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Features / Archive
7 November, 2006 11:38:58 | in cuisine
An Interview with Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio
by C.J. Schexnayder, klephblog (www.kleph.com)
Gaston Acurio is the leading light of Peruvian cuisine. The 38-year-old is a bona fide celebrity in Peru where his cooking show is a hit and his cookbooks are in high demand. But his reputation is cemented by the continuing popularity of his ever-expanding number of restaurants in Lima – particularly his flagship Astrid y Gaston in Miraflores.
His reputation beyond Perus borders is growing as well. He was named Latin American Entrepreneur of 2005 by American Economia magazine was a guest speaker at Gastronomia Madrid Fusion conference in Spain this year.
Gaston Acurio is the leading light of Peruvian cuisine. The 38-year-old is a bona fide celebrity in Peru where his cooking show is a hit and his cookbooks are in high demand. But his reputation is cemented by the continuing popularity of his ever-expanding number of restaurants in Lima – particularly his flagship Astrid y Gaston in Miraflores.
His reputation beyond Perus borders is growing as well. He was named Latin American Entrepreneur of 2005 by American Economia magazine was a guest speaker at Gastronomia Madrid Fusion conference in Spain this year.
Over the past several years, Acurio has been exporting his success. To date, there are Astrid y Gaston restaurants in Quito, Ecuador; Santiago, Chile; Caracas,Venezuela; Bogota, Colombia. By the end of they year, branches in Panama City, Panama and Mexico City, Mexico will open their doors.
He is also introducing new concepts in Lima that include T’anta, a market-style deli; Pasquale Brothers, a sandwich shop and Panchita, a Peruvian-style grill.
It is his Peruvian seafood concept, La Mar, that is already making strides. The flagship store was opened in Miraflores in late 2005 and, by the end of December there will be versions in Mexico City, Mexico; Panama City, Panama and Sao Paulo, Brazil.
Currently there are La Mar stores under development every country in South America. Acurio is eying they US market, developing plans to open the concept in San Diego, California; Miami, Florida, San Francisco, California and Washington D.C
Earlier this year, I visited Acurio in his headquarters located in a picturesque two-story building in Lima's Barranco district. It is from his office and test kitchen here that he directs his growing culinary empire.
What is the state of Peruvian cuisine?
Right now, in Peru, we are living in the middle of a gastronomic revolution. There is a boom in cookbooks, restaurants and cooking schools. We are the reference for the rest of South America. When people from other countries look at Peru they say, "The thing they do well is cook." Our approach to food is a model for the rest.
Is that happening in the United States as well?
Yes. We have seen a lot of attention in the last year to Peruvian food. A lot of journalists, food journalists, have come to write about it because it is the up and coming cuisine in the world. We are where Mexican food was a quarter-century ago.
In the last three years we have seen Peruvian restaurants emerge as some of the best restaurants in the United States. That has never happened before. We are seeing high-end fine-dining Peruvian restaurants opening in Seattle, San Francisco and Washington D.C.
How has the popularity of Peruvian and NovoAndino food affected the restaurant industry?
Right now there are about 500 Peruvian restaurants in the world. What we would like to see is that expand to 200,000 in the next 20 years. Which is not impossible when you look at other cuisines that have taken off in the past. There are much more than 200,000 Mexican restaurants in the world today and those restaurants increase the exports of products from Mexico.
It is not just what these restaurants are buying. These restaurants led to an acceptance of Mexican cooking and now you find fajitas and tacos and the ingredients to make them in supermarkets everywhere. People are cooking these dishes in their homes. Not all of this comes from Mexico but there is a greater demand for Mexican products as a result.
What is the key for your approach to the business?
There is a main philosophy for our entire organization – use the best products possible, buy product daily, keep the best people, all the chefs all the managers, keep them in the organization – and that is the core of what we do. But if it is possible to use technology or techniques to achieve those things, we use them.
Success is not in the plate, it is in the experience. Because success is not in what you sell but rather in if the customer comes back. Our philosophy across all of our brands is to build a relationship with the customer - a long term relationship.
We are not interested in being the fashionable restaurant for one or two years. We don’t want to be the type of restaurant that people go to because everyone else is going. A key part of that is the people that live there, year round.
How have you developed your different concepts for restaurants?
