Living in Peru : your everyday companion

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Text: Miranda Troncos - Photos: Walter Silvera

Tarapoto kids learn very early how to master a canoe

(LIP-wb) -- Tarapoto is a happy-go-lucky kind of town all year-long. The commercial and tourism capital of the department of San Martín gives off a fresh breeze, lifting the spirits of the thousands of tourists who flock to this northern jungle town every year to swim in the lakes, motor up the rivers or splash in the countless waterfalls in search of excitement and unlimited adventure.

Legend has it that when the Spaniards reached the ancient valley of the Cumbaza River during one of the many frenetic expeditions in search of El Dorado, the local inhabitants, members of the Cumbaza tribe, were completely wiped out.

Just two children survived, whom the Apu mountain spirit turned into a bull and a butterfly. The bull’s tears formed the Schilcayo River, while the butterfly, shot by a musket, turned into the now-dry Lake Suchiche.

This, the legend says, was how Tarapoto was formed. The city was founded August 20, 1782 by Bishop Baltazar Jaime Martínez de Compagnón y Bujanda. There are two versions explaining why the city was given its name. One claims the Spanish explorers gave the name Tarapotus to the Huacrapona, a palm tree once common in the area, but of which few remain today.

The port of Chazuta which looks out over the winding River

A second explanation claims that Tarapoto comes from the word “tara”, meaning the content of some product, whether fish, corn or some other foodstuff, or the name of a plant, and “poto”, a cup made from the dried Huingo gourd.

Today, the City of Palms does little honor to its nickname. There are barely a handful left of the pot-bellied palms that gave the city is name and fame, and today, other fronds lend shade to the traveler. But the city has preserved its enchantment over the years.

The construction of major new roads has made it easier to get to the area’s attractions, although there is still much to be done. Work on the area’s infrastructure has consolidated Tarapoto’s status as one of the country’s most fascinating tourist circuits.

The laughing waters

The streets of Tarapoto are lined with several different varieties of palm trees. When it gets hot, nearly always, rivers like the Cumbaza are the favorite destination of the town’s inhabitants.

Tarapoto is just a 55-minute plane ride away from the Peruvian capital. Travelers will find a modern airport (recently revamped by state airport authority Corpac) and step out into the balmy air of summer in the jungle which runs year-round. Temperatures can soar to 34°C, but visitors can refresh themselves with a few sips of coconut water, until darkness heralds the city’s bustling night-life.

Once visitors have stored their luggage at their hotel (Tarapoto features many first-rate places to stay), the first stop on the tour is the Ahuashiyaku waterfall, “the Laughing Waters”. Just 15 km from Tarapoto, near the road to the city of Yurimaguas, Ahuashiyaku is actually made up of three falls, each of them cascading down more than 50 meters before plunging into a vast, clear pool where swimmers can float, watching the sun dip into the surrounding jungle foliage. This is paradise.

PRIVACY Ahuashiyaku waterfalls, 15 km off the road to Tarapoto

After rinsing off and lunching on cecina con tacacho (pork with fried plantain), it is time to visit the town of Lamas, just 22 km from Tarapoto. Dubbed the folk art capital of San Martín and the Peruvian Amazon in general, Lamas has been divided into two sectors since its foundation in 1656: the native quarter or Wayku in the lower reaches, and the mestizo quarter, higher up.

The town’s patron saint festival coincides with Tarapoto’s Tourism Week, which runs from July 10-16, when the locals render homage to the “Triunfo de la Santa Cruz de los Motilones”.

The native festival, which has Quechua-speaking Andean origins, is the most striking aspect of the week, however. This is the Festival of Santa Rosa, the patron saint of Lamas, when thousands of dancers in troupes called pandillas dress up in colorful costumes, their faces painted with ochre. The dancers weave through the streets to the strains of local musical instruments. The spectacle is impressive throughout the festival.

Headed for the Huallaga

After leaving Lamas, visitors should prepare their hearts and minds, because the next destination is Chazuta, where launches set out along the choppy Huallaga River to Pongo de Aguirre. Chazuta is a tiny district located a little more than 40 km from Tarapoto, and is reached by a rough road which becomes even bumpier when it rains, in other words, when one least expects it.

Lake Sauce, 52 km from Tarapoto

Chazuta is famous for its pottery, which is unmatched in the area

Pongo de Aguirre is a narrow pass where the Huallaga River leaves the cloud forest and flows down into the meandering Amazon plain. A spectacular sight, it is often overlooked by tour operators. Its name comes from Spanish explorer Lope de Aguirre, whose search for El Dorado left a trail of death and destruction which is still told by the locals. (*)

Chazuta is also the home of artisans who produce some of the finest crafts in the province of San Martín, and which is exhibited in the Wasichay Cultural Center.

Others will want to take a dip in the Tunun Tunumba waterfalls, an hour’s drive away, and in the hot springs of Chazutayacu and Achinamiza, in Pongo de Aguirre itself. Rafting down the rapids of Vaquero, Estero and Chumía, however, should only be tackled by experts.

