Living in Peru : your everyday companion

This week LivinginPeru.com continues its monthly series featuring articles about life in various Peruvian cities and towns.

This month we are featuring the second largest city in Peru, Arequipa, written by Micah Cantley.

Micah has lived in Arequipa with his wife and children since May of 2005.

Modern conveniences combined with old world living- that is the simplest way I can describe life in Arequipa. As I sit here writing this, my youngest son is watching an American cartoon delivered via DirectTV, another son is upstairs watching a cartoon series he downloaded via the internet, and just a few minutes ago I was surfing the web, looking at homes for rent in Colorado. It’s a Saturday morning scene not unlike that of many homes across the U.S. I’m sure.  Of course, we are not in the U.S. This is life inside the four walls of our Arequipa home.

Yet step outside and through the gate, and you will find yourself in a different world, a different time, a different mentality. Arequipa is by no measure a small city. With just over 1 million inhabitants, and Peru’s second largest city (despite the continued claims by the Lima suburb of Callao), Arequipa is the largest city I have ever lived in, despite growing up in the suburbs of Dallas. Prior to moving here, my wife and I were raising our children in small-town Colorado in a city with a population of less than 20,000. Upon arrival, “culture shock” does not begin to describe what we went through. Yet, almost five years later, Arequipa is as much home to us as anywhere else ever has been. 

From my perspective, Arequipa offers what no other Peruvian city from Lima south to Chile can: a well-balanced offering of that which those of us from developed nations have grown accustomed to, along with not only the opportunity, but the necessity, to live like the locals do. While it is possible to isolate one’s self, keeping only to the modern comforts, doing so would hardly merit the honor of saying that one has “lived” in Arequipa. 

If it’s modern comforts you’re looking for, Arequipa offers plenty. Located in Cayma, Saga (which in Arqequipa indicates the entire shopping complex rather than just the department store) is home to a movie theater, a few small shops, and a food court complete with KFC, Burger King, and Pizza Hut. However, this is the only place in Arequipa that one can find such American gastronomical delicacies. 

There are other shopping opportunities, mostly downtown, such as the shops along Calle Mercaderes at the corner of Calle San Francisco, directly off the Plaza de Armas. Until a few years ago, Calle Mercaderes was just like any other street: the two lanes packed with cars counting up to three wide. Now, the street, the first three blocks to be exact, have been closed to vehicle traffic, creating a long and comfortable walkway along a street lined with cafes, sandwich shops, and shops.

When hunger strikes, Calle San Francisco offers several fine choices of international fare. Turkish, Italian, and Mediterranean cuisine is all available, and all recommended. Seafood and traditional Peruvian fare also lines the street leading to the San Francisco plaza, home to a small chapel that houses a museum as well as the best typical shopping in Arequipa. 

Within a few blocks of this area, one can also visit the Santa Theresa Monastery.  If you’ve got a few hours to relax, walk, have a snack or lunch in the café, and enjoy the old architecture of this city within the city, it is definitely worth it. I have visited the Monastery a few times since living in Arequipa and if they were to offer a season pass, I would certainly buy one. 

La Molina de Sabandia, an old mill that still contains a few of the original, river-powered grindstones, offers a beautiful view of the countryside, as well as a relaxing visit to the past.  A visit to the mill in the morning with an afternoon sojourn to La Casa de Fundador (The Founder’s House) can make for a good way to spend a day. 

But what to do when the sites have been seen, that “New City Smell” has worn off, and the realization sets in that you actually live in Arequipa?  Well, you live. Once settled, life in Arequipa presents an odd combination of tranquility and confusion. The main streets are crowded with cars, and downtown traffic can be maddening at times. Often my wife and I will exit our taxi several blocks ahead of our downtown destination to avoid sitting still, and we usually arrive 5 minutes sooner than we would otherwise. 



Arequipa, for a city its size, remains behind the times. Entertainment options are sparse. Aside from the aforementioned movie theater and mall-like retail shops, Arqequipa offers little in the way modern recreation. We have no bowling alley, aside from the few lanes at the International Club, and only one golf course, which was probably not designed by Jack Nicklaus. We do have a few go-kart tracks, which seem to be popular with the teenagers. 

I have seen listings for musicals and shows put on in the theater downtown, though none by any names I recognize. Bullfighting is an Arequipeñan tradition, and is humane in nature. That is, the fight is between two bulls, rather than bull and man. The monument on Avenida Ejercito is testament to the tradition, and marks a spot famous for newlywed photo shoots. If you get married in Arequipa, there is a 99% chance you’ll have a photo taken in front of the bulls. 

