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Travel
29 January, 2008 11:00:54 | in Cusco
The forgotten capital of Peru
by Venetia Rainey
Nouse - York University
Unable to reach Machu Picchu by the conventional route, Venetia Rainey explores the former Inca capital of Cusco, where history fuses with South American vibrancy
One of the world’s most spectacular treks is the Peru’s Capaq Nan trail, otherwise known as the Inca trail. The classic route covers 70km and reaches heights of over 4,200m above sea. It takes about four days to reach the legendary lost Inca city of Machu Picchu, officially named one of the Seven Wonders of the World last year. The sense of victory after such a hike makes for a once in a lifetime (and fairly costly) experience. At least, so I have been told.
I had the misfortune of suffering what all travellers must endure at one point or another: food poisoning. After drinking impure water whilst staying on an island in Lake Titicaca, I was crippled by the illness and utterly unable to keep food or water down. On the third day, I found myself being roughly pulled out of bed, and my pyjamas swapped for hiking boots, shorts and a t-shirt. Three hours from the starting point of the trail, I had to admit defeat. My family went on without me, and a rather put-out porter travelled back the five hour journey with me to the nearest town, Cusco.
Nouse - York University
Unable to reach Machu Picchu by the conventional route, Venetia Rainey explores the former Inca capital of Cusco, where history fuses with South American vibrancy
One of the world’s most spectacular treks is the Peru’s Capaq Nan trail, otherwise known as the Inca trail. The classic route covers 70km and reaches heights of over 4,200m above sea. It takes about four days to reach the legendary lost Inca city of Machu Picchu, officially named one of the Seven Wonders of the World last year. The sense of victory after such a hike makes for a once in a lifetime (and fairly costly) experience. At least, so I have been told.I had the misfortune of suffering what all travellers must endure at one point or another: food poisoning. After drinking impure water whilst staying on an island in Lake Titicaca, I was crippled by the illness and utterly unable to keep food or water down. On the third day, I found myself being roughly pulled out of bed, and my pyjamas swapped for hiking boots, shorts and a t-shirt. Three hours from the starting point of the trail, I had to admit defeat. My family went on without me, and a rather put-out porter travelled back the five hour journey with me to the nearest town, Cusco.
read more »
22 January, 2008 23:30:23 | in Cusco
Ancient "Lost City" Discovered in Peru
Kelly Hearn
National Geographic News
Ruins recently discovered in southern Peru could be the ancient "lost city" of Paititi, according to claims that are drawing serious but cautious response from experts.
The presumptive lost city, described in written records as a stone settlement adorned with gold statues, has long been a grail for explorers—as well as a lure for local tourism businesses.
A commonly cited legend claims that Paititi was built by the Inca hero Inkarri, who founded the city of Cusco before retreating into the jungle after Spanish conquerors arrived.
National Geographic News
Ruins recently discovered in southern Peru could be the ancient "lost city" of Paititi, according to claims that are drawing serious but cautious response from experts.The presumptive lost city, described in written records as a stone settlement adorned with gold statues, has long been a grail for explorers—as well as a lure for local tourism businesses.
A commonly cited legend claims that Paititi was built by the Inca hero Inkarri, who founded the city of Cusco before retreating into the jungle after Spanish conquerors arrived.
read more »
16 January, 2008 09:30:18 | in Amazon
Clues from the mists of time
Peru's ancient 'cloud warriors' put their dead in towering walls. The Chachapoya gave way to the Inca and Spanish, but first they flourished.By Patrick J. McDonnell, Los Angeles Times Staff Writer
Kuelap, Peru
The broken skeletons were scattered like random pottery shards, rediscovered where they had fallen centuries ago.
Were these ancient people cut down in some long-forgotten battle? Did European-introduced diseases cause their demise? Were they casualties of some apocalyptic reckoning at this great walled citadel?
The "cloud warriors" of ancient Peru are slowly offering up their secrets -- and more questions.
Recent digs at this majestic site, once a stronghold of the Chachapoya civilization, have turned up scores of skeletons and thousands of artifacts, shedding new light on these myth-shrouded early Americans and one of the most remarkable, if least understood, of Peru's pre-Columbian cultures.
Were these ancient people cut down in some long-forgotten battle? Did European-introduced diseases cause their demise? Were they casualties of some apocalyptic reckoning at this great walled citadel?
The "cloud warriors" of ancient Peru are slowly offering up their secrets -- and more questions.