Every concept we have developed has come from our own dissatisfaction when we went out to eat. We were not happy with what we found here. The passion we have for the food goes further than most of the places we found in Peru.
So we said "let's do the cevicheria of our dreams. Lets do the sanguicharia of our dreams."
Once you have the concept, how does that shape your philosphy for the restaurant?
I want people to get lost in the concept. When they leave the restaurant I want them to say, "I never knew this type of eating existed before." And, if we succeed in bringing that idea to the world outside of Peru, then the market will be open for other Peruvian restaurants to open.
What is the underlying philosophy behind the Astrid y Gaston chain?
You don’t want to set too many rules. You want to have the same philosophy but every place has different rules. Every Astrid y Gaston has to have a different atmosphere. They keep some Peruvian aspects like ahi’s and different traditions but then fuse them with local ingredients and dishes and traditions as well. All the restaurants have a point in common but they each need to be inspired by their own place.
Why did you decide to open the restaurant in other countries?
A lot of people came to me and proposed opening the restaurant in other places but I always said "no" because I didn’t even know what I was in terms of my cooking. We didn’t have a philosophy, we didn’t have a clear idea that we could tell people "This is what we are."
So after five years we had a better idea of what we wanted to be. We wanted to be a Peruvian restaurant. We wanted to offer modern Peruvian cuisine in a refined setting to compete with French-style fine-dining restaurants. It was not just from a cooking standpoint, it was knowing what we wanted to be from a business standpoint.
After five years we were ready. We knew what we wanted with the menu, we knew what we wanted with the atmosphere, we were ready with our financing and we went to Chile.
Where did the idea for La Mar came from?
La Mar was that idea for the type of cevicheria we wished we could go eat at. We said, lets build a cevicheria in the style of the classic type of cevicheria but offer the highest quality food and service.
So we wanted it to be open, we wanted music. We wanted some of the chaos... but have it with a unified design, with top-quality products. And lets make it a cevicheria that we can do here but we can also do anywhere else in the world.
What is your strategy for breaking into the US market with the concept?
We want to open some of the South American stores first so we can properly prepare the people we will need for a US restaurant. The cooks, the wait staff, the managers, everyone. I think we are starting on the west coast and then try to open others after that.
My dream is to have 50 or 60 La Mar’s around the United States. I would love to have that.
Why have you not made the jump to the US before now?
That’s because we have not had a philosophy toward the cuisine before - a basic idea for the food to follow. And that is what we are building with La Mar. La Mar is a concept, a model. It is a model to follow for opening more in the future so you can keep the quality, keep the philosophy.
How are you going to ensure the dishes will taste ‘authentic’ since many of the ingredients are not available in other countries?
I am exporting the bases for my restaurants. We have worked for four years to create ahi and ricottos that we can use them in all our sauces in all our restaurants. They have the authentic taste and they are made by us. Then, when we open a restaurant in another country, they will have this base to cook with and we make sure the taste is right.
How does that fit in your plan to popularize Peruvian food?
The next step is to start to sell these sauces, first in the restaurant and then generally. But it is not the time. My plan is to be ready when more and more Peruvian restaurants begin opening around the world and then I’ll be ready with my industrial division to start making these products for the market as it grows.
--------------------------------------------------------------
If you would like to read more of C.J. Schexnayder's articles about Peru, visit his blog at www.kleph.com
- You can find "La Mar" and "Astrid y Gaston" restaurant in our Business Directory
--------------------------------------------------------------
He is also introducing new concepts in Lima that include T’anta, a market-style deli; Pasquale Brothers, a sandwich shop and Panchita, a Peruvian-style grill.
It is his Peruvian seafood concept, La Mar, that is already making strides. The flagship store was opened in Miraflores in late 2005 and, by the end of December there will be versions in Mexico City, Mexico; Panama City, Panama and Sao Paulo, Brazil.
Currently there are La Mar stores under development every country in South America. Acurio is eying they US market, developing plans to open the concept in San Diego, California; Miami, Florida, San Francisco, California and Washington D.C
Earlier this year, I visited Acurio in his headquarters located in a picturesque two-story building in Lima's Barranco district. It is from his office and test kitchen here that he directs his growing culinary empire.
What is the state of Peruvian cuisine?
