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Gastronomy

by Chef David Jesson

The Restaurant

Walking into Fiamma, if you did not know better, you could very well think you were in a modern upscale restaurant in Los Angeles or New York. The design is welcoming, as is the staff that greets you with great enthusiasm. The clean-cut corners add to the pristine ambiance. This all leads up to a preparation of your appetite for the collection of superbly created dishes that are available. Chef Daniel Estrada, who oversees the kitchen, has his hands in most of the culinary inventions, alongside Chef/Founder Roger Arakaki, making for a great team to complete this type of cuisine.

Italian pasta and Peruvian meats, with the addition of the uniformity of Japan, all make for a very interesting combination at Fiamma. The food we tried at Fiamma was very well thought-out. Great breads filled with olives and an array of herbed and spiced butters arrived to start off an excellent meal. Standard fare for a quick starter is a teaser of pasta with four cheeses and a unique risotto that is deep fried into nice bite-sized pieces.

Sampling the dishes with me was a Hungarian chef, a good friend of mine, who was as dazzled as I was by some of the creations we tried. We started with raviolis stuffed with sweet potatoes covered in a creamy sauce and grilled shrimp (for the recipe click here). The server commented that this was one of the ladies’ favorite selections and was very popular.

My absolute favorite was a wonderful surprise dish of Panzotis de Morcilla. Being one who loves morcilla (blood sausage), this pasta was the ultimate fusion for me. These little pastas were stuffed with a mixture of sausage, ricotta cheese, tomatoes, and, surprisingly, a confit of sauco (Peru’s elderberry). To top it off, they were covered with a delicate creamy nut sauce. Definitely a Four-Chili pepper dish.

From pastas we went on to explore the grill and meats. The Andino pork ribs were superb. Served as a standing rack in a base of puréed yellow potatoes, these ribs were succulent, having been marinated with herbs, ají (yellow chili) and lots of garlic, then perfectly grilled and topped with deep fried huacatay and chincho (Andean herbs). I was almost sorry I had to share with my friends. The Lomo Fiamma we had was cooked to perfection and displayed the talent in the kitchen. More on the Italian side was another fantastic dish of cilantro-lined risotto with duck breast cooked perfectly, quasi rare and moist, a great combination (for the recipe click here).

A full menu including salads with organic lettuces, great meats from the grill and phenomenal pastas, was topped off with, in my opinion, the best cheesecake in Lima. It was light, fluffy and served with a sauce of mango and sauco. It was the closest to true New York cheesecake I have had in Peru. The bar staff was ready with not just the classics, but a great selection of modern creations. Through his innovative management, Chef Roger has made an agreement with the wine store in the shopping center so that any selection they carry can be ordered from the restaurant, making for an endless wine list.

Fiamma is formal and business appropriate. The service is extremely attentive, and several of the waiters could explain the dishes in English. It has a very nice outdoor terrace area if you prefer to eat outside. For special events or business meals they also have a special private room that seats 10. Periodically, and on special request, Chef Roger sets up cooking demonstrations for large groups and businesses. All of the staff is well versed in food safety and as you would expect from Chef Roger, the cleanliness was A-1. Overall, the ambiance was elegant and modern, the food was fabulous, and the service flawless. Fiamma is a place where you can have a classy lunch or dinner with confidence.

The Chef

Not all chefs are alike; as a matter of fact everyone is unique. There may be some similarities, but each chef has his own ways in a kitchen. However, the kitchen is only part of a restaurant. In the industry we consider the front of the house and the back of the house two completely separate areas. The back of the house deals with buying the ingredients, running the kitchen, and creating the dishes. The front of the house deals with the clientele, the service, the tables, the atmosphere and the ambiance. As you will see, the founding chef of Fiamma has a passion for both.

Chef Roger Arakaki comes from a unique background. His first inspiration for food came from Japan. Born in Peru, he studied architecture without ever having the faintest notion that he would someday become a chef. As a matter of fact, he never wanted to be a chef, but became one out of necessity while in Japan working in his mother-in-law’s restaurant. It was there that his knowledge of architecture and the clean-cut rules of Japanese cuisine combined, becoming his forte in entering the art of foods.

