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Gastronomy

By Hans Hilburg

I was trying to come up with a title for this article, one that could accurately describe what it means to those of us who love Pisco and its cocktails, to have so many establishments, among them large and small Hotels, Restaurants, and little "spots" which have long institutionalized a "hook" for their packages and specials for such things as lodging, menus, tours and other offerings. I am referring to the "free pisco sour"!

I think that INFAMOUS, is the word that can best define the "free pisco sour".

According to the dictionary, this word (adj.) describes something which is not worthy of honor, credit or esteem. Therefore this "Freebie" dishonors, discredits and sucks out the soul, life and heart out of the true Pisco Sour; that which is most representative of Peruvian cocktail craft. A cocktail that, when made incorrectly, steals the authenticity of the professional bartender’s "touch", and takes away the charm and joy from the bartending aficionado, from the housewife, from the partier and from all us who feel proud of making the Pisco Sour correctly, something that, in my opinion, is the most delicious cocktail in the world.

This is something that has been under my skin for a long time now. I’ve always know that the "free pisco sour" is made with the worst distilled grape liquor and many times not even with distilled grape liquor, but rather with a mix of left overs of all types which are not even apt for human consumption. This then results in the "Freebie" becoming "harmful" product, harmful not just to ones health, but also to the prestige of our Pisco and our cocktails.

The Pisco Sour is an explosion of flavors, aromas and sensations that make us thoroughly enjoy its blend. But when the dosage is off, (bad pisco and sugar) the result is definitely a little "atomic bomb", which results in an "unforgettable experience" of bad taste, especially for all those people who try it for the first time, and I specifically mean our friends the tourists, whom we should take particular care to protect, and who are the ones who will "spread the word" (good or bad) all around the world.

"A PISCO SOUR MISTER? NOOO! FORGET IT! NO WAY! When someone answers me that way, I know that they have already been through the experience of the "free pisco sour". The "Tourism Pariahs" have already ruined that particular customer or even market for us.

The problem is that these "pariahs" are all over Perú. I have just returned from a trip to Cuzco and during my week-long visit there was not one street where I was not offered a "free pisco sour". Not only that, it’s not just in the little places, but also in the 4 or 5 star establishments where "complimentary Pisco Sour" was offered and made with a cheap pisco. So I ask myself, what difference can it make to these large hotels to charge an additional $5.00 for their tour packages and be able to serve a GOOD Pisco Sour?

I once had the opportunity to travel around Mexico for year in the mid seventies. I went back three years ago for a vacation and just recently this year I was working in Mexico City around January, and let me tell you, I never, not even once, came across a place that offered me a "free Margarita" as part of tour package or as a way to "take the bait".

The Mexicans Project the prestige of their product, not just within their borders, but beyond as well. They take care that it not be adulterated and much less that it be handed out freely in the streets as a cheap freebie. "You get what you pay for".

And if we travel somewhere even closer, just to the south towards Santiago de Chile, I can tell you that during the year that I lived and worked there at a Peruvian restaurant franchise, I never came across a restaurant, bar or hotel that offered me a "free pisco sour", and of course I am referring of course to the Chilean pisco, the same one that we criticize so much as being bad pisco. At the end of the day what we offer as "free" turns out to be much worse.

There are definitely places that will offer us a good complimentary Pisco Sour, made honestly and with a lot of pride. And I know of places, that are not "5 fork or 5 star" that make wonderful Pisco Sours, but unfortunately, it’s not all of them.

Hopefully we will be able to do something to rid ourselves of this damaging trend, a trend so detrimental to our signature cocktail.

Cheers,

Penelope says :
16-10-07,02:35:19

Hello Hans and thanks for a great - if not entirely accurate - article. I know of at least one restaurant in Miraflores (the Bayview Inn on Las Dalias behind the Marriot, easily found as it recently boasting a fresh coat of "sunset orange") offers free pisco sours to lunch groups of six or more. Chef Robert Lazarte is a returning Peruvian who after 12 years in the US working at top notch resorts (including managing a 5 diamond boutique hotel in Virginia) wants ordinary Peruvians to be able to experience first class dining for working class prices... he offers a three course executive lunch daily for 8 soles (yesterday was ceviche, lomo saltado or mariscos picante, and a passion fruit postre, all served with the elegance of the finest dining you've experienced, including bottomless freshly squeezed fruit juice and if your party is big enough, it includes a 'freebie' of one of the finest examples of a pisco sour. My husband and I -proud pisco aficionados- would happily help you make up a group of six any day of the week to enjoy one of these.

hans hilburg says :
27-10-07,01:41:27

Dear Penélope,

Thanks for the heads up on this restaurant. I'll definatly have to check this place out, and there pisco sour that you highly recommend. It will truly be a pleasant surprise to find a place that uses top quality Pisco in their "freebie" Pisco Sours". I'll let you know what I find. Sent me an e-mail with your comments and suggestions any time.

Hans

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