Living in Peru : your everyday companion

The experience all began with an invitation from a friend who asked if I would like swim with some sea lions and tour the islands off the coast of Callao by boat. I, being an adventurist and an avid water lover, gladly accepted this invitation. In reality, this was something I had wanted to do for awhile.

A group of six of us set off at about 10 am from La Punta Yacht Club in Callao, Lima. Our Captain, Eugenio Oliveira, who sails a 30 foot sail boat named the Mardulce, greeted us with a big smile as we approached his vessel by way of a smaller shuttle boat. We were invited aboard, settled in, the anchor was raised and off we headed to the islands. Right from the start, Eugenio showed through his charisma and his great sense of humor, that the sea and these tours were what he loved to do best.
 

As we made our way out of port we were briefed by the Captain about or journey. He told us we would be touring San Lorenzo Island, El Fronton Island, and Palomino Island, which is home to the sea lions. In addition we sailed near the islands of Viuda with its rock formation resembling an elephant and the Isla Altaje which looks like a sea lion in the water. We passed of number of small wooden fishing boats on our trip out that were anchored, some with nobody in them. They were diving for shellfish. It was an eerie sight.

 
The port got smaller as we headed out to sea. The first site was we came across was the Naval base on the shore of San Lorenzo, the biggest of the islands. Next came the island of el Frontón where the ruins of a jail that used to house inmates back during the wars with Chile could still be seen. We rounded a bend and were greeted by the open sea as we headed to Palomino Island. A number of playful sea lions were soon spotted playing in the water. As we approached Palomino Island you could hear a yammering, almost chatter-like sound. This was the thousands of sea lions soaking up the sun on the island and making their typical, almost human-like sounds. This was an amazing sight as we got closer. The half ton animals began to enter the water and follow the boat's wake, almost waiting for us to enter the water and swim with them. After a nice tour of the area, the Captain anchored the boat and a few us put our swim suits on and entered the water.
 

Now I would like to mention that we saw other tour boats in the area with about fifty to a hundred people on them, and they were not able to jump out and swim with the sea lions. I think travelling on the Mardulce was a far more intimate and personal way to experience this area. The Captain was extremely hospitable and patient with us. His boat can take up to ten people, although I think six is a comfortable number of passengers for this vessel. The Mardulce has a bathroom, a cabin which can sleep about four people, a kitchen and a couple kayaks which you are able to use.
 

After the exhilarating swim with the seals, we continued our journey around the back side of San Lorenzo Island and into a cove where we dropped anchor in its calm waters and enjoyed the sun. We were treated to an amazing feast prepared fresh by the Captain of an amazing appetizer, ceviche and a special octopus ceviche. This spot is frequented by many yachters who drop anchor here to enjoy the tranquility of the island and warm water. We were able to see a number of different boats here, swim, kayak and soak up some sun.
 

After the amazing lunch, some beautiful sun, good conversation and laughs, we hoisted anchor, raised sail and started our return to La Punta. The first part of our journey was powered by an outboard motor due to the wind’s direction. The last leg of the trip was powered by Mother Nature at full sail. Of course a few of us headed to the bow, stretched our arms out and shouted, “I'm the king of the world!” There is nothing like the fluttering sound of the sails, a warm ocean breeze on your face and the sound of the boat cutting calmly through the water.
 

When we returned to port, we were treated to a tour of the harbor and the many boats anchored there. Also, offshore there were many freighters anchored waiting to be loaded or unloaded. I love boats and seeing all the different styles and shapes in the port was a great finish to the day.
 

The total trip and experience is usually about six hours. With lunch included and a minimum of six people you can experience this amazing journey for 150 soles (approximately $50 US) a person. If you want to swim with the sea lions and visit this wonderful area, I strongly recommend the Mardulce and Captain Eugenio.

For more information about the cruise, and if you would like to contact Captain Eugenio, please call 429-5171 or 999-092-834.

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Wow! Cool adventure! The story and photos makes one want to  be there!

Captain "Berenjena" Oliveira is a great friend. He's really funny, great seaman and wonderfull Chef on board.

