Living in Peru : your everyday companion

Jose, our very capable guide explained the route to us, what his hand signals would mean and when we should expect to return (in 3 to 4 hours). After some trial pedaling in front of their office to make sure we could still ride without running into each other, it was off to the first stop, a small park called Domodossola on the coast of the bay in Miraflores. Here we received some lessons in the history of the park and the two men it was dedicated to, a famous explorer aviator named Jorge Chavez Dartnell and a scientist named Pedro Paulet Mostajo. Jorge was the first man to fly over the Alps and Pedro built, and tested the first liquid fuel rocket engine. He also designed an early spaceship prototype.

From the Domodossola Park we rode along the coast admiring the beautiful sea views. We then crossed a bridge into the community of Barranco. Here we stopped at a museum with an old Funicular (a tram that delivered beach goers down the cliff), the Church of La Ermita a historic landmark, the Bridge of Sighs, and a stop in front of some historic homes along the coast. At each site Jose gave us the history and some local color involved with them.

Chorillos was the next community that we biked to. Did I mention that riding your bike on the sidewalks is legal in Lima? We rode along avoiding pedestrians and traffic alike. It was quite exciting at times but never did we feel in any real danger. Arriving we stopped at the coast again and admired views of the piers where the local fishermen dropped anchor, the local fish market and beach areas. As in the other communities Jose gave us the history of the place and its people.

Leaving Chorillos we started the ride back into Barranco for a snack. We took a different route back which provided a bit of excitement for me. One of the other riders and I tried to make it through an entrance to an unused bus route at the same time. To avoid a collision I ended up on the “freeway” trying to avoid a lot of cars. Quickly seeing the error in my judgment I pulled to the side, hoped off the bike and hauled myself and it over the divide and onto the deserted bus route. Whew, that was a nice adrenaline rush. The rest of the ride was uneventful and as we rode, Jose once again explained everything we were seeing and especially pointed out sites of interest. Arriving back in Barranco we stopped at a small bar called Jaunito for a sandwich and a drink (included in the cost). This restaurant was opened in the 1900’s as an Italian Store and Bar but purchased by Juan Casusol in 1937 and converted to a restaurant/bar. He is still living and is 96 years old. The sandwiches were delicious and we left refreshed and ready for the rest of the tour.

Then it was back to Miraflores for a quick stop at their famous Mall “Larcomar.” I am not a big Mall person but I have to admit that this one is quite nice. It is built into the side of the Cliff overlooking the ocean and the views are spectacular. Then we were off again, along the coast to the Love Park.
The Love Park, also located in Miraflores has an interesting story behind it and I think you should take the tour to hear it. It’s most notable for the large statue in its center called “The Kiss” by the renowned Peruvian Sculptor, Victor Delfin. There are also large works of concrete and tile throughout the park that have excerpts from Love Poems by famous poets. From here you can also see the cliff where the parasailers leave the edge of the cliffs to sail along the coast using the excellent updrafts in the area.

From the Love Park it was a short ride up the Coast to our next destination, the Light House also located in Miraflores. No longer in use as a navigation aid, it stands at the edge of the cliffs in its own park overlooking the sea as a reminder of the risks to ships that the coast in this area can provide. It does make for a beautiful photo op though. From here we went to our last destination at the Kennedy and Central Parks of Miraflores before returning to the Offices of Lima Bike Tours and concluding the tour.

Biking through this portion of Lima was an amazing experience made all the more so by our excellent guide. You get to see and hear things that I doubt could be offered by any other method. The biking is done at a pace that anyone can keep up with and is generally adapted to the level of physical activity that the group can handle. I hope that any of you reading this will take the opportunity if you are in Lima to do this. I enjoyed the Bay Tour so much that I went back and did the Downtown City Tour as well. It was also an excellent experience and once again I got to see more of Lima and its surrounds (including some archaeological sites) that I would ever have been able to accomplish on my own or with another type of tour. For those who are traveling there, here is the link to their website and the name of the Tour Manager of the Company. As far as I can discover they are the only people offering this opportunity in Lima:

www.biketoursoflima.com
José Perochena
BIKE TOURS OF LIMA
Tour Manager

About the author:

I am a retired Clinical Systems Analyst from the United States who has been traveling the world for many years, both before and after retirement. I have always kept journals of my travels and been an avid photographer. Shortly before my retirement I decided that I would like to try freelance travel writing and photography as a semi-profession, especially in retirement. So far I have enjoyed it very much. I have a web page with travel journals from the past few years along with photographs and articles I have had published. In addition you will find interesting adventures and writing as concerns my friends and family.