Right now, in Peru, we are living in the middle of a gastronomic revolution. There is a boom in cookbooks, restaurants and cooking schools. We are the reference for the rest of South America. When people from other countries look at Peru they say, "The thing they do well is cook." Our approach to food is a model for the rest.
Is that happening in the United States as well?
Yes. We have seen a lot of attention in the last year to Peruvian food. A lot of journalists, food journalists, have come to write about it because it is the up and coming cuisine in the world. We are where Mexican food was a quarter-century ago.
In the last three years we have seen Peruvian restaurants emerge as some of the best restaurants in the United States. That has never happened before. We are seeing high-end fine-dining Peruvian restaurants opening in Seattle, San Francisco and Washington D.C.
How has the popularity of Peruvian and NovoAndino food affected the restaurant industry?
Right now there are about 500 Peruvian restaurants in the world. What we would like to see is that expand to 200,000 in the next 20 years. Which is not impossible when you look at other cuisines that have taken off in the past. There are much more than 200,000 Mexican restaurants in the world today and those restaurants increase the exports of products from Mexico.
It is not just what these restaurants are buying. These restaurants led to an acceptance of Mexican cooking and now you find fajitas and tacos and the ingredients to make them in supermarkets everywhere. People are cooking these dishes in their homes. Not all of this comes from Mexico but there is a greater demand for Mexican products as a result.
What is the key for your approach to the business?
There is a main philosophy for our entire organization – use the best products possible, buy product daily, keep the best people, all the chefs all the managers, keep them in the organization – and that is the core of what we do. But if it is possible to use technology or techniques to achieve those things, we use them.
Success is not in the plate, it is in the experience. Because success is not in what you sell but rather in if the customer comes back. Our philosophy across all of our brands is to build a relationship with the customer - a long term relationship.
We are not interested in being the fashionable restaurant for one or two years. We don’t want to be the type of restaurant that people go to because everyone else is going. A key part of that is the people that live there, year round.
How have you developed your different concepts for restaurants?
Every concept we have developed has come from our own dissatisfaction when we went out to eat. We were not happy with what we found here. The passion we have for the food goes further than most of the places we found in Peru.
So we said "let's do the cevicheria of our dreams. Lets do the sanguicharia of our dreams."
Once you have the concept, how does that shape your philosphy for the restaurant?
I want people to get lost in the concept. When they leave the restaurant I want them to say, "I never knew this type of eating existed before." And, if we succeed in bringing that idea to the world outside of Peru, then the market will be open for other Peruvian restaurants to open.
What is the underlying philosophy behind the Astrid y Gaston chain?
You don’t want to set too many rules. You want to have the same philosophy but every place has different rules. Every Astrid y Gaston has to have a different atmosphere. They keep some Peruvian aspects like ahi’s and different traditions but then fuse them with local ingredients and dishes and traditions as well. All the restaurants have a point in common but they each need to be inspired by their own place.
Why did you decide to open the restaurant in other countries?
A lot of people came to me and proposed opening the restaurant in other places but I always said "no" because I didn’t even know what I was in terms of my cooking. We didn’t have a philosophy, we didn’t have a clear idea that we could tell people "This is what we are."
So after five years we had a better idea of what we wanted to be. We wanted to be a Peruvian restaurant. We wanted to offer modern Peruvian cuisine in a refined setting to compete with French-style fine-dining restaurants. It was not just from a cooking standpoint, it was knowing what we wanted to be from a business standpoint.
After five years we were ready. We knew what we wanted with the menu, we knew what we wanted with the atmosphere, we were ready with our financing and we went to Chile.
Where did the idea for La Mar came from?
La Mar was that idea for the type of cevicheria we wished we could go eat at. We said, lets build a cevicheria in the style of the classic type of cevicheria but offer the highest quality food and service.
So we wanted it to be open, we wanted music. We wanted some of the chaos... but have it with a unified design, with top-quality products. And lets make it a cevicheria that we can do here but we can also do anywhere else in the world.
What is your strategy for breaking into the US market with the concept?
We want to open some of the South American stores first so we can properly prepare the people we will need for a US restaurant. The cooks, the wait staff, the managers, everyone. I think we are starting on the west coast and then try to open others after that.
My dream is to have 50 or 60 La Mar’s around the United States. I would love to have that.