So don't wait more. Call him and reserve your travel to see the lions!!

¡Congratulations my dear  ¡"Berenjena"!  You are doing very well your job in the ocean tourist. I whish you a lot of success in the future  !!!!!!
Regards "punteños"
Lucho Mellet

That trip looks really great!!! What an incredible adventure!!! This is one of the places that every person must visit in Peru. Congratulations to the Captain!!! I will call you soon. Best regards, Jaime Rojas

Definitely i will make reservation to go on this tour with my family, I am going to Lima for Christmas and can't wait to experience this!!

Great story, great place, great boat, great food and for sure the best captain of the world. Congratulations Chocherita.

Nino

Don't need to go 250 kilometers south from Lima to Ballestas Islands to see sea lions as you cannot swim with them, just see them on board.  This is the most fantastic water experience's I've ever had. If you have fins, snorkel and mask, take them with you, you'll be surprised on the large amount of sea lions doing graceful pirouettes under you. Highly recommended round cruise, the Captain knows his job and will make a perfect day divertimento for you.

Bon Voyage!!

Looks great, makes me want to go go on vacation. Can't wait to read about your next adventure! 

Buena Beren!!!
Great boat ''MARDULCE'', I have sailed on it.
Sea lions off Callao are friendly to this boat and to it's Captain who know them very well.
I'm planning my trip back to Callao-Peru to experience again such a wonderfull feeling with the elements and wild seals.
All the best for you Captain Eugenio Oliveira.
Cesar Reyes- Chato.

I'ts seems to me an unforgettable experience swin together with sea lions. I'm glad you enjoy the Peruvian biodiversity. Also I recommend to give a walk along Oxapampa or Chanchamayo's zone. Two so different climates but both are amazing.

LOS ANGELES - CALIFORNIA - DIC 2009

DESDE AKI LOS MEJORES DESEOS Y LAS MAS BRILLANTES FELICITACIONES PARA EL CHOCHE Y MAR DULCE.

CONGRATULATIONS GODFATHER! - I ALWAYS KNEW THAT YOU AND YOUR SERVICES ARE THE BEST IN THE MARKET! - AWESOME! I'M SO PROUD TO BE PART OF THAT FROM THE BEGINNING, SO MANY GRATEFUL FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART EXPERIENCES WITH YA BOTH! LOVE YOU SO MUCH...

V.V

I’ve been part of that great experience!!! It’s a really good choice for adventure, sea and friends! Captain Berenjena is the best!!

Sorry to be the party-crasher!

The activity of swimming with the sea-lions at Palomino is NOT regulated and NOT sustainable. It contains many risks both for the people bobbing around in the water as well as for the sea-lions.

The first law of eco-tourism is that the activity should minimize the effect on the population. All types of eco-tourism is invasive in one way or another, but the damage should be as small as possible. One must ask oneselves - should it at all be allowed to swim with the sea-lions? When doing so it distracts them from finding food or resting which in turn is a reduce their efficiancy to survive or reproduce. Furthermore, when there are new-born pups on the island, as there will be in a couple of months, the sea-lions will be charging into the water barking at the visitors and stampeding their young. How many pups are killed or weakened yearly due to this constant disturbance. If the activity at all should be allowed it should be carried out far away from the colony. This is very invasive tourism at it worse moment.

There are also risk for the swimmers. Great White Shark and Killer Whales have been recorded in Peruvian waters, and although rare - never say never! Hypothermia for those getting in without wet-suit is also not a negligable risk. The biggest threat however come from the sea-lions themselves. They can produce very uggly bites. And tell me how you tackle a 300kg male when you fool around with his females?

Funny I should see this blog post just a few days after I wrote a post on my blog how awful - and many other true nature lovers think this activity is.
If interested here is the link to my post - titled UNTIL JAWS OR WILLY COMES ALONG.
http://www.kolibriexpeditions.com/birdingperu/blog/index.php/untill-jaws-or-willy-comes-along/

One does have to salute the initiative of boats that do not get into this activity and keep their distance and their passengers on board. Try the boat Spondyllus of Cochamama Tours if you like to watch the sea-lion colony (which is still just as impressive) from a safe distance that does not harm the animals in any way or alter their behaviour.
Gunnar Engblom Biologist Manager Director of Kolibri Expeditions Lima Peru

Hi Dunnar,

I think this excellent adventure is not for you.

