Living in Peru : your everyday companion

What's happening with LAN Peru?

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Peru-sing success: Young immigrant makes new life in the states

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High Mountain Rescue Unit: Guardians of Adventure

Courtesy of

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LIP Interactive Visitors Map

Dear LIP readers,

we created our own interactive map where LIP readers and forum members can tell us and others where they are from.

Please take a minute or two and put your location on that map. Our worldwide community will appreciate it.

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Building resilience through street soccer in Peru

(by Anna Azaryeva, UNICEF)

For the 2006 FIFA World Cup, UNICEF and FIFA are campaigning to ensure a more peaceful world for children. This is a profile of one of Team UNICEF's star players.

On a gloomy Thursday afternoon after classes end, Rocio Vanessa Bello Bautista, 15, has no time to waste. She is on her way to a local playground in Villa El Salvador, Peru, to start a soccer match.

“I play soccer every day after school,” says Rocio, as she takes a break from the game on a concrete pitch that serves as a soccer field and basketball court. “What do I like about soccer? I like to inspire people, I like to inspire girls, I like to kick and control the ball!”

Villa El Salvador, a sprawling urban settlement, is home to over 300,000 people. In the 1970s, poor migrants were resettled to this desert prairie 19 km from Lima without access to basic services or external support. Poverty and unemployment are still common in the shantytown. Many adults travel to Lima daily in search of jobs, often leaving children on their own.

A safe place to play

Until recently, Rocio and her friends struggled to find a safe place to play sports. In the poorest quarters of Villa El Salvador, the streets were often dominated by gangs fueled by drug and alcohol abuse.

Though impoverished, Villa El Salvador is famous as a model of self-governance. Reclaiming the streets for recreation is one of the community’s key goals.

Deporte y Vida (Sport and Life), the program where Rocio plays soccer, uses sport to promote education and foster a sense of community among children at risk – as well as providing them with a safe play space. Five of these programs exist throughout Peru, working with about 1,400 girls and boys.

For Rocio, soccer is more than a sport; it is an opportunity to make friends and build confidence. “I think that soccer changed my life in a way, made me happier,” she says. “Now I am more open with people. I used to be a very shy and quiet girl.”

Next to the playground where practice and street soccer tournaments are held, there is a room where children rest and do their homework. “When I grow up I would like to become a secretary,” asserts Rocio, “or study to become a tourist guide for those who come to visit Peru.”

Soccer as a pathway to peace

Since the soccer tournaments started, Rocio says, there is not as much violence in Villa El Salvador. “Sport has helped a lot with the street gangs because children become more enthusiastic about sports than violence,” she explains.

Rocio and the other young soccer players do not have uniforms or a large soccer field for training. Instead, street soccer is about the spirit of everyone joining the game. “What I like most about playing as a forward,” she says, “is to pass the ball to other girls, without discriminating against anyone because she does not know how to play or because she doesn’t kick well.”

A team of teenagers from Deporte y Vida will participate in the first Street Soccer World Championship, which runs from 2 to 8 July in Berlin, parallel to the 2006 FIFA World Cup. The young players competing in the games come from social projects in 24 countries that use soccer as a pathway to peace and development.

Rocio’s favorite player is Ronaldinho, and she hopes the team from Brazil wins the World Cup. “When you play soccer, it cheers you up, no matter whether you win or lose,” she says, getting ready to rejoin the match.

Update:
Too bad, Brazil lost in the quarterfinals against France....
However, the Peruvian street soccer selection is doing very well! Today they won 1:0 against the United States today in the tournament played in Berlin, Germany, and qualified for the second round.
Tomorrow the team will face Paraguay and a win in this match guarantees first place in their group.
It was the third victory for the Peruvians.


(photos provided by UNICEF)

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The Great Inca Trail Guide of the Qhapaq Ñan

(by Juan Carlos Rufasto Garrido, APREC)

The Guide to Ancient Paths is one of a series of collectible guides designed within the context of the “El Capac Ñan en Cajamarca” project by the 'Civil Association for the Rescue of the Eco-System in Cajamarco (APREC).

One of APREC’s objectives is to promote and develop a new set of tourist destinations, by designing hiking circuits, training the local population and improving the infrastructure that currently exists.  In this way, the intention is to bring about a new understanding of the historical value of the paths that Peru's ancestors walked--paths that have survived to the present day, but that are in constant danger of being lost and forgotten forever as more and more new roads and highways are built.

This guide hopes to demonstrate the immense historical importance that the ancient paths have for the development of Cajamarca, and to lead the way to a rediscovery of this region that is rich in culture, history and natural beauty of this region.

The Qhapaq Ñan

The complex network of trails known as the ‘Capac Ñan,’ which means ‘Great Path’ in Quechua, was a monumental project undertaken by the Incas.  In some parts of Peru the network was known as the ‘Inca Ñan’ or Inca Trail.  Later, Spanish chroniclers referred to it as “The Royal Roads of the Incas.”

