Lima, Peru | Friday 04 July 2008 16:59 | | US$ - S/. 2.89
by José Whilar - Whilar Surf Academy Director
As I sit with my camera on top of the Chorrillos cliff overlooking the ocean to make the early wave or swell shot for the Peru Surf Report, lots of things go through my mind, life, love, children, jobs, and the question, what kept me surfing after all these years?
Surfing started with me when my dad took me to the ocean at the age of 4 or 5, we use to go to Regatas Lima, the club he loved. He dipped me into the waves, taught me how to body surf. At the beginning I was kind of afraid of the ocean, everybody is I think, but then all of a sudden it turned to be fun, and surfing on air mattresses was the start of a surf life.
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