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Gastronomy

By Diana P. Olano

Unlike its Northern counterparts, South American countries—Peru included—have never been affected by national prohibition acts limiting the manufacture, sale, or transportation of intoxicating liquors*. In the California city of San Francisco, taverns such as the “Bank Exchange & Billiard Saloon” shut its doors in 1919 because of the devastating effects the “dry” movement had on business. Before its demise, however, the bar was famous for serving a variety of Pisco-based drinks thanks to the spirit’s arrival and growing popularity in the port city.

San Francisco was first introduced to the Peruvian brandy in the 1830’s when rawhide and tallow traders brought the drink from Pisco, a city on Peru’s coast, which was recently devasted by the August 15^th earthquake. The spirit became easily accessible during the California Gold Rush of 1894. The drink’s popularity rivaled that of wine. That popularity can be attributed to the creation of the Pisco Punch.

“Bank Exhange” owner Duncan Nicol concocted the drink in 1853. His recipe called for a mix of pisco, pineapple, lime juice, sugar, gum arabic and distilled water. It was said to have been the most popular drink of the city in the 1870’s. Others would attempt to make similar versions, but none would match the distinct taste of Nicol’s own recipe.

The lemonade-like drink went down soft, but packed a serious—no pun intended—punch. "In the old days in San Francisco there was a famous drink called Pisco Punch, made from Pisco, a Peruvian brandy... pisco punch used to taste like lemonade but had a kick like vodka, or worse,” wrote Harold Ross— founder of the "New Yorker" magazine—in 1937. Nicol never revealed the drink’s recipe. He died in 1926, supposedely taking his secret with him to the grave. That wasn’t the case. John Lannes, manager of the “Bank Exchange” in its later years, kept correspondence of the recipe, which was later found and published as Secrets of Pisco Punch Revealed.

After Prohibition, Pisco’s use lessened and was eventually replaced by the more mellow and moderately-priced rum. Today, however, Pisco is making a comeback in San Franciso and other American cities. San Francisco’s revered mixologist Tony Abou-Ganim has praised the Peruvian brandy and believes in its resurrection in the states. "There's a great attraction to everything Latin right now because of the appeal of the art, culture, and food. Pisco has such a great heritage and it was such a presence in San Francisco back in the day," he told Inside the Bay Area earlier this month.

In Boston, Four Seasons bartender Ari Bialikamien created a less fiery pisco drink called the Peruvian inspiration, reports the Boston Globe. The Pisco Sour base blended with lemon chamomile tea was made as a way for Bialikamien to ease his customers into trying the more potent original.

With Peruvian gastronomy making its way to the top of the culinary world, we can only hope Pisco will join it for the ride. San Francisco welcomed it with open arms once. Here’s to it happening again.

*As stated in the United States Constitution of the time.

alex reccio says :
28-09-07,08:55:46

there was a bar downtonw (i live in san francisco for the past 15 years) that recently was offering a small "pisco menu" on sundays. Of course, there are a few peruvian food restaurants that offer pisco sour, or pisco cosmopolitans with a couple of pisco brands on their shelves, I must say, there's a lot of inconsistency with the quality of the pisco-based cocktails that i have tried in this city, however, it is nice to know that you can find a Pisco Don Cesar, or Montesierpe or Sol de Ica in a few stores here...of course, theres need for a larger flow of this magnificent brandy-like liquid into the Bay!!!!
I myself have a cute  little bottle of a Biondi that i got in peru last time i was there. I treat it like one of those little pleasures in life, after a long day at work or to impress some girl(s)......i dunno, i just enjoy the smoothness and simplicity of Pisco, or maybe, it is because it's my families hometown,...i just dunno.
Nice article guys!!

Mark Preston says :
6-07-08,03:50:05

John Lannes, manager of the “Bank Exchange” in its later years, kept correspondence of the recipe, which was later found and published as Secrets of Pisco Punch Revealed.

Above is a quote from your story. I can't find the author John Lannes at the Library of Congress. If the "Secrets of Pisco Punch Revelaled" is from a magazine article, could you please send me the title of the magazine, it's date of publication, volume number (if any) and the page the article starts on?
Thank you.
Mark Preston

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