At the peak of its expansion, this most important of all Pre-Columbian transportation systems in the New World consisted of more than 30,000 kilometers of perfectly constructed trails, the majority of which were paved in stone.  Part of the ingeniousness of its design resides in the fact that rather than use a single model throughout, the paths adapted to the topography of each zone.  The quality of its construction demonstrates the extent to which its architects and engineers meant it to last quite literally forever.

The width of the trails varies, in some cases reaching more than fifteen meters across, in others reduced to a width of a meter and a half as the paths skirt ravines and cliff sides.  At strategic points along the trail are buildings known as ‘tampus’ or lodges;  often they occur at intervals of approximately twenty kilometers, though at times they are more widely or more closely spaced, as required by the level of difficulty of a given stretch of trail.  The lodges served both as shelter for travelers and as storage facilities for food and clothing.

The Capac Ñan was the perhaps the element most responsible for the rapid expansion of Tawantinsuyo, and for the subsequent development of the Inca empire, which at its height comprised northern Argentina, northern Chile, all of present-day Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador, and the southern part of Colombia.

The Qhapaq Ñan in Cajamarca

The Capac Ñan of the northern sector of the Incan Empire, known as Chinchaysuyo, passes through the department of Cajamarca longitudinally, with secondary trails crossing transversally. These ancient trails provided access to nearly all of present-day Cajamarca. The Great Path runs from the town of Huamachuco in the south towards Cajabamba, passes through Cauday, drops down to the Crisnejas River, pushes back up along the Inca Rise to Chancay, and from there runs through Ichocán, San Marcos, and Namora; it then borders Lake Sulluscocha, passing through the region of Shaullo and finally reaching the historic Inca Baths. From there, the trail runs directly to the city of Cajamarca, continues on to Rumichaca in the district of Porcón, and from there heads toward Ingatambo in San Pablo, pushes to the northeast in the direction of Chancay Baños in Santa Cruz, then passes through the Pucará region before crossing the Huancabamba River valley several times, at last reaching Caxas and Ayabaca in the department of Piura.

Remains of Inca trails can also be found between Cajamarca and Hualgayoc, and between Bambamarca to Celendín, heading in the direction of Chachapoyas. In addition, there is a transverse trail that begins in Huancabamba in the department of Piura, and passes through San Ignacio and Jaén in Cajamarca, continuing in the direction of Kuelap in Chachapoyas. Still other trails unite Cajamarca with the coast in two directions: first, down the Chicama Valley in the department of La Libertad; and second, down the Jequetepeque Valley towards Lambayeque.

GUIDE TO ANCIENT PATHS, DESCRIPTION OF CONTENT AND MAPS

For tourists who come to Cajamarca, APREC has designed four main hiking loops along the main trails of the Capac Ñan and the secondary paths that cross it. Along the way, hikers will have the opportunity to see and appreciate a wide variety of the region's most valuable cultural and natural resources.

In addition to a map of the department of Cajamarca, drawn to scale, the Guide to Ancient Paths offers highly detailed maps for the four hiking loops, each with its corresponding legend containing general information about the trail’s level of difficulty, places to camp, research areas, paved and unpaved roads, local villages, and interesting details about the ancient paths themselves.

Moreover, each route is carefully described in terms of the most interesting places to stop along the way, scenic outlooks of interest to photographers, the time required for each hike, the distances covered, and altitudes reached. UTM coordinates are also indicated where relevant. Thus, the guide provides all the information necessary to give the reader a clear understanding of the different regions involved and the basic services available each step of the way.

for more information please contact:

Lic. Juan Carlos Rufasto Garrido
Asesor de Prensa y Comunicaciones
Asociación Civil para el Rescate del Ecosistema de Cajamarca - APREC
Hotel Spa Laguna Seca
Av. Manco Cápac Nª 1098 , Baños del Inca - Cajamarca
076 - 594600 (anexo 318 - 360)
076 - 9780290
RPM 51217
www.aprec.org
www.lagunaseca.com.pe

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Eye-Witness Report: FTA protests in Arequipa

(by Micah Cantley, Arequipa)

Nothing like a little Ché to get you in the mood for some anticucho, but tonight the Aji turned out to have more strength than the “Chévistas” and “Humalistas.” A meager group, a few hundred protesters, made their way through the streets of downtown Arequipa, upset over yesterday’s signing of the TLC with the United States. Still, the protesters did what they do best- blocked traffic and made some noise. Led by banners of Che, many in the crowd carried signs visualizing their malcontent for the United States, while still others waved rainbow colored flags, shouted their cries of dissent, or simply kept the ranks and made their presence known.

On the 4th floor of the Hotel Viza on Calle Peral for an evening of American socializing and Peruvian cuisine, our pre-dinner speaker was practically drowned out by the loud-speakers and chanting of the protesters below. Forceful and impressive to the 50 or so Americans in town for the week, Ariquipeñans likely didn’t even notice, unless of course they were re-routed due to the disruption of the protesters.

