Browsing: The Coast

The Coast

Peruvian beaches 0

A view from a restaurant in Pocitas, a relaxed beach vacation spot in Peru’s north.

By Kelly Giem
Photos by Mirella Astolfi

Las Pocitas during the off season: I’m not sure it’s a secret that I want to let out.

I didn’t spend much time in the town of Mancora itself, but rather down by the old Panamerican highway south of town in a section called Las Pocitas. Go down the road past the pier and there are a series of hotels and beaches that truly surprised me.

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Deborah Charnes was recently in Peru and quenched her thirst for archaeology with a lesser-known site in Peru: Tambo Colorado, located in the southern coastal region of Ica.

Tambo Colorado. From an altar at sunset, you can see over the Peruvian desert to the Pacific Ocean 22 miles away. (Photos by Deborah Charnes)

By Deborah Charnes

Caveat 1: I was an anthropology student.

Caveat 2: I have gotten dirty at “digs” in North and South America. I climbed up and down the pyramids at Teotihuacán many times in my life. Mitla and Monte Alban will always be special to me. I’ve traipsed up foggy Huayna and Machu Pichu.

Caveat 3: I don’t get tired of seeing more dirt and more ruins.

Peruvian beaches 0

Buen Abrigo Hotel is part of a new wave of lodgings for surfers in Chicama.

By Maria Helena Tord, El Comercio
Adapted from Spanish by Diana Schwalb

Surfers in Peru are famous not only for their great deeds on the waves, but also for being big adventurers and travelers who, in search of the best pipes, find rough beaches ideal not only for surfing, but also for the quiet enjoyment of the sun and sea.

Chicama is one of the beaches that have become legendary among local and foreign surfers who, back in the seventies, made it an obligatory stop on any trip to the north.

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Dancing to the rhythm of the cajón in Chincha, Peru in the house of the Ballumbrosios, an influential musical family. (Photo: Emily Wabitsch/El Comercio)

By Marisol Grau, El Comercio
Adapted from Spanish by Diana Schwalb

The night is black. At the head of the celebration are the Ballumbrosio brothers. Rythm, movement and tradition is everywhere. Today in El Carmen, it’s yunsa night.

So, while I enjoy this carnival celebration, I invite you to retrace my steps in a destination that, because of its proximity, needs to be dusted off, or at least, rediscovered. Welcome to Chincha…welcome back.

Peruvian beaches 0

By Yadira Salazar

When does beach season end in Lima, Peru? Usually the end is Easter weekend in March or April. I’m not sure why, but the weather during following weekends is always unpredictable.

Staying in bungalows at Organos beach, Peru's quiet vacation spot.
Beach side pool at Órganos beach. (All photos by Yadira Salazar)

At least, this happens in Lima and on most of the coast, but not in Peru’s north, where sun always shines. It was already late March and I went north looking for beach and sunny days.

After a one-hour flight to Piura and three-hour drive, we arrived in Máncora, which was very quiet compared to the party town it usually is. The reason: low season has already started which means plenty of accommodation available, plus lower prices. It was nice there, but I wanted to try something new. So we went to Órganos, seven kilometers from Máncora, a 15-minute drive.

Peruvian beaches 0

By Yadira Salazar

Growing up in Lima, on the coast, made going to the beach part of my regular life. It’s sad that the beaches in Lima aren’t that good unless you drive 40 minutes south. So the idea of going up north to look for a nice beach within walking distance of my accommodation sounded appealing. and surf: Peru offers the beaches of Pacasmayo
A beach at Pacasmayo. (All photos by Yadira Salazar) click to enlarge

For most people, the best beaches are way up north in Máncora. I agree, but it’s a long drive, 16 hours. I had only the weekend and a long bus ride wasn’t my idea of fun. So I was open to new ideas.

I went to buy a bus ticket and it was right there where I made a decision. The destination would be: Pacasmayo, about 10 hours from Lima. Pacasmayo seemed to be what I was looking for: a laid back beach town, not crowded, but still lively and most importantly sunny, warm and with an endless beach. The only thing I knew for sure about it was that there’s a huge cement factory called Cementos Pacasmayo. I was thrilled of the idea of discovering somewhere new!

Peruvian beaches 0

By Marie Alvarez-Calderon

I write this on Good Friday, the last weekend of the Peruvian summer. Like so many other people, we are at the beach. Fortunately for us “Conchitas” is a small community and even on this busiest of all weekends the shoreline is almost empty.

The day is sunny and the view from our master bedroom patio is blue: cloudless baby blue sky, gentle Copan blue ocean and crystal clean pool, all blending together in a perfect continuum, and bound together by a gentle breeze. The sun has risen to my right and is warmly caressing my body as I prepare for the last days of three exquisite months at the beach. 

Piura 0

El Comercio
Adapted from Spanish by Diana Schwalb

When we have a long weekend, we need to think about traveling. And if we want to have the sun on our side, the north of Peru is a good destination to move beyond the routine and stress. Mancora, an hour and a half from Tumbes (the best way to get there is on an airplane), offers today a very modern hotel infrastructure that has changed its face.

The Family Option
The Mancora Marina Hotel has just opened its doors. It’s a luxurious accommodation. It currently has 12 rooms but is thought to become the largest resort in the area. They are planning on opening six exclusive family suites in October and they will open the rest after that; in total 109 rooms.

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By Milagros Vera, El Comercio
Adapted from Spanish by Diana Schwalb

The enchanted forest of Chaparrí, in northern PeruThe Chaparrí Ecological Reserve is fascinating. Entering it gives you the feeling of being enchanted, in the middle of nowhere and, at the same time, in the center of the world. It makes you feel reconciled with nature, full of life and relaxed to the extreme.

In this natural paradise there is no Internet, no cell phone signal and no cable channels. However, it just takes one look at the impressive landscape of endless dry forest to realise that those urban details are unnecessary.

Waking up to the sweet melody of a bird, having breakfast together with hummingbirds and reading a book while breathing fresh air is a luxury that you can enjoy here.

If you enjoy walking, this place has long trails to do it and you will most likely be surprised by a coastal fox, which is the smallest of South America, or by a spectacled bear pulling fruit off a tree. But fear not “because the animals that inhabit Chaparrí do not feel threatened and therefore do not attack,” explains its director, Heinz Plenge.

Peruvian beaches 0

By Marie Alvarez-Calderon

We hear a lot these days about global warming — and those of us who have seen its effects first hand can testify that, regardless of what or whom is to blame, something is indeed going on. A brief glance at the newspapers or Internet confirms that glaciers are melting. In Peru the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes is beginning to look a lot like the Cordillera Negra; torrential rains and flooding have caused loss of homes, crops, and serious damage to the Machu Picchu tourist trade.

We’ve even seen a few drops of rain on the coast. Heading down the Panamericana a couple of Fridays ago, police guided traffic through foot-deep water running off from what we were sure must be rain, but instead turned out to be a broken water main. But still, climate change is in the making and assigning or avoiding blame won’t do much to fix the problem. While the higher-ups debate the fate of the world, I’d like to suggest taking a different approach: Travel to Peru. beach in Lima, Peru
A beach just south of Lima, Peru.