Still, the people of Arequipa are never bored. Parades, processions, municipal celebrations, and polladas provide plenty of diversion from daily life. Social gatherings of any sort remain the one constant in Arequipa. Arequipeñans love to entertain, and they love to celebrate. Birthday parties are important events, as are anniversaries, graduations, and just about any other achievement one can think of. Though not always elaborate, these celebrations serve a purpose; they unite the people and invigorate them with hope for tomorrow.

Daily life in Arequipa can be very relaxing once the “modern” inconveniences of Peru are conquered. On many days after I drop my son off at school, I head to Cappriccio’s, a small café known for its amazing cakes and pies, some traditional and some are very Peruvian, along with a Euro-Mediterranean menu infused with Peruvian flare and flavor. If you are ever entertaining guests and in need of a dessert, Cappricio’s has what you need. 

After coffee, I go about my day. Usually, this means heading back home. However, when grocery shopping is on my to-do list, I have three choices, each superior to the others in their own right, while relatively equal in both variety and price. One cardinal rule to keep in mind: never do your grocery shopping over the weekend, unless, of course, that’s your entertainment for the week, as you won’t have time to do anything else. 

Tasks we North Americans take for granted, such as paying our utility bills or sending/receiving mail, are often main events in Arequipa. Several times while living in Arequipa my utility bills have been paid late, not because I was short of cash or lacking in diligence. Rather, my tardiness has been due to my lack or respect for the system. Nothing is simple, as we “gringos” tend to define it. 

Even if I want to pay all my bills on the same day, the chances of getting it done are slim. I’ll expect to walk several blocks, and visit 3-4 locations in order to pay utilities, cable, and cell phone service.  Of course, timing is everything, and this task must be planned around those few hours mid-day when payments are not accepted or stores are closed (usually from 1pm to 3pm). I could visit the actual service offices, which usually accept payments throughout the day, but as they are not located close to each other, this does not necessarily add convenience to the process. The process is what it’s all about, though. We call it strange, inefficient, or bad business. Peruvians call it Peruvian. I have to respect the system.
 
These “frustrations” are typical of Peruvian systems, regardless of what part of Peru in which you find yourself living. There are ways to avoid these frustrations, and though many expats can offer advice, the best method is trial-and-error, as the system is often not the same from one street to the next, let alone in different cities and regions.

Once the bills are paid and the fridge is stocked, the question of family entertainment still lingers. Luckily, Arequipa offers one of the best DVD selections I have ever seen. “Wait a minute. You’re not talking about bootleg DVDs,” you’re asking. Yes and no. I mean, can you have a “black” market if a “white” market doesn’t exist? 

In Arequipa, there is no such thing as an original DVD- one complete with a silkscreened label, shrink-wrapped and carrying a $20 price tag, at least not that I’ve seen. Even the few legitimate stores, such as SagaFallabella, Estilo’s, and Curacao, don’t offer DVDs, Playstation games, or computer software. They just can’t compete. After all, a trip to the market at Avelino can yield any movie or Playstation 2 game you desire for S/.3, and computer software can be had for S/.5-10, depending on the size of the program.  At those prices, legitimate products can’t compete. So, while there are many out there who will look down on me for my support of the “illegal” black market, keep in mind, in Arequipa, the black market is not an option, it’s the standard. 

That said, while these markets are safe for locals and visitors alike, I don’t recommend frequenting them at night, especially not to women and children. Not that Arequipa is dangerous. On the contrary, I find Arequipa to be quite safe. Sure, I’ve heard of drug deals, kidnappings, stabbings, robberies, and murders taking place in Arequipa. These stories remind me of home. The same rule that applies wherever you live now applies in Arequipa- don’t go places you shouldn’t, at times you shouldn’t, with people you shouldn’t, acting in a way that you shouldn’t, and you stand a good chance of not becoming a victim.  As always, common sense is the best protection. 

As for being taken advantage of, due to my obvious foreignness or any other reason, it doesn’t happen as often as some might think. I find taxi drivers to be quite fair, often times giving me change when I voluntarily overpay them. Most shopkeepers, in my experience, offer me the same prices they do everyone else. Of course, they quote me high, but then, that is the point of capitalism, isn’t it? This is not to say I’ve never been fooled; I certainly have. But again, learning and respecting the system is part of living here, and it is a necessity for survival, without a doubt. 