While the protest itself wasn’t overly impressive, what was impressive was the almost negligible size of it all. Consider that Ollanta garnered roughly 50% of the vote in Arequipa in first round elections, and then ran away with 65% in the second round the lack of supporters who turned out on his “national day of protest” is surprising, indeed.

While Ollanta has lost his place as the official head of UPP, along with the verbal support of the coca farmers and other pre-election compañeros, it appears he’s also losing ground with the people, and only three weeks after the elections. While appearances can be deceiving, Ollanta seems to not even be supporting himself, choosing not attend the protest against the Congress in Lima yesterday, which he called for. One has to wonder if he would have been so flakey had he won the presidency. For a man who constantly reminds President-elect Alan Garcia and the current and newly elected APRA members of congress to stand by their campaign promises, he seems to be coming up short with his follow-thru.

A source tells me that today will reveal the true strength of the Arequipeñan Humalistas as they take to the streets and wreak true havoc. My source also assures me the Humalistas will bring a coup by the end of the year. However, in the name of journalism and fair reporting all should know my “source” is one of my secondary students, not yet even old enough to vote. He insists the news I read and share with him of Ollanta’s struggles is made up of lies and half-truths of the American media, regardless of the fact that it all comes from Peruvian news agencies.

For all intents and purposes it would seem as though a large number of Humalista’s fall into the same demographics as my “source.” Perhaps the reason for the lack of protesters in Arequipa can be blamed on the parents not allowing their children to participate…

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Peru goes 'high-tech' to protect alpacas

An association of alpaca farmers is planting microchips in the ears of their alpaca to protect them from smugglers. I recently read that an alpaca in the US goes for roughly $28,000, so yes, I can see why smuggling may be an issue, and I can vouch that alpaca wool makes extremely soft, and nice, sweaters and scarves. But I’m still not sure how this will help most Peruvian alpaca farmers.

The association behind the microchips is talking with Peru's neighbors on how they can retrieve identified, smuggled alpacas, and are considering satellite tracking as an option to combat smuggling. This could take the microchips behind just creating a genetic database. Maybe this association will find the funding to further this project, but I have a feeling that many small time alpaca farmers will continue to rely on the trusted use of different colors of yarn earrings to tell their flock from their neighbors – at least for a few more years.

(by Hannah Hennessy, BBC)

Scraping a living in this part of Peru is difficult at the best of times. For thousands of communities, the sole means of survival is raising alpacas for their valuable wool.

But that survival is threatened by the trafficking of thousands of the best animals across the border to neighbouring Bolivia or Chile every year.

From there, they are sent to countries as far afield as Australia and the United States, where they are sold for their wool or as pets and can fetch thousands and thousands of dollars.

For many poor Peruvian farmers, it's a simple choice: sell an alpaca with high quality wool at home for a couple of hundred dollars if they are lucky or take it across the border, where it could fetch twice that.

Gene pool

So many alpacas with high quality wool are slipping across the border that the genetic pool is being watered down and the wool produced in Peru is becoming less valuable.

Authorities and alpaca experts say the most valuable animals have to stay in Peru and they fear that if nothing is done to prevent this, the world's largest alpaca industry could collapse.

Now they have come up with a modern answer for a world where time often seems to stand still.

The farmers, some of whom wear traditional bright embroidered clothes, often live in mud-brick houses with straw roofs. Children in car-tyre sandals huddle in doorways protecting themselves from the stinging wind and bright sun.

The roads here are barely passable even in the dry season.

Into this environment, Peruvian authorities have brought up-to-the-minute technology - microchips, which they are inserting into the ears of the finest alpacas to help keep track of their whereabouts.

"The main problem is contraband and that is directly affecting the producers. This is why we need to put microchips in these animals and this should allow us to control the exit of these animals at the border, and identify those that are registered and not allowed to leave Peru," said Fabiola Munoz, the general secretary of the Ministry of Agriculture.

In the past, farmers have taken their animals to special commercial zones at the border, where the trade of alpacas has remained unchecked. Now, these areas will be fitted with the micro-chip scanners which can read the microchips.

Authorities know this won't provide an immediate end to the problem. The borders remain porous and the price of the micro-chips and the scanners is high.

The Ministry of Agriculture says authorities are working with farmers to convince them of the long-term benefits of keeping their higher quality animals.

Ancient habits

This is particularly important in the region of Puno, in southern Peru, which has 1.6 million alpacas, more than anywhere else in the country. The indigenous farmers who live here, at around 14,000 feet (4,270 metres) above sea level, are some of Peru's poorest.

They speak Quechua and not the Spanish of the government and have been farming alpacas since the time of the Incas, who gave them their language.

Jose Luis Apaza is head of production at Rural Allianza, the largest alpaca rearing company in Peru.