Why have you not made the jump to the US before now?
That’s because we have not had a philosophy toward the cuisine before - a basic idea for the food to follow. And that is what we are building with La Mar. La Mar is a concept, a model. It is a model to follow for opening more in the future so you can keep the quality, keep the philosophy.
How are you going to ensure the dishes will taste ‘authentic’ since many of the ingredients are not available in other countries?
I am exporting the bases for my restaurants. We have worked for four years to create ahi and ricottos that we can use them in all our sauces in all our restaurants. They have the authentic taste and they are made by us. Then, when we open a restaurant in another country, they will have this base to cook with and we make sure the taste is right.
How does that fit in your plan to popularize Peruvian food?
The next step is to start to sell these sauces, first in the restaurant and then generally. But it is not the time. My plan is to be ready when more and more Peruvian restaurants begin opening around the world and then I’ll be ready with my industrial division to start making these products for the market as it grows.
--------------------------------------------------------------
If you would like to read more of C.J. Schexnayder's articles about Peru, visit his blog at www.kleph.com
- You can find "La Mar" and "Astrid y Gaston" restaurant in our Business Directory
--------------------------------------------------------------
tags : Peru Lima Miraflores LaMar restaurant chef seafood Gaston Acurio cuisine food travel tourism
18 Comments
# F. Smith says :
9 January, 2007 [ 12:07 ]
17 June, 2007 [ 01:12 ]
15 August, 2007 [ 12:41 ]
22 August, 2007 [ 04:03 ]
23 April, 2008 [ 09:32 ]
30 May, 2008 [ 12:00 ]
5 June, 2008 [ 01:21 ]
8 June, 2008 [ 03:44 ]
21 July, 2008 [ 10:00 ]
8 August, 2008 [ 12:56 ]
9 August, 2008 [ 11:55 ]
6 November, 2008 [ 10:29 ]
21 November, 2008 [ 01:23 ]
19 January, 2009 [ 09:27 ]
18 February, 2009 [ 05:57 ]
19 February, 2009 [ 07:12 ]
2 April, 2009 [ 07:09 ]
2 April, 2009 [ 07:26 ]
# F. Smith says :
9 January, 2007 [ 12:07 ]
# Nicholas S Boucher says :
I'd love to open a Peruvian restaurant in Silicon Valley, California.
Any chefs interested and /or partners?
17 June, 2007 [ 01:12 ]
Hello all,# Ernestina Nunez says :
I am a chef, currently in Phoenix looking to participate in the start-up of a Peruvian culinary concept and a few Cevecherias. I have many years of French and Bistro cooking experience, and have a few good ideas in mind! If you have an idea of what you would like to do or possible locals, let's please exchange ideas and we could just meet minds.
Thank you in advance,
Chef Nicholas
15 August, 2007 [ 12:41 ]
How Ican get Gasto Acurio cookbooks# Marialuisa Zegarra says :
22 August, 2007 [ 04:03 ]
Hi! my name is Malusa I live in Florida with my family; Daniel, my husband, Malu, my 21 years old daughter and Danny, my 19 years old son and we all together are planning to open the best Peruvian Restaurant in Orlando, Florida. This was our dream since the first time we arrived to USA, and we think that NOW is the time to bring those dreams to reality.# AMALFI R. MUSTIGA says :I just wanted to share our excitment and interest with people like you and probably learn from different ideas or expierences and exchange ours too.ÂWe will appreciate any comments or even a Hello from anyoneÂThank you,Malusa            Â
23 April, 2008 [ 09:32 ]
HOLA MI NOBRE ES AMLFI SOY CHEF PERUANO POR MUCHOS AÑOS VIVIENDO EN DIFERENTES PAISES ME GUSTARIA CONTACTARME CON CHEF GASTON . GRACIAS# RONALDB BARBARAN says :
30 May, 2008 [ 12:00 ]
HOLa nuevamente estoy muy interesado en saber si gaston abrio restaurant aqui en san francisco en el area de la bahia kisiera saber soy peruanode lima y vivo cerca a 40 minutos de sanfrancisco.si tiene uanrepsuesta me la hacen saber please kiero llevar ami genteita gringa a que se chupen o dedos con la sazon denuestra comida peruana y si es de gaton best. gracias de antemano esperome peudan proporcionar dicho dato.# RUBI SMITH WINDER says :
5 June, 2008 [ 01:21 ]
# fabiana cuba chavez says :Espero gaston lea este e-mail....soy peruana pero vivo casi 7 anios en san francisco...adoro cocinar, y realmente lo hago bien.....