So, if you ever find yourself in Arequipa, for a few days or a few years, rest assured, there’s plenty to do, and plenty of time to do nothing. 
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During his time in Arequipa, Micah has been an English teacher (the expat standby), a school administrator, and a volunteer on various Christian missions. Micah and his family have also welcomed the addition of their fourth child, Cohen, while living in Peru. Cohen is a full-blood Peruvian of Quechuan descent, and at 3 years old speaks and understands both English and Spanish. With any luck, Micah and his family will be returning to the U.S. in just a few weeks, ready to begin the next chapter of their lives.
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To read the first article in this series, which is about Iquitos, click here. If you are interested in contributing an article about your experience living in Peru, please contact Katrina by clicking here.

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Excellent article. I agree, Arequipa is a good place to live. Great weather, great people and great food.

As an "Arequipeña" I have to thank Micah for his kind comments about my home town. I think he and his family were lucky ending up in my city. I am sure he speaks and understand Spanish and so he can really say that there is no justice when people say: "Arequipeno, ni grande ni pequeno" I think my people are warm and welcome foreigners with open arms.
One note: I was surprised there was no reference to the good food in Arequipa! Rocoto relleno anyone?
I am sure Micah and his family are looking forward to coming home in the States, but I am sure they will always keep aspecial place in their hearts for Arequipa...

I find this type of article a bit entertaining, although naive and boring since it was written by someone that lived his/her entire life in a small Colorado town (pop. 20,000). Maybe they should've moved to Denver first.

Anyway, the part that I find offending is that these Christian missionaries (a mysterious and deceiving sounding title to a CATHOLIC Christian) refers to her adopted son as a full blooded Peruvian of Quecuhan descent. What are the rest of us Peruvians supposed to be? what's a full blooded united states citizen?

I hope that upon their return to Colorado they embark on a full blooded mission to find the original occupants of their beautiful state, they're still there, in towns and reservations. I'm sure they'll remember from their history lessons how their ancestors arrived there.

Sandra-  Thanks for your comments.  Rocoto rellenos are among my favorite plates, and I plan to attempt to grow them when I get back to the states. 


jcwong-  Thanks for your comments, as well.  I am glad you were able to find entertainment in something boring.  Not many can do this, and after all, the article was meant to be entertaining. 

I'm not sure about the naivety of my article, as it was based only on my 5 years of living here.  Perhaps you should re-read the paragraph about my background.  I grew up in the suburbs of Dallas, and Dallas compared to Denver is similar to Arequipa compared to Tacna. 

As for the offense, all I can say is that I do not know the origins of all Peruvians- some are of Aymaran descent, others Amazonian tribes; some Spanish, some Quechuan.  It is likely that, like most Peruvians are a mix of the above, and yet if they are from Peru (born in Peru of Peruvian parents) they are "Pure-blooded" in my eyes. 

There is a difference between a nationality (Peruvian, American, German) and a citizen.  A full-blooded American would be someone who falls under the same designation as a full-blooded anything -born in and of parents of the nationality they are claiming. 

I don't understand the reference to Native Americans in the U.S., although it seems to me, based on my limited knowledge of Peruvian history, that if anything, my son would be most similar to them in that his descendants, along with many others of Peru, were driven into submission by the Spanish.  But I am no historian, and like I said, I know very little of this subject. 

Just for the record, I am not and have never claimed to be a Christian missionary.  However, what I find confusing is why a Catholic Christian would find mystery and deceipt in the term.  After all, if both are Christians, as you are implying, would it not stand to reason that both are on the same team? 

Regardless of all this, I meant no offense and apologize for any offense I implied.  My purpose of this article was for purely entertainment purposes and meant only as a generalization of my experiences, as those of others will surely be unique. 

If you'd like, please feel free to contact me personally at mkacma@msn.com, or reply here, and we can continue this discussion with the goal of understanding where the other is coming from. 

I don't know why a light heated article about Arequipa should be turned into a deep discussion about race and Christianity. Maybe we could all get together over a ceviche and beer and discuss them.

My humble opinion: You do not need to apologize... end of story.
Regarding "rocotos" let me tell you that I was able to bring seeds and planted them. I was so proud of my acomplisment when a saw my little rocoto growing... but it got to about 10 inches high and died!
Good luck and I really hope you can grow it; perhaps the climate where you will be, turns out to be more favorable than Florida!

Hey, enough said :) 

I'll probably have to be tricky in growing rocotos in Colorado, though we do have our fair share of chiles out that way.  We'll see what I can come up with, though. 

If you get them going... please do tell; you have my e-mail. I will really really like to know. They say that rocotos are "celosos" and they do not grow anywhere else but Arequipa! I will be there in a few days to enjoy them once more!

 i just find it funny that he would call american delicacies to KFC, burger king and pizza hut... no one here in the states thinks that way.... quite the contrary.... there is good food in the u.s. is unfortunate that people only know the micky d's....hahhahahahah i love arequipa by the way.... planning and hoping to go soon......