"At heights like this, very little else prospers. You can't really raise sheep or cows, but we have been raising alpacas since the time of the Incas. This is the only animal that can provide us with a source of income."

Companies like Rural Allianza can look to the future, because they have enough income for the present. But for individual farmers who live a hand-to-mouth existence, the reality is very different.

Juan Francisco calls out in Quechua to his 60 or so animals as he hustles them through the brush, underneath a searing sun. He looks about 70, but is probably only about 50. His features have been wizened by the harsh climate and a life that earns him and his family about $80 a month.

He doesn't speak Spanish and doesn't seem interested in my attempts to ask him about genetically improved animals.

It's difficult to see how the government in far away Lima will be able to convince people like him of the benefits of the micro-chips. He belongs to a world of ancient customs where modern technology is regarded with suspicion.

read also today's article on CNN.com:

Peru ritual is a shear delight

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A false and damaging dichotomy

(by our new political analyst and columnist Maxwell A. Cameron)

A backlash against free market orthodoxy is gaining momentum in Latin America. As voters in the region turn against the status quo, some are looking for radical change while others are seeking more modest reforms.

Alan García Pérez narrowly won the run-off election in Peru on June 4 by offering a programme of "responsible change." His competitor, the nationalist Ollanta Humala Tasso, promised a more radical transformation. The candidate most closely associated with the existing economic orthodoxy, Lourdes Flores Nano, did not even make it into the run-off.

A similar race is heating up in Mexico, where voters will choose their next president on July 2. Andrés Manuel López Obrador, candidate of the Party of the Democratic Revolution (PRD) is neck and neck with the candidate of the incumbent National Action party (PAN), Felipe Calderón Hinojosa. Polls show the two candidates in a technical tie, with López Obrador gaining on his rival.

Calderón has tried to distance himself from incumbent president, Vicente Fox, by calling himself a "disobedient son" while portraying López Obrador as a dangerous radical and a protege of Venezuela's Hugo Chávez. López Obrador denies any connection with Chávez, and has lashed back at Calderón with allegations of nepotism, corruption, and influence-peddling.

A broader scan of the region reveals a lot of diversity within the much-debated shift to the left. In countries including Chile and Uruguay, where democracy is strong, political parties are well organised and corruption is minimal, moderate socialists are advancing progressive social policy agendas.

After a rocky start in her first 100 days in office, Chile's president, Michelle Bachelet, has made 36 specific promises in areas such as education, healthcare, public security, pensions and labour rights. She redoubled her commitment to reform after surprisingly militant student protests placed her government on the defensive. Another moderate socialist, Tabaré Vásquez, was elected in Uruguay last year on promises to address poverty and unemployment.

In the Andean region, where indigenous peoples have suffered centuries of exclusion and discrimination, where party systems are fragmented and corruption is rife, the backlash against economic orthodoxy has resulted in more radical nationalist and populist movements.

On May Day, Bolivia's president, Evo Morales, fulfilled a major campaign promise by announcing the nationalisation of the gas and oil industry in Bolivia. He has also moved quickly to redistribute land belonging to the state. A national development strategy has been unveiled that seeks to dismantle the legacies of colonialism and the effects of neoliberal policies in recent decades. A major goal of the new government is to recognise Bolivia's multicultural society in law and in the constitution, and to that end a constituent assembly has been convened.

A growing chorus of observers and policymakers, including the Miami Herald columnist Andres Oppenheimer, The Economist, Mexico's former minister of foreign affairs, Jorge Castañeda, and the US secretary of state, Condoleezza Rice, has argued or assumed that there are "two lefts" in Latin America, one social democratic and the other radical populist.

These labels are value-laden; in the words of Castañeda, there is a "right left" and a "wrong left." This tendentious, simplistic, and misleading dichotomy is a hindrance to understanding both the backlash against economic orthodoxy and the various leftwing forces capitalising on it.

There are three good reasons for rejecting the right/wrong left shibboleth. First, the left typically reflects the society in which it emerges; one might as well argue there are right and wrong countries. Second, not all rights and wrongs come in coherent packages. Leftwing movements and parties often do some things wrong and some things right. Third, dichotomising the left leads to mistaken expectations about international alignments and conflicts. In general, radical postures disguise pragmatic intentions.

It is easier to be a moderate social democrat in stable and ethnically homogeneous countries such as Chile or Uruguay than in politically unstable and ethnically divided countries such as Ecuador, Bolivia, or Peru. The constitutional separation of powers, the rule of law, and property rules evolve in diverse ways under different historical and structural conditions.

Evo Morales' decision to nationalise Bolivia's oil and gas industry may be a threat to private property and an economic error - it is probably unwise to nationalise an industry when the principal investor, in this case Brazil, is also the nation's main customer - but the Bolivian leader is pursuing a vision of the national interest that is defensible on both constitutional and democratic grounds.

