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Gastronomy

by Hans Hilburg

The history of Pisco began in Perú around the XVI century. That was the time when the first grapes arrived in Perú, brought over from the Canary Islands by the Marqués Francisco de Carabantes.

According to historians of that time, the first wine production was in Cuzco at the Marcahuasi Hacienda. However, the grape producing areas grew tremendously in the Ica valleys. The favorable climatic conditions of the area were ideal for the development of the grapes.

Because of the great success in the production of wines and “aguardiente” (spirits) on Peruvian soil, they began exporting wines to Spain. It was then that the Spanish producers realized that this commerce from Peru was beginning to have a negative impact on their interests. Once the grape production on the Iberian Peninsula began to go to waste, they petitioned Phillip II to prohibit this type of import from Perú. So in 1614 the prohibition of the sale of wines and spirits to Spain was decreed.

As a reaction to the prohibition, the coastal landowners in Perú increased their production of the grape spirit known as Pisco. In this fashion, it quickly became the most popular beverage among travelers of the region.

During the XVII & XVIII centuries, the export of the Peruvian distilled grape spirit, Pisco, began to gain notoriety and prestige due to its quality, and exports grew significantly. Production in those times reached around 310,000 “botijas” (clay barrels) per year. Likewise the commentaries from the travelers of the time in respect to the qualities and bounty of the grape production of the Ica Valley grew. There is a book, edited by the German Jacob Schlüpman, where one can read about the maritime commerce of the time called “ÉL PACIFICO IBÉRICO DEL SIGLO XVII AL XIX: Intercambios, producción local y la vida cotidiana en las costas americanas” (The Iberian Pacific from the XVII to XIX centuries: Exchanges, local production and the everyday life on the American coasts).

Pisco in North America

We should also mention the arrival of Pisco on the California coast, specifically to the cities of San Francisco and San Diego.

According to documents of that time, the first appearance of Pisco in North America was in San Diego in 1827. But the most important mention was in San Francisco around 1839 and later in 1858 at the “Bank Exchange Saloon”, where Pisco was already being offered as one of the house spirits. The most famous cocktail at the “Bank Exchange Saloon” was “Pisco Punch”, created by the bartender Duncan Nicol (1887), better known as “Pisco John”.

Kinohi Nishikawa says :
26-07-07,07:05:39

Thanks for this helpful guide to pisco's history! I hope to learn more about this unique spirit upon my return to Peru.

Hans Hilburg Vivar says :
10-08-07,03:07:19

Hello Kinohi,

sorry for my late answer. But I promess to keep you up date about Pisco when you get to Perù. Just let me know when you are coming, so I can take you for a good freindly tour. 978 81904

Truly yours
Hans

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