peru and its choas, but image those that have to deal with the combi every day for 2-4 hours a day for their entire lives. Peru and Lima deserve a better, safer and quality transportation service to its citizens and not to appease young foriegners that live here for a short period of time and get a kick out of a the poor chaotic romanitism of combis.  Please wish a better Lima.. Oh, trust me Lima will never become just like Chicago, it is culturally different and will develop and grow from its cultural perspective, adapt things to its reality.   

I agree with Katrina about the micros and the combis.  The reason that I like them is because they aren't the antiseptic bus system that I'm used to.   There's human interaction happening on every single level.  Every day there's a different set of people from very different backgrounds riding the combis.  Its true, of course, that the system isn't perfect or even close to it but no transportation system is without its faults.  Personally, I'd take this transportation system and all of its problems over the one in place in my city any day

Definitely combis transportation was a response at hand for years (decades) in Lima´s transportation. Trenes electricos, efficient buses, subways... are just part of other realities, not ours at the moment.. 
Be aware that according to official numbers the famous Metropolitano  will solve about ....10% !!! of our traffic every day. 
And Tren Electrico (in case it reaaaally comes to reality) will sum other.. 10%!! For some strange reason technology seems to cost too much in Peru to get...
So, please down feet to earth everybody.
If we must deal with a reality we don´t like in all its extents, let´s try to do something positive to improve it, not just scream..

  Dear Katrina, sometimes when there is a question regarding ones own intelligence as the people who said you were crazy to love combis raised, it is better to remain silent than to speak and remove all doubt.

I also am from the US.  I lived the first 25 years in a place where there was no bus, or taxis, rural America, if you didn't have a car or know someone, you walked, and that could be 15 or 20 miles, not good.  For the last 35 years, I have lived in a city where we have a bus, of course I live several blocks from a bus stop and that means a 30 min. walk each way, and if I am a little late, or the bus is a little early, guess what, I have an hour wait for the next one, not good either.  As the lady, I miss my time in Peru, my wife wants to rent a car, and me drive when we are there, I do not, I want to hang on, wait for a seat, and let someone else worry about the crazy traffic.  I see much more, get on and off, walk for awhile and enjoy the city..

I have to partly agree and partly disagree... It is true that when the transport system changes a part of the soul of Lima will be "lost" but it is a change that needs to be done. On the other part, when it happens, the people that lives in Lima owns that new system and we can work in making that it won't loose a part of that sub-culture that is desapearing, maybe we can encourage trains drivers to put stickers in the wagons "en este vagon, la musica, el chofer y el andén son cheveres..." pops into my mind...

Congratulation Katrina! Great article!
There are good (people interaction, music, short average waiting time,...) and bad things (racing, risk of accidents, smoke, horns, ...) about our public transportation system. 
I think it would be ideal to keep the good things and to change the bad.
Regards.

Hi katrina, although many years ago that I don't go in a combi , I totally agree with you, The combis are part our Peruvian folkloric culture , hahaha!
As a photographer  I recommend you go to in one with a camera (well secured, so that no one steals you) and take the different expressions of the people riding into it.
I assure you that you will have big surprises, I did that years several ago in an airport and through the pictures and the expressions of the people could feel what they felt perfectly at the time, anguish, joy, anger, etc..
Congratulations for this wonderful article and thanks for share it.

I miss Barcelona or London public transport. Doesn't matter if I have to wait. Lima public transportations is dangerous, awful and dirty. I cannot be in love with those things!

As a Peruvian I must disagree with you like so many have done already in this blog because we Peruvians don't care about having adventures (a common stereotype about Latin America and its off beaten tracks). It's fun for the drivers and the cobradores because they gain out of your "adventure". Most of these people have little regard for the security in your transportation and the conditions of the combis are bad and they will pick up more people despite reaching capacity limit for the sake of their own mutual gain and that can create problems health-wise for its passengers. If people tell you that combis are a good way of transporting yourself in Lima or any other city in Peru then they are probably being "nice" with you because the reality is we have no choice because the government has not made strong initiatives concerning transportation in the country. I seriously hope for an underground rail system that would help move Peruvians much faster and securely because the Lima Metro does not convince me but it is a work in progress and finally the combi system should just disappear for the sake of the Peruvian citizens.

The soul and spirit of the "Peruanos" will not be lost with a more efficient transportation system, they will find a way to make it even better, more efficient and fun.