Recent digs at this majestic site, once a stronghold of the Chachapoya civilization, have turned up scores of skeletons and thousands of artifacts, shedding new light on these myth-shrouded early Americans and one of the most remarkable, if least understood, of Peru's pre-Columbian cultures.
read more »
8 January, 2008 09:30:54 | in Nasca
We know who drew these giant shapes in Peru's desert -- but why?
miamiherald.com
Everyone here, it seems, has a theory about the Nasca Lines.
The mysterious markings on the desert floor are a massive astronomical calendar. That's a popular one.
Or maybe they point to hidden reserves of water, the source of life in the desert.
Then there's my favorite: UFO landing site. Forty years ago, Danish writer Erich Von Daniken popularized that theory with his best-selling book Chariots of the Gods?
Now, strapped into a four-passenger Cessna circling over a figure called the astronaut, I'm not sure what to think. One of its hands points to the sky, another to the ground. His owlish eyes stare into mine.
Look at me, the 1,500-year-old seems to say. Can you solve my mystery?
Here's what's known:
Everyone here, it seems, has a theory about the Nasca Lines.The mysterious markings on the desert floor are a massive astronomical calendar. That's a popular one.
Or maybe they point to hidden reserves of water, the source of life in the desert.
Then there's my favorite: UFO landing site. Forty years ago, Danish writer Erich Von Daniken popularized that theory with his best-selling book Chariots of the Gods?
Now, strapped into a four-passenger Cessna circling over a figure called the astronaut, I'm not sure what to think. One of its hands points to the sky, another to the ground. His owlish eyes stare into mine.
Look at me, the 1,500-year-old seems to say. Can you solve my mystery?
Here's what's known:
read more »
25 December, 2007 06:00:12 | in Cajamarca
Trees that Still Seem to Breathe
Courtesy of
As we advance through this strange landscape we seem to go back in time. Our minds go back to a prehistoric age, enveloping us in a sense of mystery and the unknown.
It is a strange sensation. We walk among red hills speckled with the contrasting green of the bushes. In the distance, eucalyptus groves sway in a dance generated by the highland wind. The remains of the trunks lie everywhere.
We first learned of the existence of this unique place a few years ago. A brief report broadcast late at night informed us that it was located in northern Peru.
In a period now lost in time our region bore no resemblance to the landscape we see today. Dinosaurs ruled and great, luxuriant forests covered every inch of the territory.
Over millions of years great changes occurred. At some point, the dinosaurs and the enormous forests disappeared, giving way to new species of animals and plants. The causes of this extraordinary event have been lost to us and are wreathed in mystery.
It is a strange sensation. We walk among red hills speckled with the contrasting green of the bushes. In the distance, eucalyptus groves sway in a dance generated by the highland wind. The remains of the trunks lie everywhere.
We first learned of the existence of this unique place a few years ago. A brief report broadcast late at night informed us that it was located in northern Peru.
In a period now lost in time our region bore no resemblance to the landscape we see today. Dinosaurs ruled and great, luxuriant forests covered every inch of the territory.
Over millions of years great changes occurred. At some point, the dinosaurs and the enormous forests disappeared, giving way to new species of animals and plants. The causes of this extraordinary event have been lost to us and are wreathed in mystery.
read more »
18 December, 2007 21:00:32 | in Cusco
In Search of the Snow Star
Courtesy of
Flags representing Peru and the Tahuantinsuyo flutter at the head of hordes of pilgrims who have flocked from the Cuzco highlands to the Sinakara Valley near Mount Ausangate, to take part in one of the largest religious festivals in South America: the Festival of the Lord of Qoyllur Rit’i or the Snowstar.
We press on at dawn. The track rises and falls, a bone-jarring hike that has us sweating despite temperatures hovering below 5°C. The trail runs for a stiff 8 km, four hours of exhausting trudging from the village of Mahuayani to Qolquepunco, near Mount Ausangate.
It is the land of soaring peaks, biting winds and glacial highland plains dotted with the odd clump of spiky ichu grass. The trail winds past wayside crosses and stone cairns, until we reach the natural basin of Sinakara, at 4,800 meters. Our hearts are pounding. Time for one last sip of coca tea, and it’s up to the top.
We press on at dawn. The track rises and falls, a bone-jarring hike that has us sweating despite temperatures hovering below 5°C. The trail runs for a stiff 8 km, four hours of exhausting trudging from the village of Mahuayani to Qolquepunco, near Mount Ausangate.
It is the land of soaring peaks, biting winds and glacial highland plains dotted with the odd clump of spiky ichu grass. The trail winds past wayside crosses and stone cairns, until we reach the natural basin of Sinakara, at 4,800 meters. Our hearts are pounding. Time for one last sip of coca tea, and it’s up to the top.
read more »
11 December, 2007 20:00:27 | in Cusco
The lost city of Choquequirao
Courtesy of
Perched on top of an imposing plateau in the province of La Convención, lie the remains of a priceless and strategic stone citadel (*).
