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22 September, 2009 10:43:13 | in Lima

An Afternoon Drive: The Coast South of Lima

By
Rodney L. Dodig


The beauty of the coastline south of Lima is undeniable. Driving through Chorrilos on the Malecon  C Montarela and going further south along the Paseo Billinghurst you will find vistas that delight the eye, as well as the sounds of the ocean’s waves crashing on the rocky coast that will sooth away the stress of a busy day. Regardless of the weather, this drive will provide you with ample photo opportunities and nice pull off areas to take them from. Besides driving through this area I saw a group of people on bikes taking this route and one lone young lady jogging along the coastal highway.


As you are driving along the Malecon through Chorrillos to your left you will see many restored homes from the colonial era. Much is being done to improve Chorrillos and its image, to the population’s credit. To the right are views of Chorrillos’s large beautiful sand beach, a place that is very popular during the hot humid summers of Lima. A little further along are the docks and the pier where the fishermen anchor their boats and bring their fresh catches to market. This fish market is one of the best places in the area to buy very fresh fish at extremely good prices. Next you will see the Club de Regatas, a very exclusive place for activities of all sorts, including sailing. In the center of the Malecon is a nice park with statues and fountains. The entire area is clean and well maintained, as is much of Chorillos from what I have seen. Off this drive and inward a few blocks you will find beautiful plazas and homes colorfully painted with fascinating architecture.

Going further south on the coastal highway, you will find views of the ocean where the mountains dive into the ocean creating majestic scenes with large waves crashing into the large rocks at the water’s edge. You can see people enjoying the water with their sailing ships and Jet Skis. Lone fishermen perch on the edge of the rocks tossing in a single hand held line in an effort to catch fresh fish for lunch. Other people scramble over the boulders looking for interesting rocks or shells to collect. A striking cross stands tall at one of the road side stops, and symbolizes a prayer to God to protect those who make a living on the sea. Then, of course, there are the few people with camera in hand trying to capture the moment to share with others.

Rounding one of the curves the restaurant El Salto del Fraile or The Jumping Priest comes into view as well as the small beach town of Playa del Herradura. The restaurant is built on one of the rocky promontories that jut out into the ocean. It is an amazing site to see as you round the curve on your journey. I had heard about this place and its history and wanted to stop here for lunch. After stopping to take some photos of it at a distance we pulled into the parking lot and headed into the restaurant.  It’s a stunning place with lots of tables by the windows and with spectacular views of the coast. We had lunch there and the food was very good and decently priced. Three of us had a hearty lunch with juices for drinks for 128 Soles. It is a little pricey by some standards but the décor and views made it worthwhile.

There is a myth about the spot the restaurant was built on from which it takes its name. Legend has it that there was a family with a daughter who adopted a son. At a very young age they fell in love and decided they would marry when they were older. The parents did not like the idea and sent the son off to become a priest. The daughter became lonely and desolate until one day she received a note from the young man asking her to meet him on the cliffs above the ocean. They met and renewed their statements of love for each other and agreed to meet the next Saturday on the rocks closer to the ocean. Saturday came and they met in the agreed spot and sat together watching the ships pass on their way to Chile until they had to part. They agreed to meet again the following Saturday in the same place.

The priest was there on time but the young lady was not. He had a spy glass and was watching the ships pass as usual where upon he thought he saw the young lady on the ship to Chile waving to him. She appeared so close to him that he reached out to touch her and fell over the edge of the cliff to his death. To recreate this event, there are now three men dressed as Monks who dive from the reported site of the tragedy into the ocean below. It is quite a sight and not without its dangers to the divers.

After lunch and watching the divers, we drove from the restaurant to Playa del Herradura. There is a nice beach here that is also popular in the summer with the surfing crowd and has a few restaurants and night clubs. Then it was back towards Chorrillos, through the tunnel, over the hill back towards the Malecon and up the unnamed road to the Monument of the Unknown Soldier atop Cerro La Virgen. From this spot there are spectacular views of all of Lima and its bay. It is especially dazzling at night with the entire city lit up. You can also stop at the astronomic observatory and the monument to the Virgen Mary which also reside on top of the mountain. This is a great drive that only takes a few hours of your time but will provide you with lasting memories of the beauty of this area.

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3 Comments

# says :
23 September, 2009 [ 04:23 ]
Great article!
I felt as if I was walking alone the coast.
The only thing that disturb me a bit is the last picture of Lima with that almost black sky. It looks really scary!
Is that the way it usually looks?
# Bob Quigley says :
24 September, 2009 [ 09:08 ]
Excellent...made this trip in Septmber 2000. A must stop is Sonia's in Chorillos, great cevichi and seafood, pisco sours very good. Saludos a todos, Bob
# James Wells says :
24 September, 2009 [ 12:00 ]
This is also a great trip.  It has been almost 2 years since my last trip, but I always love to make the trip along the sea.  About the black sky, it looks like winter.  Most of the winter you will find an overcast sky, but the temp isn't too bad, just don't expect to see a lot of sun till summer.

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