What is right on one policy dimension may be wrong on another. Chávez, with the unwitting assistance of a largely self-seeking and incompetent opposition, has created a political system with few real checks and balances. He has also attempted to provide basic health and educational services to people who were neglected under the corrupt power-sharing arrangement known as the pact of Punto Fijo (1961-1998).

Chávez should be neither deified nor demonized. He earns plaudits for his commitment to the poor, but, with the supreme court stacked, legislative elections uncontested by the opposition and the president rattling his sabre at the media, it remains unclear whether the Bolivarian revolution can secure for itself a viable political and constitutional framework in which fundamental rights and freedoms are guaranteed. Indeed, it is doubtful whether Venezuela will be able to hold competitive, transparent and fair elections at the end of this year.

Most of the leftwing movements and parties in the Latin American region fall far short of any ideal of social democracy or radical populism. Castañeda has difficulty deciding whether Alan García is part of the "right" or the "wrong" left. García's APRA party, clearly "springs from the great Latin American populist tradition," says Castañeda, but "Chavez's unabashed meddling in the Peruvian elections may have so alienated Alan García that he actually becomes a European-style social democrat."

As a causal argument, this is preposterous. Even if we leave aside the fact that García provoked and benefited from Chávez's interference in the Peruvian election, the idea that the dispute will have a lasting effect on García's political orientation is ludicrous. The main reason why García will not govern like a European social democrat is that Peru is not a European country. García's main challenge is to overcome barriers to the inclusion of indigenous peoples in Peru's apartheid-style society, not negotiate a European-style class compromise.

The absurdities inherent in the right/wrong left dichotomy are exposed when observers use such crude stereotypes to explain international alignments or conflicts. For those who imagine a "serpent" stretching from Havana through Caracas to La Paz, Evo Morales's radicalism is a product of the dark machinations of Fidel Castro and Hugo Chávez.

Morales, however, is nobody's puppet. In last week's summit of presidents from the Andean Community of Nations, he proved to be a consummate pragmatist. Not only did he reject Chávez's option of pulling out of the Andean Community, he used his leadership to support closer relations with the European Union and to push for an extension of trade preferences and drug cooperation with the US. Bolivia's behaviour was neither strident nor nostalgic, but perfectly consistent with national interests.

The presumption that there will be a growing rift between Latin America's radical populists and responsible social democrats is belied by Brazil's measured response to the Bolivian nationalisation of oil and gas, as well as the courteous diplomatic relations between Morales and Bachelet.

Brazil may be pleased that Chávez's meddling in the Peruvian election backfired and helped García. At the same time, Brazil is leaning toward backing Venezuela's bid for a seat on the United Nations Security Council. Tensions between South American countries may intensify, but they are likely to have more to do with national interests than ideological divisions between the so-called modern and archaic lefts.

There is a familiar ring to the distinction between the modern versus archaic lefts. Neoliberal reformers also saw themselves as imposing modernity on archaic societies. In their view, the "right policies" (the so-called Washington consensus, involving privatisation, deregulation, free trade, and the promotion of foreign investment) had to replace the "wrong policies" (protectionism, state ownership, subsidies, regulation of foreign investment). Those who resisted getting the policies right - peasants, unions, import-substituting industries, economists who had not read the "right" textbooks - belonged to the retrograde past. Arrogance and insensitivity got in the way of building sustainable and inclusive political coalitions.

How unfortunate, and how ironic, it would be for the left to make the same mistake.

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Peruvian Orchids in Danger

(text and photos by Benjamin Collantes)

"In 1961 a scientific trip was made between Carpish and Tingo Maria. More than 250 species of orchid were collected along remote trails, but small, undeveloped bulbs were left untouched. The trip was repeated in 1975, when it was discovered that 75% of the species had disappeared. In 1995, less than 30 species of orchid were up-rooted by private collectors. Our children and theirs will unfortunately have to rely on photos to see the beauty of the Peruvian orchid, due to uncontrolable pilfering." - David E. Bennett Jr., Rutgers University, Bs. Agr. cum laud

Interest in orchids dates back to ancient times. It was the Greek philosopher Theophrastus who gave this species the name "orchis" (testicle), referring to the base part of the plant (tuberoid) which has the form of a pair of testicles. For this reason aphrodisiac qualities were attributed to the plant.

Orchids were highly appreciated by Pre-Inca cultures as well as by the Inca civilization itself, as is described in ancient records.

According to botanists, the orchid family is the most evolved of all plant groups. Orchids roots are covered by a special white-colored tissue of spongy texture called the velamen, which enables the absorption of water and nutrients. Leaves are usually of a leather-like texture. Another characteristic is the pseudo-bulb, but it may be absent in other genus.

Flower Morphology

Orchids contain three sepals and three petals. One petal is different from the other two and is called the labellum or lip. The stamen and the styles are fused, forming a structure usually elongated called the column, where at the extreme end both male and female parts are found (the anther and the stigma respectively).