Choquequirao lies at an altitude of over 3,000 meters, on top of a plateau which looks out at Mount Salcantay. Just getting to this archaeological complex is an adventure in itself which demands physical fitness and the right gear. The diversity of climates throughout the hike and the jagged terrain along the way make it a bruising, although rewarding experience.
As Choquequirao gets few visitors, travelers can experience the feeling of visiting this remote and enigmatic spot where time seems to have stopped.
Choquequirao lies at an altitude of over 3,000 meters, on top of a plateau which looks out at Mount Salcantay. Just getting to this archaeological complex is an adventure in itself which demands physical fitness and the right gear. The diversity of climates throughout the hike and the jagged terrain along the way make it a bruising, although rewarding experience.
As Choquequirao gets few visitors, travelers can experience the feeling of visiting this remote and enigmatic spot where time seems to have stopped.
read more »
5 December, 2007 11:30:57 | in Amazon
Tambopata Candamo: Saving the Planet
Courtesy of
The Tambopata-Candamo reserved zone teems with plants, insects, reptiles, amphibians, birds and mammals. There, in the heart of the Amazon jungle, in the southeastern corner of Peru, scientists have notched up records in biological bio-diversity. Thanks to backing from the Dutch Embassy, Conservation International and state natural resources entity Inrena have been able to launch a project to conserve eco-systems and ensure the sustainable use of natural resources in this stunning area.
Wedged between the departments of Madre de Dios and Puno, the Tambopata-Candamo reserved zone stretches across some 1.5 million hectares. To reach the area, there are good roads, river routes and constant air links. The zone borders the Bahuaja-Sonene Natural Park, an area which features three eco-systems: the yunga or cloud forest; the Amazon rainforest; and the palm-studded savanna, confirming the bewildering variety of existing eco-systems.
Wedged between the departments of Madre de Dios and Puno, the Tambopata-Candamo reserved zone stretches across some 1.5 million hectares. To reach the area, there are good roads, river routes and constant air links. The zone borders the Bahuaja-Sonene Natural Park, an area which features three eco-systems: the yunga or cloud forest; the Amazon rainforest; and the palm-studded savanna, confirming the bewildering variety of existing eco-systems.
read more »
28 November, 2007 07:00:12 | in Arequipa
The Deepest Canyon in the World
Courtesy of
Between the Pacific Ocean and the first foothills of the Andes, an immense and secretive desert hides a marvelous valley. These are arid lands, covered with cactus capable of resisting the desert’s droughts. We enter the valley by way of the Majes river that runs from north to south between the mountain ranges of Arequipa’s desert. Later we will climb to nearly 5000 m.(a.s.l.) as we head toward the Cotahuasi canyon.
read more »
21 November, 2007 10:00:41 | in Amazon
The Border Forests
Courtesy of
"The last great Peruvian expedition of the century" read the headlines in Lima's daily papers announcing the first dispatches, posted on the Internet by a group of adventurers, from their campsite in the heart of the Amazon rainforest.These dispatches are part of "The Border Rainforests", a joint project by Terra Incognita and Prom Peru that will bring images of the northern Peruvian Amazon's natural and cultural treasures to an international audience. This region, home to the famous head-shrinking Jibaro Indians, was the hardest hit by the more than 40 years of conflicts with neighboring Ecuador.
This unique project is the hands of photographers Walter H. Wust and Alejandro Balaguer, both regular contributors to the pages of Rumbos. The two joined forces and, assisted by Alex Funcke and Flavio Casalino, threw themselves into the adventure of exploring the most remote and inaccessible corners of Peru. The journey began in Aguaruna territory, or the "Land of the Rainbow", as the Aguaruna Indians themselves call it.
read more »
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Last comments
- In Personal Journey: 7 strangers bonding quickly to help Peru's kids
DIANA CARRETERO HENKE says :
28 August, 2008 20:14:22
IT IS TRUE MAGIC IS THERE. GOD, FRIENDS, PEOPLE, FEELING IS IN THEAIR. - In Peru: The grown-up gapper: unwashed romance, fleece blankets and alpaca sweaters
jessicachristina says :
27 August, 2008 02:37:07
Oh its It's amazing what an apple crumble can do for international relations.I feel more at home ... - In Peru: The grown-up gapper: unwashed romance, fleece blankets and alpaca sweaters
Juan Layme says :
24 August, 2008 22:38:01
It looks like romancing is not looking at you yet.Don't worry, enjoyed life and be happy.Just re ...
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