Maybe it's too much fun for an ecologist.

You should visit all the churches in Lima. They are amazing and you can pray for several hours.

And don't eat cows or chickens!
Remember that they are also sons of God.

Regards,

Jaime Rojas

I say, what a load of rubbish that Gunnar Engblom talks. He has a vested interest - or thinks that he has - in the SeaLion colony as he takes his own tour groups out to see the Humboldt Penguins and it is my guess that he believes the disturbance will affect his own livelyhood. He just wants to scare people away.Sea Lions, like Porpoises and Dolphins, love the company of humans which is why they rush into the sea with such anticipation when boats arrive. To suggest that they are dangerous is preposterous - they are curious, friendly and charming. In my view this is the way foreward in Eco Tourism, friendly contact and interaction with as many species as possible so that they no longer experience fear when they encounter us and vice versa. what a wonderful experience you have had. Captain Eugenio I wish you and your enterprise well.

I think regulation is needed to establish a maximum number of visits per day, a schedule of visits, and a maximum distance from the shore, which can vary according to risk (greater distance in reproductive period).

As for the problem that tourists could be targeted by killer whales or sharks, or even by the seals, that regulation should include: 1-fully information to tourists about the risk involved and what to do if hazard or accident. 2-Out insurance for tourists and workers, and 3-Having means of prevention and emergency boats and on land and 4-Having a detailed plan on how to act in case of danger or injury.

This will be achieved for the safety of the seals, security for visitors, and quality and service reliability.Obviously the costs will be slightly higher, but it's the only way to ensure long-term business (and in parallel, the survival of the colony).

It is important to remember that lack of health security and lack of physical security are, together with the informality of many operators, the main reasons hindering the development of tourism in Peru.

Best,

Juan A. Malo de Molina

ECONIMA, Environmental Consulting

Really cool adventure, Tim! San Lorenzo Island seems to be very interesting.

Yes Gunnar, you have deeply exaggerated the note, do the trip often to Palomino with a 13" Zodiac that could be torn apart by huge sea lions at a snap, on the contrary have a warm welcome while reaching the island every time I go.  Have bathe with them many times at a safe distance from the island as not be invasive, find them always very curious and friendly including huge male ones. If they weren't friendly wouldn't approach to you as they do, you would need to go after them.

They are used seeing small groups of people around, have not heard of nobody being hurt by any one of them including summer which is breeding time, so, this is a fantasious ecological idea of yours to leave the competence standing.  I'm sure if spondylus had a platform, all passengers would be swimming with them. Is not that they are ecological, it's impossible to jump to water being a high catamaran and besides don't carry a single wet suit available for passengers. Yours is pobably conducting ecological tours for grandparents, children and bird watchers.

This is a wonderful trip I also enjoyed immensely.  There are not really many boats that crowd the area and, although there are risks swimming with the sea lions, they are minimal.

Not only are there sea lions to swim with but also the Humbolt Penguins.

Great opportunity to enjoy wildlife and get a multitude of beautiful photographs.

If you do not want to swim with the sea lions, you will still experience immense pleasure watching the sea lions and penguins play.

Finally, you will see many types of sea birds on this trip which your captain will point out.

The area has many small fishermen in small boats.
Ken

This seems to me a really irresponsible invasion of these animals' environment in order to help yourselves to profit. It's a shame that you think that invading their ocean - which, let's face it - humans don't need to do - is a worthwhile activity for 'pleasure'. You clearly don't get eco-tourism - and sooner or later that will come back to haunt you, as more and more people realise who is working to protect species, and who is exploiting them.

The only other person who seemed to disagree with you received some pretty harsh and unfair insults - perhaps you will do that to me too? No worries - the net is public, so let everyone see how you deal with those who dare to challenge your new source of income - I shan't be checking to read it anyway.