Talking with Chef Roger, you can tell he is a detailed person; he has an intense persona that calls for your attention. Having grown up in Peru, he still loves the food of his nation. He remembers the great Lomo Saltado (stir-fry beef) as one of the dishes prepared by his mom, and even now, still prefers Seco de Res (beef in a cilantro sauce) and olluco (Andean tuber) for a meal at home. Complexity is a quality for him. He thrives on a good challenge. This, I believe, is one of the reasons Fiamma is successful. In his own way, he injects the experiences he has into each of his initiatives.

A great quality that Chef Roger has is placing a high value on family. He boasted about his beautiful wife, Janet and talked of their nine year old daughter, Majum, as a precious treasure. He loves cooking with his daughter and even travels with her to teach cooking in other cities. At home, most chefs have a fondness for keeping a stash of comfort foods in the house. He keeps cookies and chocolates around the house to satisfy his occasional need for a snack, and enjoys popcorn with a good movie. He maintains his Peruvian nationality by proudly claiming Ceviche, not too spicy, as his favorite.

Much in the same way as he became a chef out of necessity, his new venture Fiamma, meaning “flame” in Italian, came into place about 2 years ago out of a need in the area. Already having a successful Japanese Sushi restaurant, Chef Roger joined hands with Chef Daniel and put together the plans for a place that would have the best meat and pasta in the area. There needed to be an eating establishment with exquisite food and features to satisfy the demand of the neighborhood, especially being so close to the US Embassy. It may not be meat and potatoes, but meat and pasta is pretty close.

Being an innovative yet structured person, Chef Roger helped design the crisp edges and modern flair that fits Fiamma so well, and after winning several awards for the best Pisco Sour, an idea came up: the Pisco Sour Cart. This creative way of serving Pisco Sour allows you to custom-order your drink and have it made right at the side of your table. With all the best Piscos to choose from, whether you want it a little on the sour side or a bit sweeter, the barman behind the cart cheerfully guides you through making your own Pisco Sours to fit your taste.

His time working in Japan allowed him to see that Japanese Cuisine is complicated and there is little room for error. Everything must be presented in a particular way. Taking these qualities and transforming the blend between Japanese and Peruvian cuisine has allowed Chef Roger to maintain the traditions of both. He is a stickler for attention to detail and this follows through to service. Bad service or not being attended to properly is his pet peeve.

Chef Roger’s idea for a romantic meal would be Sushi Rolls, Champagne and a Lychee Mousse, a clear sign of his attraction and love for his Asian influence. The dishes presented displayed the innovative spirit he has in teamwork with his head chef, Daniel Estrada, while maintaining the composition of the traditional dishes. He commented that keeping tradition in fusion and not losing the essence of a dish is the secret to good synthesis.

In all, Chef Roger’s complexities make for his unique flair for food. As a person who loves food, I was impressed with this intricacy that is transferred into simple flavors with great presentations. He takes into account all of the senses when designing a dish, paying special attention to texture, presentation, and flavors that mingle perfectly on your palate. Chef Roger is in the new breed of chefs. As he personally takes responsibility for every aspect to ensure the satisfaction of his customers, he is setting the example to follow for other great chefs of Peru.

The Facts

Address: Av. El Polo 759-A. Monterrico, Surco

Directions: Right across from “El Polo Plaza” shopping center, one block from the American Embassy

Telephone: 436-2520 or 434-4960

Hours: Monday to Saturday: 12 pm – 4 pm, 8 pm to 12 am

Sundays: 12 pm – 4 pm

Reservations or questions: administracion@fiammarestaurante.com

Website: www.fiammarestaurante.com

Reservation recommended: Yes, for dinner.

Catering for special dietary needs: Yes.

Secure parking: Available.

Menu in English and Spanish: Yes.

Cards accepted: ALL major cards.

Business friendly: Yes.

Good for Large Groups: Yes, up to 10 or 12. Private room available.

Outdoor Seating/Terrance: Yes.

Gretchen says :
31-07-07,06:26:07

Great Review!
This is a Restaurant we must visit next time we go to Lima.

Stephan says :
3-08-07,06:44:37

Go, Go Gretchen!
I can highly recommend Fiamma. I've probably been there three dozen times. How come? I stay nearby with my brother-in-law and I've made five trips from Sweden to Peru totaling 16 weeks. Bartender Omar makes the greatest Pisco Sour in the world. The service is fantastic. Never had a bad meal at Fiamma. I'll be back soon!

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