jajajajajajaja....estudie turismo y hoteleria en peru....y saben una cosa tengo el paladar muy sofisticado....y puedo reconocer muchas buenas comidas..y si es peruana es mejor...
please cuando habres tu restaurant en san francisco....te
prometo ser tu cliente number one......yo no se si conces Isac mejia el es mexicano y tiene un restaurant aki en south san francisco...el estubo en peru y me dice que te conoce...al igual isac es muy amigos de los duenios de fresca..restaurantes peruanos en san francisco....please ,mandame un e-mail sobre la historia de tus magnificas manos....porque todo el mundo sabe que heres de lo mejor..y super sencillo....creo que el amor que le pones a cada plato es tu excito....gracias y espero conocerte pronto..un beso
8 June, 2008 [ 03:44 ]
Whe started the first peruvian restaurant in Belgium,Antwerp# Teresa López says :
"el sabor andino" www.elsaborandino.be
21 July, 2008 [ 10:00 ]
Por favor les pido le hagan llegar este mensaje a Gaston Acurio. Sería lindo que tus restaurantes y cafeterías tuviesen platos para ofrecer a las personas alérgicas al gluten, sé que hay muchos turistas que padecen de esta alergia y que se sienten perdidos cuando en la mayoría de los restaurantes no los pueden atender. Yo también soy alérgica al gluten pero me gustaría poder ir al Tanta y comer algo pero segura que no me va a hacer daño por que puede tener harina de trigo cebada o centeno. Gracias# Giselle Escobar says :
Teresa
8 August, 2008 [ 12:56 ]
Hola Gaston. Como estas? No sabes quien soy.# rocio guarniz says :
Mi hermano Julio Escobar fue el primer paciente de tu padre Romulin una vez graduado de Pediatra. Y ahora mi hermano bien influenciado por su pediatra ahora es Oncologo. Me encanto ver tus reportes y saber de lo famoso que eres en el mundo. Que sigan los exitos y que viva el Cusco!
Soy sobrina de Sandro y Magally Fuentes! Los ubicas?
Giselle Escobar
Beaverton Oregon
9 August, 2008 [ 11:55 ]
Hola Gaston , Felicidades ! Yo creo que sera un exito mas , La Mar tu primer Restaurante aqui en san francisco , te admiro y te quiero agradecerte por poner el nombre del Peru muy en alto , a mi me encanta cocinar dicen que lo se hacer bien pero no se decorar mis platos , me encantaria conocerte . Mucha suerte !!!! Porfavor me gustaria saber cuando abriras tu restaurante , gracias.# Joseluis Urquizo says :
6 November, 2008 [ 10:29 ]
# Victor Alzamora says :Felicitaciones por los logros.
Yo llegue a los EE UU en 1982, desde ninio queria cocinar, pero en mis tiempos no habian escuelas culinarias en Lima y esa profesion era considerada como la de un obrero y pos supuseto mi mama preferia que fuera un doctor o ingeniero.
Cuando llegue aqui empeze a trbajar en restaurants y he observado a grandes Chefs en accion y he aprendido mucho, nunca tuve una formacion culinaria formal pero es un proyecto que todavia tengo pendiente que me gustaria completar.
La explosion gastronomica que esta ocurriendo en el Peru es fabulosa y el lugar que Gaston le esta dando a la comida Peruana es inigualable. Yo por anios planeaba abrir un restaurant Peruano con recetas tipicas pero actualizadas al gusto contemporaneo ya que las preferencias han cambiado mucho en los EE UU, pero veo que Gaston se me adelanto y ya lo esta haciendo en Latinoamerica, quizas todavia tenga oportunidad de hacerlo aqui ans que tu.