Bewitching jungle lakes

Typical home in Lamas

Nights in Tarapoto are balmy and as fragrant as a good bowl of inchicapi, a superb chicken soup filled with peanuts and manioc root. Visitors will want to ramble through Morales, the district which features more discos and bars than anywhere else in the province, and take to the dance floor to the strains of the latest hits.

A definite must, however, is a visit to the town of Sauce and the lake of Laguna Azul. This tranquil town of just 6,000 inhabitants is to be found 52 km from the city after crossing the Huallaga River at Puerto López on a peculiar flatbed ferry made of three launches linked with planks. The remains of a once-exclusive lakeside beach resort are a testimony to an era of splendor cut short by drug trafficking and terrorism in the 1980s.

At midday, with the thermometer hitting 35°C, when every living being appears to be asleep, there is no reason not to take a dip in the mirror-bright waters of the Laguna Azul. One can water-ski, or simply putter around in a motorboat. Then it is time for lunch, which could consist of cebiche de doncella (raw fish marinated in lemon juice), sudado de tilapia (steamed fish) or the local juane (chicken and rice pastry), the best of jungle cuisine.

Sunset in the Lower Huallaga River Valley

Possibilities

Tarapoto is a unique destination. It is not the capital of the Region of San Martín, but it has become the busiest commercial town in the area, with major communication channels with nearby cities and one of the cities featuring the greatest potential for growth in the jungle region. The urgent need to improve the roads that link Tarapoto to the rest of the region will doubtless turn the City of Palms into one of the pillars of eco-tourism in Peru.


The road to El Dorado

The province of San Martín lies in the northeastern corner of the department of San Martín itself, in the heart of the cloud forest, at an altitude of over 350 meters. The capital of the department, Tarapoto, a bustling commercial, agricultural and tourism emporium, is one of the largest cities in the Peruvian Amazon jungle.

- Climate -

The region enjoys a tropical climate, with hot sunshine and frequent downpours. Temperatures range from 25°C to 34°C on average. The rain season runs from December to April, although rain showers are common throughout the year.

- How to get there -

Local airlines Aerocontinente runs every day, one-hour flights to Tarapoto. Airfare ranges from $59 to $129 (Telf.242-4242).
The overland route takes at least 10 hours and requires several changes, but the scenery along the way makes the trip worthwhile. Travelers can take the Expreso Cruz del Sur bus service from Lima to Chiclayo and there take another bus to Tarapoto. The trip can take as much as 30 hours, which is why travelers are advised to take a car service called autocolectivo to Rioja, Bagua Grande or Nuevo Cajamarca, and then take another from there to Tarapoto.

- Where to stay -

-Puerto Palmeras Tarapoto Resort, at Kilometer 3 along the South Marginal Highway (Carretera Marginal Sur). Tel: 52-3978.
-Hotel Río Schilcayo, Pasaje San Martín 224. Tel: 52-2225.
-Puerto Patos Sauce Lodge, Huallaga and Dos de Mayo, Sauce. Telf. 523978.
-Hotel Monte Azul, Jirón Camila Morey 156. Tel: 52-2443.
-Hotel Lily, Jirón Jiménez Pimentel 407. Tel: 52-3154.
-Hotel Nilas, Jirón Moyobamba 173. Tel: 52-7331.
-Hostal La Posada Inn, Jirón San Martín 146. Tel: 52-2234.
-Hostal Cerro Verde, en el Jirón Augusto B. Leguía 596. Tel: 52-2288.

- Where to eat -

-La Patarashca, Jirón Lamas 255. Tel: 52-3899.
-Chifa Tai Pai, Jirón Rioja 252. Tel: 52-4393.


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Tarapoto Is a wonderful place full of many wonderful sites. My beautiful Peruvian bride and I were married in Tarapoto on June 30th of this year, and it is an experience that I will never forget. I have several very wonderful friends in Tarapoto whom I will never ever forget. In terms of hotels, I highly recommend the hotel Altamera. They have a wonderful hotel with very gracious hosts and a wonderful breakfast that is included with the room, and best of all it is only about sixteen dollars a day. If anyone visits Tarapoto, please take the time to visit Laguna Venecia just outside of town. It is a beautiful place and it is where my beautiful bride and I had our wedding reception.

The story about Tarapoto was informative and interesting, but the information on how to get there is quite a bit out of date. Aero Continente hasn't been flying for quite some time, and today you have the choice of Lan Peru, Wayra (sp?), along with Star Peru. Round trip on Lan Peru is approximately $150.00 but they do have occasional specials for half the cost. Additionally, bus service is provided by Movil Tours as well as others with no need to "change" buses in Chiclayo or elsewhere. The overland route from Lima is quite a bit more than 10 hours - more like 24 to 26 hours.

