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Toshiro's: An Experience You can't Miss

By
Katrina Heimark
Photos by: Carsten Korch


Toshiro, owner and creator of the restaurant of the same name, greeted us as we walked into the intimate and stylish dining room. Filled with black wooden chairs and light colored wooden tables, the minimalist-style decoration accented precisely what you had come for: the fish.

Short, bald, and full of passion for what he does, Toshiro did hesitate to share with us his wisdom on the art of preparing food with fish. While the restaurant is obviously oriented towards Japanese cuisine, Toshiro emphasizes that his food is “not fusion, not Japanese, not Peruvian, but by Toshiro.” And he certainly has a unique product to offer.

While the location of Toshiro’s (above a Casino) was less than ideal, the exquisite cuisine and wonderful ambiance made you forget all about that noisy trip up the stairs. But perhaps more impressive than the cuisine itself was Toshiro’s dedication, his enthusiasm, and his incredible expertise.

We began the meal with a small cup of cold squid in a type of soy sauce, which, I assume is a standard start for anyone who visits the restaurant. We then moved on to the interesting Concha Toshi or scallops in a cebiche type sauce. The dish was elaborately presented, with fish eggs on top to give the dish an extra special texture and look. I would highly recommend this dish, especially to cebiche fans.



Next we were served the elegant Atun al Olivo, which, as the name indicates, consisted of thin seared slices of tuna, in a rich yet subtle sauce of olive oil. One could quite easily see that the olive oil was the best variety offered, and that the tuna was perfectly prepared, something that makes this dish a true gem.

And then we moved on to Toshiro’s Cebiche, which he described as “nothing special in terms of the flavor, but it is made with absolutely the highest quality fish. The quality is what counts more than the flavor.” And after taking my first bite, I completely agreed. The cebiche was served with long and thin sliced onions, a variation that I found to be quite pleasant. And, perhaps the most unique part of this dish was the fact that it contained chunks of ice mixed in with the fish to keep it extra crisp and fresh.

We continued the raw fish venture with an excellent variety of Sashimi. The portion was large, and consisted of tuna and “chita,” both of which were caught close to Pisco, Peru. When asked about his fish suppliers, Toshiro stated that his has his own supplier of fish for his restaurant, and that he personally trained the man in the correct ways of fishing. Drawing from his Japanese heritage, Toshiro explained that too many people ask “which fish is the best” when they should be asking “what season is the best for which fish.”

Toshiro explains that fish must be caught on a line, not trapped in a net, as the energy and confusion that abounds in net captures destroys the flavor of the fish. And, interestingly, he commented that recently captured fish varies in flavor, depending on the fish. For example, tuna must be gutted immediately after being killed, and then must be stored for four days minimum at zero degrees centigrade. Shellfish, he explains must be brought live to his restaurant and killed in a special way on location. “Each second that passes after the death of a shellfish allows for their flavor to get worse and worse.”

After listening to these sage words of advice, we turned to eat a steaming plate of squid with pea-pods in a butter sauce. The peas were also of extremely high quality, and their flavor combined nicely with the squid.

Then we were served a masterful plate of Shrimp, battered and fried in a special breading, and then dipped in a dark soy sauce with ginger and nabo. This is another dish that I would highly recommend, especially to shrimp lovers. The quality and the flavor of the shrimp was of the highest I have been served, and is a dish for which I would definitely go back.


Then we moved on to the makis, a highlight of the experience for me, and many members of the dining party. My personal favorite was the maki de trucha ahumada, but the maki cevichada was also an excellent choice. The maki-fry added a nice change of texture and flavor in comparison with the other two dishes.

We then had a sample of exquisite Nabo con Foie Gras, that I am sure would have an astronomical price anywhere else. The dish was by far one of the best we had ever had, and left us wanting more and more. The foie gras combined perfectly with the flavor of the nabo, and is a dish that I would highly recommend to anyone.



But the best dish of the day was saved for last. Pescado de Profundidad, made from mero blanco, was an incomparable culinary experience. With a smooth texture, yet an incredible and surprising burst of flavor, I would have been satisfied with just being served this dish. This dish showed to perfection Toshiro’s culinary expertise, as well as his incredible and profound knowledge of the sea and all it has to offer.

While Toshiro admits that his prices are 20% higher than those of his competition, it is, as he states, “because of higher quality products.” And that couldn’t be more obvious than in the last dish we tried. The minimum you will spend at Toshiro’s is $25, but let me tell  you that it is worth every cent.



We finished off lunch with a light, refreshing and what Toshiro calls a “digestive aid,” of maracuya. The dish was excellent and exactly the right way to finish off such a high quality meal. We all left incredibly satisfied, and with plenty of desire to return and try the rest of the dishes on the menu.



Toshiro’s Japanese Restaurant
Av. Conquistadores 450-San Isidro
221-7243

Hours: 12pm-3pm, 7pm-11pm, Closed Sundays



Add a comment :
1 comments

Ursula says :
28-10-09,06:42:35

great food, very clean, it is an art! do not miss it if you are in Peru



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