First a DISCLAIMER:
I have no commercial interest in Spondylus. I only charter their boat sometimes for our deep sea pelagics.
My clients have little interest in close encounteres with the sea-lions, as they are birdwatchers. Seeing them at a distance is good enough.
We usually don't visit the large colony of Penguins at one of the coves on the Southern Part of San Lorenzo island. I think I have entered the cove only two or three times in all these years. To us it is sufficient to see a few Penguins at Kawinza islets between Palomino and El Fronton.
Humboldt Penguins are extremely weary so it would be irresponsible to bother the larger colony at San Lorenzo if not necessary. In any case we always keep a considerble distance not to disturbe the animals.

Secondly: I think it is worthwhile to post Juan de la Molina's post again, because the formating above made it impossible to read.

Gunnar


    I think regulation is needed to establish a maximum number of visits per day, a schedule of visits, and a maximum distance from the shore, which can vary according to risk (greater distance in reproductive period).

    As for the problem that tourists could be targeted by killer whales or sharks, or even by the seals, that regulation should include: 1-fully information to tourists about the risk involved and what to do if hazard or accident. 2-Out insurance for tourists and workers, and 3-Having means of prevention and emergency boats and on land and 4-Having a detailed plan on how to act in case of danger or injury.

    This will be achieved for the safety of the seals, security for visitors, and quality and service reliability.Obviously the costs will be slightly higher, but it's the only way to ensure long-term business (and in parallel, the survival of the colony).

    It is important to remember that lack of health security and lack of physical security are, together with the informality of many operators, the main reasons hindering the development of tourism in Peru.


    Best,

    Juan A. Malo de Molina

    ECONIMA, Environmental Consulting

Hello,

I have found this trip ( swimming with sea lions) and em enthusiatic about it.

I would like to find some contacts (maybe a email of this gentelman mentoned above)

I am sure that even tourists so enthusiastic as I a will reconsider type of visit if we could find out when it is sae to go near and when not.

However i am also sure that seeing this colony from 1 km is not much of a thrill, when either seing it from 100 meters with large ship or swiming closer to them, is both disrupting for Sea Lions.

ABout danger? i have seen in tn ZOO in _Germany where their Sea lions colony was overpopulated,ZOO opened pool where kids could play with sea lions.. in description it stood that only 2 kids were injures within 10 Years, both were accidents, and not intended actions ( none of them included teath)...

Please mr. Juan A. Malo de Molina Inform us when we should avoid going swimmingwh sea lions, and when its not that much of a tragedy for the colony. I am sure at least few of us might adjust our plans.

Best regards,
Gasper

Guys,

A few of our friends have done this sailing trip and just rave about the captain and the 4 course lunch he prepares. We are hoping to get a group of 6 to do this on March 27 (might be too soon) or April 17. Would you be interested?

Thanks,

Amy

I am glad to say I was able to swim with these friendly creatures. I was off the Point of Callao last November when I found out about this tour. I went on a 30 ft. motor boat, with 3 other people who also swam. It was an experiance of a life time and I plan to go again when I return to Peru on the 18th of April.
    I was in the water with about 150 sea lions that were so close you could reach out and touch their backs as they swam buy. They would also bump against your legs under water. They are a large sea mamal and totaly at home in the water. I felt no fear although they have big teeth and occasionaly totaly surrounded me and were bumping against me from time to time. I could tell they were just courious and playing. At first when I swam toward them they would retreat and keep a 8ft. distance between us. I stopped and I would splash at them. After a short while they began splash back. Then one of them dive down and breached right along side me and did a big belly flop. I assumed he wanted me to know who was boss in the water. After that they came close and we had a wonderful time. 
     For the chance to interact with wild animals like that was someting I will never forget. Because they are courious and friendly it was a more personal expericance than swiming in the Amazon with the Pink Dolphans.
     There are always risks involved when getting close to wild animals and you should never assume that there is no danger.
     I did not feel that I was disturbing them in any way, if I did I would have retreated. It is not an experiance for the meek  but one that is well worth any risk. I would recomend it highly.