Un abrazo y felecitaciones de nuevo
Joseluis
21 November, 2008 [ 01:23 ]
Bueno, te digo que vivo en New York, y trabajo y visito a muchos restaurants de prestigio, es un orgullo saber que un peruano como tu esta dejando el nombre del mismo en alto, que te puedo decir, me gustaria conocerte si algun dia vienes por aca o estableces un restaurant te aseguro que tienes un alliado en lo referente a ventas es decir custumer services, si tienes o deseas contactarte por algun contacto en este estado lo puedes hacer a traves de mi e mail, te digo que conozco a muy pocas personas (modestia aparte) y bueno trabajo actualmente en un French Restaurant (L'escale in Greenwich CT). De todas maneras fue un gusto escribirte ... mil felicitaciones y ojala que cuando este en Peru te visite .... just in case my address in Westchester is 125 lake street Apt 8 N/North White Plains and my cell phone is 914 4737327, take care and Good Luck.... Best wishes to you# BRAUER says :
Victor
19 January, 2009 [ 09:27 ]
# Marco A Mendoza says :ME PREPARE EN CANADA EN ARTE CULINARIA, TENGO EXPERIENCIA EN COMIDA INTERNACIONAL Y MUCHO TIEMPO TRABAJANDO EN RESTAURANTES DE YELLOWSTONE CLUB, MONTANA, USA, ME ENCANTARIA PARTICIPAR EN CLASES, CONFERENCIAS, SEMINARIOS Y HASTA TRABAJAR O INVERTIR EN RESTAURANTES DEL SR. ACURIO, MI ESPOSA ES PERUANA Y ESTAMOS INTERESADOS EN HACER NEGOCIOS PRONTO, CONTACTEME CON EL SR. ACURIO. GRACIOS.
18 February, 2009 [ 05:57 ]
# Marco Mendoza says :To F.Smith:
Hi,If you are interested in opening an authentic Peruvian Restaurant in Sillicon Valley,Ca,i think it's not only a great idea but business ways a sound move providing you meet the right person.
I'm a Peruvian from Lima residing in the US for twenty plus years currently living in San Francisco ,with the passion and talent to start my own concept with the same philosophy as Acurio's.All i need is a partner who can put the money and i put the work.Email me ASAP or call me at my home (415)-8311202 leave message,i'll call you inmediatly.
Regards,
Marco Mendoza
19 February, 2009 [ 07:12 ]
Dear J.Smith:# josefa espinoza de olivares says :
I'v responded to your January 9th 2007 add in which you participated your love to open a Peruvian Restaurant in Sillicon Valley, California.What i didn't knw and just realized yestaerday mis tha your posting was from two years ago.Well i'm dessapointing that i did not read it around that time,because i'm looking for the longest time a partner for the same porpuse and haven't being able to find one,perhaps because the ones that read my adds do not know or haven't tryed the richness of Peruvian food.But for whatever is worth,i'm glag you like it and i hope you had found the person you was looking for and that you two made a good match,however;if you didn't find that person,maybe is for a reason and i hope you still reading this OUTDATED blogs ,so that we can meet ,you'l love my ideas and concepts for inticing and sexy menus.There's a whole new and interesting world to discover in Peruvian Food and it's unique grains,veggies, fruits and herbs with the decadence of time itself.
So if is you or anyone else reading this blog,and may be interested in my vision,please send me an e mail ,and lets get to work.
This is for Chefs with /without formal training,only passion for good is required,as well as honesty integrity .Greedy and envious people DO NOT NEED TO RESPOND.
Best Regards,
Marco Antonio Mendoza
2 April, 2009 [ 07:09 ]
me gusta comer rico , cocino muy bien pero admiro tu forma de cocinar tu sason ese gusto con que lo haces , me anima a prepara a mis alumnos como ayudantes de cocina de alli va mi admiracion hacia ti pues tu estas ayudando a jovenes de escasos recursos yo lo hago pero en otras especialidades este año lo queiro hacer para ello me gustaria contar con tu ayuda tecnica# MARCO MENDOZA says :
2 April, 2009 [ 07:26 ]
HOLA JOSEFA,
NO SE A QUIEN TE REFIERES CUANDO PIDES AYUDA TECNICA, PUES NO PONES NOMBRE ,ES HACIA MI O A QUIEN? PORQUE ACABO DE RECIBIR TU NOTA EN MI CORREO.
ESPERO TU RESPUESTA,
GRACIAS,
SALUDOS,
MARCO MENDOZA
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