Another peculiarity of orchids is that they do not produce pollen per se but rather pollinia which are small and compact groups in even numbers: 2, 4, 8 of pollen (usually oval and hard as grains of rice). These are often accompanied by appendages (stipe and viscidium). The combination of all of these is known as the pollinarium. In some cases, one of the appendages is missing.

The viscidium is a specialized structure, at the tip of the pollinarium, and is covered with a sticky substance intended to adhere to the body of the pollinator insect.

The stigmatic cavity of the orchid is formed under the anther.This cavity is covered with a very adhesive substance to successfully retain the pollinium.

Shapes, Sizes and Colors

The most fascinating aspect of the orchid is its flower, characterized by amazing shapes, sizes and colors. From their appearance we find similarities with people, animals, birds and insects. Regarding size, there are flowers ranging from two millimeters such as the Trizeuxis falcata, up to the 70 centimeters Phragmipedium caudatum, the largest flower in the species.

Pollination is usually performed by bees, flies, butterflies and certain birds. Some insects search for nectar, some for solid food while others seek oils and perfumes.

In certain species of the Maxillaria genus, a powder-like substance is formed on the surface of the lip labellum similar to pollen (pseudo-pollen) which is used by bees as food. The male Euglossini bee seeks out the orchid flower to bask in its scent, with which they
attract females. These substances are known as pheromones (sexual perfumes). Apparently, for mutual benefit from these visits, orchids have developed their sexual structures to function with pollinator agents. These are pollinating mechanisms rather than tricks.

Thanks to this mechanism, nearly 15 spots have been reported to catch the pollinarium, through the viscidium. Once the pollinium has adhered to the stigma by means of the pollinator, the formation of seeds begins. From this moment, perfume production starts decreasing and sepals and petals starts to wither slowly. They do not fall off, but instead, remain until all the seeds disappear. Therefore, in some cases remnants of flowers have enabled the identification of the species.

The significant change is the development of the ovary that progressively increases in size until becoming a large capsule.

The process of seed formation may take four to eight months. The seeds are very small (four million have been found in a single mature capsule which is usually elongated and thick in the middle). Once the seed formation period has ended, the ovary opens in three sutures, releasing seeds which then disperse in the air. The seeds, not having sufficient nutrient reserves, need to complete the process of symbiosis with microscopic fungi (such as the Tullasnella and Thanatephorus, among others) which provide them with proteins and reserve substances. Therefore, if the seeds fall in places where fungi exists, they can develop into new plants. A great diversity of aromas is produced, one of the most famous being from the Vanilla genus, from which vanilla is extracted for use in cooking.

There are other exquisite and exotic aromas such as Gongora and Cycnoches as well as unpleasant aromas such as urine or rotten fish which eminate from the Pleurothallis aphthosa.

Perfume production is not constant since some species bear aromas during the morning, others in the afternoon and others at night, with the purpose of attracting their respective pollinators.

The colors are also very impressive: from white to dark purple although not black. In Peru, the existence of the black orchid has never been confirmed.

Some species are also endemic: Masdevallia davisii in Cusco, Cattleya rex in San Martín, Huntleya vargasii in Junín, etc. Some species are widely distributed and can be found in four or five departments.

"Orchid habits," refers to growth patterns in nature, the most common being epiphytes (species that grow on trees or bushes), litophytes (growth on rocky surfaces, with or without lichens and mosses), ground (species that grow at ground level) and saprophyte (species that grow at ground level with abundant organic matter in a state of decomposition).

The altitude level for growth ranges from 100 to 4,800 meters above sea level explaining the fact that there are orchids for warm and cold climates.

Regarding humidity, there are species for very dry climates (xerophytes) and those for medium and very humid ones.

Diversity

According to studies carried out by David Bennett Jr. B.Sc. and Eric Christenson, Ph.D., Peru is home to 3,000 orchid species, found from Tumbes to Puno. The greatest diversity of species is found in the High Amazon Jungle located between 500 and 3,600 m.a.s.l. The fewest variety of orchids is found in the Lower Amazon Jungle (at approximate 300 m.a.s.l.) and the areas of the Highlands (Sierra Mountains) between 2,600 and 3,600 m.a.s.l. This estimate is quite realistic in spite of the limited studies performed, the lack of financial resources and support from the government and the violation of the scarce legal provisions applicable to environmental protection. Nevertheless, what is quite captivating in spite of this is the fact that more and more species are being discovered, thanks to the work of certain individuals who, with with little or no financial backing, explore and collect orchids in high risk locations. Due to these isolated efforts, Peru could surpass in number, the native species found in Colombia and Ecuador which are known as the South American countries with the most orchids. In these two countries numerous studies have been made and adequate legal provisions exist for the protection of natural resources. Other factors supporting the protection of orchids is the excellent work carried out by their respective environmental departments, "the counterpart of which in Peru would be the National Institute of Natural Resources (INRENA) which could not resolve the Luccetti case, and the National Environmental Board (CONAM) whose efficiency has not yet been demonstrated."3 INRENA does not perform its work efficiently because it does not have specialized personnel, nor technological or other valuable resources appropriate for adequate control of orchids exportation.

