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“In the future, gastronomy will be the main tourist attraction of Peru, competing with Machu Picchu.”

“For the culinary industry to keep growing, it is necessary to keep professionalizing the business”, says Fernando Puga, opening his eyes, as if accentuating the fact that he’s saying something very important. Later he reclines and tells me that AHORA isn’t anything other than the “Asociación de Hoteles, Restaurantes y Afines del Perú” (Association of Hotels, Restaurants and Related Businesses of Perú), which is 64 years old, has representatives in the 24 regions of the country and which is in charge of securing the well-being of the associates, toasting consultations for good business within the business area. With that he makes it clear that they look for excellence in service and in the management of the establishments that offer their services in the culinary industry of Peru.

“We watch over our partners and advise them in formal affairs which include taxes, labor, in the different areas of the industry that have to do with importation and exportation. That’s as far as our range of action goes. However, whether or not the food they serve at your establishment is good or bad doesn’t concern me,” He looks at me and shrugs.

But you are the president of this association?

“Yes”—he responds and continues—“the truth is that to belong to this trade you need to have spirit to serve and worry about each of the clients’ needs. ”The tone of his voice made it clear that he wasn’t trying to interfere in the business of others.

But, considering your experience as the owner of a restaurant (la Rosa Náutica), how do you see the horizon? The view now must be different than it was a few years ago. Today you have the restaurant tables filled.

“We’re going down a very good path, bit by bit. However, I have the soul of an industrialist, not a bohemian.” What excites me is seeing the continuity, the trends. He gets up and walks to his window where he can get a small view of the ocean—the tiny aesthetic right he’s entitled to—and turns to continue. “In Lima there are eight million people. It is estimated that 500 thousand go out to eat six to ten times a year. That means five million visits to restaurants of the highest quality. So, taking into account that a well-established restaurant has an average of 150 visitors per day, it’s expected that Lima needs 100 restaurants of top quality in order to be able to meet the demand. And yet, this demand isn’t currently being filled.”

It’s obvious that you are very passionate about this topic…

“Of course. Its because in this business you have to be passionate and love what you do. The person who invests time in this business and thinks that their work has nothing to do with gastronomy is only going to waste their time and money, I think.” He sits back down in his chair and stares at me intensely. I ask him, almost in confidence, if it was worth it to invest so completely in this business.

“Yes, it was a good decision,” he tells me as he smiles. “The most important thing is working in something you like to do. I was a hotel businessman from the beginning and have the training of a host, so I love my job.”

With everything we’ve discussed, it’s clear it’s a great time to take advantage of the market and all it has to offer.

“The gastronomy industry today is experiencing special changes and now with the TLC, the future is even more promising. Those who believe their flavors should be tried by various people, welcome aboard! Because what we need are people who want to offer these fusions, creativity, as well as offer good taste in decoration. Such as with anything, you need to put in passion, faith and professionalism.”

And the culmination you were mentioning… What is it about? Do you see it as something you’ve achieved because of the eagerness of respectable pioneers or is it a succession of events that have to culminate in a reality?

“Look, something very unique happens here: to eat well in Peru, one stays in his own home. Peruvians have sazón (good seasoning and flavors). And they have it in the northern, center and southern regions of the country. Housewives in this country have a special gift. And the reason could be a group of situations that added together, give a fabulous result: the ingredients they have at hand are one-of-a-kind. On one hand, the fusion of races that originated during colonial times has generated a good mixture. Peruvians don’t have a fear of salt or of strong flavors, but of subtle ones. If we add to that the fact that there are now specialized cooking schools, we find ourselves with first-rate chefs, ready to make food out of what they’ve learned, to create restaurants and expectations. This will generate an exportation of professionals who will be the head chefs in the most important restaurants in the world. Peru is starting to recognize the international level its gastronomy has reached. In Lima there are restaurants that have reached a world-class rate open and serving the public. Any foreigner who visits Peru is not only surprised by the venues and the food, but by the service, too. Peruvians are very careful, very hospitable, and that has been since always.”

It’s true. There is no better tacu tacu than the one my mom makes, but is a great menu enough to make a restaurant successful?

He smiles, laughs and then tells me almost secretly: “In Peru we eat up the ambience. I sell a good time. The public looks for a hospitable place on all accounts: attention, temperature, sounds, smells and, of course, in flavors. We have to worry about various aspects. People leave happy generally because of the ambience they’ve eaten on their dish.”

La Rosa Náutica is a perfect example of what you’ve just told me. However, it must be difficult to satisfy both foreigners and locals. Do you have different menus for each crowd?

“With a restaurant that has the image and prestige of La Rosa Náutica, you have to have a menu with special characteristics, as well as practical ways to produce it. However, we’re touristic because 80% of our clientele belongs to the national market, which assures our international market. Why? Because when they visit a foreign country, they want to eat like the locals do, not how tourists visiting the country do.”

And do you accept suggestions from the public for your dishes?

“For five years we’ve been working with eight chefs and each week they come up with new dishes to see if we can incorporate them into the menu. When you come to La Rosa Náutica, you take a chance with the chef’s hand. I don’t like it when the customers adjust the seasoning of the dish by adding salt, pepper or whatever, but the customers are always right… even when they aren’t.”

And what is your conclusion?

“That this boom is nothing. Peruvian gastronomy has just been discovered. This is only the beginning. Our gastronomy will be Peru’s main attraction. Culinary tours already exist: people from other countries who solely come to Peru eat, to try Peruvian gastronomy.”

I thanked him for the interview and left, but not before taking in the view of the marine landscape that acts as his main office wall. Now that’ll give you the energy to work.