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Pisco / Feature Articles

By Luis Repetto

In Peru, a land which appears to have everything, stands out as a priviledged place in the southern coast; a place that has been destined to be a symbol for Peruvianism since prehispanic times. Pisco, with all its implications, from the place it represents to the name of the most exquisite spirit of recent times, has given us worldwide recognition.

The delicate land of the southern coast of Peru, the composition of the earth, its nutrients, the temperatures, and the vineyards have created this liquor; a drink which has become an indispensible source in helping us get to know each other, love each other and entertain each other.

There are signs that exist which makes us believe that the first pisco vine plants came to Lima between 1546 and 1549, along with other fruits and products from overseas. However, the official story tells us that it was Franciso Caravantes who in 1553 brought stumps of the vine (originally from the Canary Islands) and planted it in the outskirts of Lima. The cultivation of the grape is followed naturally by the growth of the vine, which is followed by the distillation of the brandy, whose fame quickly crosses the frontier. In 1630, there was news in Spain of a Brandy whose quality could compete with that of jerez. Very soon this product would be loaded in Pisco to be shipped all over the world.

Pisco is a brandy which originates from the fermintated must of certain varieties of grape in distillers. The name is uniquely of Peruvian origin. And it can only be produced with the name “Pisco” in certain valleys in the regions of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna.

Pisco grapes come in eight varities and are the only ones, according to the national standard, that can be used to produce Pisco. These eight varities have been split into two groups: aromatic and non-aromatic grapes.

Production

The making of a great Pisco doesn’t begin in the wine cellar but rather on the field with care and the well maintenance of the vines and land. Distilling pisco also begins many months in advance.

The vine is a woody plant with a long lifespan. There exist agricultores with plants that are more than 100 years old. The fruit is very green and changes color once it January arrives, a season which is also known as “envero”.

When the grapes have reached suitable levels of sweetness, they are ready to be harvested. They are then taken to the wine press, where they are pressed and the must forms. Some producers have replaced the traditional pressing process with modern machinery that extracts the must much faster, but the majority still prefers the classic method.

After the pressing, the juice is placed in clay barrels which are sealed for 15 days for fermentation. Careful measures must be taken to ensure the barrels don’t become too warm. Steel storehouses are kept cool with water.

Distillation occurs when the sugar disappears, the alcohol appears, and the fermented mosto is boiled. This process uses a copper distiller. However , in numerous winehouses in the south, people still use the “falca”, Peru’s first distiller which some believe conserves Pisco’s spirit because the distiller is more direct. Boiling the mosto produces a vapor which contains the alcohol that evaporates into liquid and finally becomes Pisco.

The distiller is a metal container that is heated and hermetically sealed. It has only one outlet: a spiral tube called “the swan neck”. “Falcas” don’t share this characteristic. The distillers allow for an industrial level of production of our drink. The greatest traditional producers of pisco know the precise moments in which to obtain the best quality pisco.

The route of pisco

Pisco is a name of Peruvian origin which forms part of the culture of the country and integrates its cultural identity. Its traditions and techniques for its production have now been passed on from generation to generation.

Since it is inherently of a certain area, it can only be made in five regions of Peru: Lima, Arequipa, Ica, Moquegua and Tacna. There are hundreds of family-run wine houses and some semi-industries which allow us to permit a route of pisco, a cultural route in Peru. It’s a journey that passes through different valleys, a variety of gastronomy and a population full of color and culture, proud of their traditions.

This route should be completed thoroughly. It’s important to highlight the importance between the producers and the personnel who make this drink. The centers of production are found in distinct landscapes, passing the coast and the dunes near the Mala, in the south of Lima near the foothills of the nearby Andes, in the valley of Lunahuana. On this route you can find winehouses of grand tradition and their owners carry with them knowledge handed down from generation before them.

This cultural itinerary should begin in Lima where you can find the city’s traditional bars, as well as the ancient winehouses that are found in the middle of the capital. The districts of Surco and Pueblo Libre have plantations which were transferred from Cañete thanks to the population surge which occurred in the city.

Since colonial times, diverse rivers have been used to supply water to the grape plantations. Rivers aiding these plantations are the rivers Surco, Chillón, Lurín and the Lunahuaná river, amongst others.

In Lima there are traditional winehouses, such as those of the Ugarelli brothers and the Copello brothers, both found in Surco. In Magdelena Vieja, today known as Pueblo Libre, we can find the bodega Quierolo, whose plantations have moved to the valley of Cañete, but still keep warehouses of this brandy near the central plaza of this district.

South from the city of Lima, close to León Dormido Beach and in Mala, there are dozens of antique bodegas who have secrets only for the ears of the experts, even though, despite the proximity to the capital, they are unknown to most people. Clay barrels and distillers welcome us.

In this zone we will find the winehouses of Aurelio Conde, San Andrés de Flores and the vitivinícola Lujan, which are located at León Dormido Beach and in Mala. There we will also find Alfredo Gordillo’s bodega, where they have returned to the traditional method of making pisco; a method which has been greatly accepted in Peru, as well as internationally, under the name Gran Cruz.

At the border of Lima

Lunahuaná can be found in the valley of Canete, which has been the center for pisco production for many years now. Thanks to the area’s climate and soil, we can find a variety of opportunities. In Socci, located at the entrance of the valley, we can find Victor Zapata’s El Paraíso bodega. His drink has received great recognition over the years. 80 year-old Mr. Zapata has learned from traditional pisco producers. He’s spent the last 15 years emmerged in this world. His pisco is only sold in his own warehouse, so experts know they must make a small journey to obtain it.

Proceeding with the route, in Jita we find the Fidelina Candela bodega, owned by Javier Sebán, where they only produce pisco from the uvina grape. He has won various contests in Lunahuaná thanks to his pisco.

In Condoray, it is necessary to point out Isabel González’s bodega Los Reyes. This bodega is a century old, as is the presence of this family in the valley. Here we will find a house is home to the bodega, as well as old distillers and clay pitchers, which are witnesses to the quality of the drink that is made there.

The second stop is Uchupampa, situated almost at the end of the valley. There we find bodega el Olimpo, whose owner is Rosalina Sánchez, widow of Quiroz who more than 70 years ago created a pisco of great caliber.

In Catapayá it’s easy to appreciate the bodegas of the Triunfo. In Pacarán we find other bodegas such as El Sol de Plata and the Bodega Buena Vista. Finally, in Zúñiga there are the viña Cascajal, the viña Zorro and the vitivinícola Rivadeneyra.

Each of the places mentioned reflect a family, a bodega, a plantation, an identity of distint values that come from the agrarians to the businessmen working on the creation of the drink.
This route is nothing more than an outline of great patrimonial culture which Peru stores in its fields in the southern coast and which are destined to receive visitors as well as contributions to help it become well-known and evolve within Peruvian culture.