The Lima Orchid

In Lima species like the Chloraea undulata, Aa mathewsii and Porphyrostachys pilifera (the Little Peruvian) have been catalogued. The hills surrounding the City of Lima are examples of the lower growth level of the Chloraea undulata. This orchid of Lima was found on the hills of Pampa de Amancaes, in the District of Rímac and the Cerro El Augustino in the year 1954 according to a report by Ramón Ferreyra of the San Marcos National University. It was also found at Lomas de Lachay, according to a report from Augusto Weberbauer.

At present, the Chloraea undulata no longer grows in the places mentioned above, due to the tremendous urban sprawl and abundance of goat pastures. This species still survives, however, but is not easy to find.

In Tumbes and Piura

In the Dry Forest of Tumbes and Piura, a particularly arid region, one finds the most well known orchid often used for bouquets at graduation parties: Cattleya maxima. This large, violet colored flower with a faint aroma shares its habitat with the Oncidium onustum, Trichocentrum tigrinum, Lockartia schunkei, Cynoches lehmannii and others. These species are considered xerophytes since they grow in very arid areas, exposed to strong solar rays.

Podocarpus Forests in Cajamarca

The High Amazon Jungle in Cajamarca is known for the Podocarpus Forest, the region with the highest number of orchids. Many are quite exotic varieties such as the Masdevallia setacea, Masdevallia glandulosa and Lycaste denningiana.

Land of the Masdevallias

The forests in the Department of Amazonas have a greater diversity of orchids than Cajamarca, especially in the Masdevallia genus, which are very attractive not only for their morphology, but also for the color of their sepals. These end tips called "caudas" (tails) may be short, medium or long with small petals. Masdevallia decumana, Masdevallia amabilis, Masdevallia mezae and Masdevallia replicata are some of the most representative species.

Land of Orchids

The watershed of the Mayo River (department of San Martín) is known as the Land of Orchids, a name that could also apply to the jungle of Junín. There are a great number of genera such as the Anguloa, Brassia, Catasetum, Cattleya, Bollea, Coryanthes, Lycaste, Masdevallia and many more.

The most representative is the Cattleya rex, locally known as the "golondrina" (swallow). Another popular orchid species of this zone is the Slipper orchid which has four species: Phragmipedium wallisii (queen slipper), Phragmipedium boisserianum (king slipper), Phragmipedium pearcei (boy slipper) and the most famous, Phragmipedium besseae (red slipper).

Loreto - Ucayali Circuit

In these regions of the Lower Amazon Jungle, there is not much diversity. The great attraction is the species of the genus Coryanthes, Gongora, Maxillaria, Mormodes, Cycnoches and Catasetum.

Huánuco and the Sleeping Beauty

A very important discovery of orchid species took place in the forest of Tingo María. Recently new species have been identified, one named the Lycaste jarae, in honor of Enrique Jara, a cultivator from that town. Other species like the Ackermania, Catasetum, Góngora, Elleanthus and Epidendrum can be found.

Huascarán National Park and Surrounding Areas

The department of Ancash has high Andean species that have been studied in Huascarán National Park and other regions. One of the most representative species is the Masdevallia amabilis, which grows on rocky mountain slopes and is known by its Quechua name "waqanku." Its flower is a bright fuchsia, although some varieties are a very pure white. Other genera exist as well: Aa, Altensteinia, Epidendrum, Stelis and Trichoceros. All are typical of those growing in cold climates.

The Valley of Orchids

The beautiful Valley of Chanchamayo (department of Junín) could well be called the Valley of Orchids. Due to its high level of depredation, this region requires immediate protected area status, like the one proposed -but not put into practice- for the giant cedar forest in Pampa Hermosa, located between San Ramón and La Merced, an area which is also home to important archeological remains. This valley is host to the Masdevallia ayabacana, the largest and strongest of the genus, reaching 30 centimeters in length and 2 in width. Also present is the Psychopsis sanderae, known as the famous Royal butterfly, a rare endemic species which can measure up to 18 centimeters with a delicate scent, and also the Huntleya vargasii (the bright Star of David). The majority of genera are found in this great valley. Some believe that Brahma, the Supreme Being that created life and nature, meditated here. It is mind-boggling to imagine what exists on the mountain ranges of San Matías and El Sira. Scientific expeditions to these areas are warrented as a new species has been reported: the Stigmatorthos peruviana Chase and Bennett.

Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary

The estimates for diversity within the Sanctuary reach 200 of the described species. New species are discovered from time to time like the Ponthieva sp. nov. (Bennett and Christenson), discovered in May l998, which obliges us to carry out more and more studies in this region. One of the most fascinating crossroads of the Ollantaytambo-Machu Picchu Inca Trail is the section from Phuyupatamarca-Intipunku, which is a region of cloud forests from 3,600 to 2,500 m.a.s.l. The explorer will encounter virgin forests with abundant epiphytes and bushes, but one must sharpen his or her vision to distinguish between orchids to the right and left of the trail. The most frequent genera are: Aa, Epidendrum, Lycaste, Masdevallia, Maxillaria, Oncidium, Odontoglosum, Phragmipedium and the Sobralia, the most spectacular being the Masdevallia veitchiana (waqanki, in Quichua). But all this diversity has been greatly diminished and in the worst of cases has disappeared as a consequence of the ten or more fires which took place in the surroundings of the archeological site of Machu Picchu, most damaging being the August 30, 1997 blaze which destroyed more than 1,000 hectares of primarily virgin forest.

Manu and the Tambopata Reserve

Orchid studies from Manu and the Tambopata Reserve do not show significant diversity but do include some interesting species of the genera Catasetum, Chauvardia, Mormodes, Oncidium and Psychopsis. Many people believe that national reserves and parks which include many orchids species and therefore all are protected. The reality is quite different; the diversity reported in these regions is scarce and furthermore, the "protected status" in many cases is overshadowed by deplorable and inneficient maintainance conditions.

Arequipa and Colca

On the route towards the Colca Valley, there is only one species of the genus Myrosmodes, which is characteristic of very cold altitudes (near 4,200 m.a.s.l.) and grows along the ground, protected by pastures. This genus has adapted perfectly to its environment, developing short, very thick leaves and succulent roots reaching deep into the ground. It is also found in high elevations in the Moquegua and Tacna departments.

From the Altiplano to the Jungle

It's hard to imagine that orchids grow in the department of Puno because of the brutal climate, yet it provides a home for a great number of species. In 1995 our expedition was able to catalogue many genera here as well as discovering wider habitat ranges. These forest regions have been impacted by migrating farmers from the Altiplano and other regions, causing the deforestation of thousands of hectares of primary forest. This has occurred to such an extent that there are many areas which look like high barren plateaus with remains of derelict forests.

Conservation: a Dead Word in Peru

The deforestation rate is 300,000 hectares per year. Orchids (as is all flora and fauna) are highly effected by this threat as their seeds cannot find sufficient trees to grow on.

The situation is aggravated by the pilfering of wild orchids, supplying nurseries in Piura, Amazonas, San Martín, Huánuco, Loreto, Junín and Lima.

It is important to mention that orchids coming from depredation usually have certain colonies of lichens, mosses, insect bites and pricks adhered to their roots, pseudo-bulbs and leaves. Pursuant to the legal provisions currently in force, the exportation of orchids is permitted, provided they have been reproduced in nurseries or laboratories (in vitro). The lack of control in this case has resulted in the nonexistence of propagation in nurseries that export. In the illicit traffic of Peruvian orchids a well known practice is to wash and prepare the plants to give the appearance that they have been cultivated and reproduced in nurseries. They are then presented to INRENA by the exporter for inspection. How do they manage to pass the inspection? INRENA should be held accountable.

The other way of illegally exporting orchids abroad, is the "cultural exchange" method. The applicable legal provisions indicate that the plants exiting the country for research purposes must be the same ones that return. The law also states that the plants must be in the flowering stage. Once these plants leave the country they never are returned, but replaced with different ones, usually hybrids.

Regarding this matter, we wish to congratulate the excellent work carried out by the National Service of Agricultural Health (SENASA) which recently discovered a shipment from the United States and stopped for the first time in Peru the illegal transport of orchids. Another problem is the sub-valuation of orchids. Exporters present the Peruvian authorities with a species exportation list valuing them at US$1-US$3 each. The same exporter, now in another country, has revalued his merchandise ten to thirty times higher than presented in Peru. This is a clear case of tax evasion, and a great loss of capital that could be used to finance conservation projects.

Faced with this great conservation problem, the only solution would seem to be that of biotechnology with in vitro cultivation of orchid seeds. This way thousands of plants could be produced and an orchid germoplasm bank could be established.

Conserving this resource is everyone's responsibility. We should be very concerned by the lack of a sole entity directly responsible for the preservation of Peru's orchids. Many share this commitment, such as the Ministry of Agriculture (INRENA), CONAM, INDECOPI, PROMPERU and the Ministry of Industry and Tourism, unfortunately this responsibility is only in theory and not taken seriously, which makes it extremely difficult to adequatly manage the conservation of Peruvian orchids.

If there is no change in policy, our children might never have chance to to see orchids flourishing in their natural environment?

also read "The Orchid Hunter: Hoping to save Peru's cloud forest" (Fort Worth Star-Telegram)

1. David E. Bennett Jr., B.Sc., is a research associate with the San Marcos National University (Lima, Peru)
2. Eric A. Christenson, Ph.D., is a research associate with the Botanical Garden of New York, (United States of America).
3. Caretas, October l, l998, No. 1536, page l7.

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