First of all thanks Micah for your article, it was for me a real pleasure to read it while I´ve been in Arequipa before this Christmas I will visit the city with my other half and we will stop by Capracio for sure. Dont worry about what others say about!! everybody is born the same the point is what we do when we get out of the womb. Good luck in your new experience,

sorry micah I thought you were a member of one of those looney tunes evangelical groups that are bent on going to Peru to convert the innocent.
As you can guess from my comment, I detest them.

If you're not, my deepest apologies, my great-grandmother came from Arequipa and I still have family there. It's a beautiful city by any measure, even without movie theaters. The restaurants, climate and natural beauty make up for it.

Under the Peruvian constitution, all persons born in Peru are Peruvian citizens. There's no distinction, and certainly no mention of the "fullblooded" concept. Your understanding of the concept of nationality is poor, the US state dept. web site has a lot of info.
Also, your knowledge of Peruvian history is not that great, especially after 5 years there.
Good luck back in the states.
JCW

Sorry but I cannot let this pass... JCW's apology was nice but was ruined with his last comments. How can any one know what is the knowledge of a person? just by a four or five hundred words article? Please!
There is no need for all of this. This page was not made for that kind of negativity.

I wasn't born in Peru but I'm a Peruvian citizen so that must make me an Irish Cholo.
Us gringos will have to study some Peruvian history or else we won't be able to comment on peruvian life!!!!!!!

Sandra-  I don't have your email (that I know of) but you have mine from my posting above, so send me yours and if I do get some peppers growing, I'll let you know.

Cecilia-  I'm glad you found the humor in my calling American fast food "delicacies."  It's funny, the things you desire when they are suddenly not available.  The same will go for Peruvian food.  Soon, I will be calling the Arequipenan delights I buy on the corners for S/.1 delicacies. 

JC-  My distinction should have been between race or ethnicity and citizenship, not nationality. 

Micah, please write to sarthur7@aol.com I wish you a lot of luck growing those rocotos. I can get them here but frozen; I have tried to make our rocoto relleno but it will never be the same! So, please, please if you ever get them going let me know; perhaps you will start a great plant that is not known in the States... except for the thousands of Peruvians...it could be a good business  My family and I will be forever thankful!

Why are you going back to the boring States? Stay in Arequipa.

Sorry Sandra, my comment was not intended to offend nor judge. In any case it was directed to micah, espefically about statements about Peru, its citizens and its history.
I think 5 years spent in any country are enough to learn a bit more about its history than just casual and false propaganda.
Again, there's no intended negativity in my comments, if you perceived any it's just a misunderstanding.
JCW

Sandra-  thanks for the email.  If I get the plants growing, I'll let you know how I managed it. 

Angie-  gotta make money, get my kids an education, and all that good stuff. . .

JCW-  I still wish you would correspond with me personally (mkacma@msn.com) so we could truly discuss all this.  At any rate, the majority of Peruvian history I have learned has been taught to me by Peruvians, so if it's casual and false propaganda I guess the real culprit is the Peruvian education system, as the history I know comes from Peruvian students, professionals, tour guides, and so on. . .perhaps you can point in the direction of true Peruvian history? 

...."I don't understand the reference to Native Americans in the U.S., although it seems to me, based on my limited knowledge of Peruvian history, that if anything, my son would be most similar to them in that his descendants, along with many others of Peru, were driven into submission by the Spanish.  But I am no historian, and like I said, I know very little of this subject. ...."
Anyway Micah good luck back home.

Look up Mariano Felipe Paz Soldán, Gustavo Pons MUzzo or Carlos Wiesse but you should start with Jorge Basadre Grohmann if you're really interested, as you can imagine the list is extensive.
In English the subject is also widely covered but with some emphasis on the glories of the Incas for example History Of The Conquest Of Peru by William Hickling-Prescott or more recently The Incas: New Perpectives
by Gordon F. McEwa .
Taxi drivers, tour guides etc are not a good source, your son is no different than any other peruvian by the way, 29 million in Peru and 3 million abroad, by law.

JCW,

You come across as a person with a chip on his shoulder, or axe to grind. Finding not only fault but looking for such, makes your manner ugly.

The owners of this fine web site from time to time ask members to write short stories about Peru and this is the case here. Micah was kind enough to allow those of us not familiar, a glimpse into life (as he sees it) in Arequipa.

Perhaps you can write something of a story, submit it to the editors of LIP and see if it gets published. I'm sure we would love to get your insights on Peru and what Peru really is.

And maybe, just maybe you won't sound so negative for once.