I lived in Tarapoto for 2 years (1967 - 1968)as a child. My father worked for a company building the PanAmerican highway. We frequently rode our Honda 90 motorcycle up the road to Yurimaguas, rode through Morales on the way to the 'Riviera' to eat fresh cooked chicken or walk through the cemetary. Your narrative evokes many fond memories and I hope to return one day - to visit some of the many friends we made. Our favorite foods were humitas, ceviche, anticuchos and helados. Thank you for updating me on the area that was very remote and isolated. It sounds like a metropolitan area now.

omg!!! My beautty city... I use to rode a bike too, I miss it so much.. Thanks for your comments you ppl, I am a Tarapotense and some day I ll be back to my roots... Peace.

I LOVE TARAPOTO

Asun°°

Hi,

we want to go in middle of Dezember to Tarapoto/Moyobamba.
Is it possible to stay directly at Lagune Azul ("Lago de Sauce")?
Can anybody gives us informations ( contacts) to local people?
Many thanks in advance!

Cheers,  Frank

We stayed in Tarapoto in August 2007.
There are quite modern hotels with accomodations like AC and swimming pool. Altamera seemed like a nicer one.

Most of all we enjoyed the waterfalls. These are one of not many waterfall sites, which located very close to town and are very easy to access, only 5-7 minutes walk from the parking.

If you plan to use credit card, make sure you have VISA, because at this time that's the only type they accept in hotels and restaurants.

words cannot describe the tranquility...
i spent a month there looking for me...
but angels are what i found.

i also found exactly what i had all along
... 'twere i a singer, i 'twood sing tara a song...
and i'd certainly buy the next round!

i'd sing her a song, " estilo icaro pue' "
like the ones my shaman sang to me everyday
and i would hail my "mamiwasi"
and all her banda/posse...

i am very ill but once frailty subdues the will
then woman will be woman still...

i went there not totally sure
but certainly welcome to find a cure

and these gentes, in a humble abode,
no kitchen or shower, least a commode
welcomed me with open arms...
they fed me well, picked me up when i fell
and prayed against all evil harms...

PachaMama is our Mother Earth...
The belly button of the planet...
Exactly where oxygen gives birth
and we're cutting her down dammit...

and if you know a little spanish from peru
look at some words then review...

"poto" means backside, your butt or behind
i see the humor in a lil' rhyme

si quieres llegar al ombligo a la planeta, hay que pasar por el poto primero...

there is a restaurant in moyobamba. the owners name is chuchu...

he has a sign over the bar that says...

si no vienes a probar el chuchu, ?a que en chuchas vienes?


i will be returning in june of 08...
i'm praying that it won't be too late...

three months i will spend in the midst 
of the rainforest and her morning mist

write me if you have something to add
leaving tarapoto has left me sad...

cuidanse todo la banda de shilcayo, los amo y extrano mucho


  

I recently lost my grandmother, Lastenia Collantes (Lasty) who was born and raised in Lamas. My mom was taken to Lima to be raised by her grandmother in hopes for a better future.  I only saw Lasty a couple of times in my life but saw her everyday thru my mom.
Then we moved to Los Angeles and have been here for 20 years now.

I thought about visiting Lamas many times but every time my parents will scare away the thougths by telling it was too dangerous for me to go.  Now that Lasty is no longer here and I read Lamas is beautiful to visit, I will make it a point to go.

I appreciate the comments of everyone who took the time to write positive things about the town.

Sandra

http://www.lindavida.com

http://www.lindavida.com/

HERCAMPURI (Gentianella alborosea): Hypocholesterolemic, cholegogue, choleretic and blood depurative. It is recommended in treatments for weight loss and cholesterol reduction. Also used to treat hepatic affections and as a natural blood purifier. Due to its lipotrophical action, it has a remarkable action on fat metabolism eliminating fatness without cause anorexy.

CAT'S CLAW (Uncaria tomentosa): It is a powerful natural anti-inflammatory recommended for the treatment of arthritic and rheumatic affections, articulation and osteomuscular pains. Stimulates the immunologic system and it has showed to be very effective also in the treatment of cancer, tumors, gastritis, AIDS and some epidemic diseases.

MACA (Lepidium meyenii): Premium level natural energizer and stress-reliever. It is highly recommended for treatments of infertility and male impotence. Acts as nutrient, restorative and stamina enhancer hence helping to cope with mental and physical tiredness. It fortifies the osseous structure and increase energies. It is used in cases of convalescence, lack of memory and as a general tonic.

PASUCHACA (Geranium dielsianum): Plant with excellent hypoglicemiant effect (reduces sugar levels) reason why is recommended in the treatment of light and moderate diabetes. It is also antidiabetic, hypoglicemiant and blood purifier, considered as a good astringent and anti inflammatory that fights mouth ulcers and diarrheas.

DRAGON’S BLOOD (Croton lechleri): Is an excellent cicatrizant used in problems of gastrointestinal ulcers and external ulcerations or injuries (cellular repair). Its hemeostatic property goes hand in hand with cicatrisation, since it stops the hemorrhage of a wound or ulceration. Traditionally used for diverse afecctions like uterine colics, hemorrhages, disenteria and treatment of tumors.

http://www.lindavida.com/commande.html

 I´m about to visit Tarapoto for second time. I´m sure it will be fun.

 Mario