This is my fourth trip to Peru and the longest (8 months). I love this country, its people and cultures. It is my intention to make Lima a second home, if not my primary residence eventually. I intend to write about my experiences here (good and bad) and what it is like to live in another country.

www.rodneydodig.com

I can be contacted at lestat711@yahoo.com

If nothing else I hope you enjoy the article and photos.

Thanks for your consideration.

Rodney

Add to del.icio.us | |

11 Comments

# Oscar Espinoza says :
20 May, 2009 [ 03:31 ]

very good idea, looks nice but seems to be just to foreigners, because a valid passport is needed to rent a bike.  Is it correct?

# ANGEL STANLEY LLONTOP PEZANTES says :
20 May, 2009 [ 03:56 ]

well is very interesting drive a bicycle, how i can do drive bicycle  with you?

# Rick Belanger says :
21 May, 2009 [ 08:13 ]

This brings back fond memories of San Isidro, Miraflores and Barranco.  I would love to do this the next time I am in Peru.

# Sean says :
21 May, 2009 [ 09:24 ]

As far as I remember Lima, I would never ride a bike there, the traffic is TERRIBLE, they seem not to respect any rule at all and I was hell scared even in taxis!! ANd the pollution is very annoying

# Ulises Robinson says :
21 May, 2009 [ 05:52 ]

I do most of this route Rodney has described almost every day, most of the times with some scared novice female friends visiting Lima for the first time and I would say that in spite of how insane the traffic in Lima is, you can enjoy routes like this.  It is just a matter of learning the behavior of those crazy drivers, then they become somehow predictable for you, letting you develope some tricks to ride spontaneously safely, without feeling paranoic... no matter having to ride as if somebody had been paid to hit you!  

# Alicia Olga del Prado says :
24 May, 2009 [ 05:24 ]

Felicitaciones por la idea,Lima es una ciudad muy linda,que muchas personas,incluyendo a los peruanos dejamos de lado,porfavor mantengame informada,debo de estar en Lima para Septiembre y siempre andube en bicicleta por el Callao y Lima en mi juventud.

# Lillian C.Temple says :
24 May, 2009 [ 08:10 ]

BEAUTIFUL, BRING ME MEMORIES OF A GREAT CITY, LIMA, THANK YOU SO MUCH....LIL.

# Rita Woods says :
26 May, 2009 [ 05:29 ]

I have taken this bike tour and loved it.  We mostly traveled sidewalks, bike/walking paths and side streets where the traffic was not bad.  I would not hesitate to take the tour again and would love to take the city tour.  I was 58 when I took the tour and had not been on a bike in years, therefore, I think most people thinking about this tour can do it.

# Ame Cisneros-Piña says :
17 June, 2009 [ 04:53 ]

Dear Rodney,
I thank you for liking Peru so much, the way us Peruvians should.
I left my country over 40 years ago and I visit it as often as I can and enjoy it tremendously. I live in the other beautiful Bay Area (San Francisco).
Jose's  bike route is definetely a very well chosen one and one to which I am very familiar with. Although I have not done it on a byke I grew up two blocks from the Light House.
I am not a mall person either, but Larcomar has its own charm and being built on the acantilados make it very special indeed.
I love Barranco and its Puente de los Suspiros and of course La Hermita and its surroundings. Have you had anticuchos at Mario's? it's a must.

I'm glad to see how Chorrillos is coming along, I'm glad its Mayor is doing a good job in reconstructing it.
Thank you, again, for the great pictures and a great article. I'm looking forward to your next journal...

# bezzan says :
18 June, 2009 [ 05:21 ]

 Dear Rodney,

Thanks a lot for your beautiful description of the trip ou made. I read your article .

I'd like to visit Nazca.

I'm preparing myself a trekking in Peru, for this coming month of August.

After the end of my 3 weeks - trekking in mountains & volcanos (la Cordillera blanca, Machu Pichu, Titicaca, etc) , I'll arrive in  Lima , where I'll stay for 4 days , before to go back to Belgium.

I'd like then to make a visit of Lima, but also I'd like to see the Nazca site , as well as maybe ICA, Pisco , las islas Paracas, etc .

I searched on the internet and found a small agency that sells different types of tours. (turistico@nazcaconexxion.com )

Do you know this agency? or are there any would could advise me?

What would be the most beautiful and interesting places to visit ?

Many thanks for your advices and experience sharing,

Best wishes,

joelle

# Rodney says :
18 June, 2009 [ 10:16 ]

Joelle,

E-mail me at lestat711@yahoo.com and I will do my best to help you.

Rodney

---