Living in Peru : your everyday companion

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(LIP-wb) -- Chincha is an enclave of Afro-Peruvian culture, the home of hospitable and joyful people who have managed to conserve the traditions and customs of past generations and disseminate them through their music. They say that they have a secret in heaven, which they guard jealously here on Earth.


The Mysterious Don Amador

To wander through the dusty streets of El Carmen in Chincha at midday can be an invigorating experience. An unsuspected luxury. Heat without thirst. And a mystical air which permeates everything without tiring anyone.

The children of Carmen run barefoot, their faces wreathed in smiles. They are happy, for they learn the secret of El Carmen at an early age and keep it from their nieghbours from nearby communities. Throughout the year, during hours stolen from their playtime, Chincha’s children practice traditional dance steps to the delight of the image of the Holy Virgin of Carmen.

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Don Amador Ballumbrosio, the father of the famous clan of brother artists, has spent years initiating children into the mysteries of Afro-Peruvian music and dance as expressed by the unique traditions and aesthetics of Chincha.

Now in his seventies and undaunted by his wheelchair, he continues to fulfill the duty he imposed on himself so long ago that nobody can remember when he started. He teaches the children to dance for the Virgin, to express with their feet what lies in their hearts.

For the two principal days of celebration, on July 15th and December 27th, dances like the "festejo", "landó", "zapateo", "panalivio" and "contrapunto" must be perfectly rehearsed before being accompanied by Don Amador’s magical violin and percussion instruments like the extraordinary "donkey’s jawbone".


The Black Presence in El Carmen de Chincha

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Afro-Peruvians have been living in Chincha since shortly after the first blacks arrived with Pizarro and Almagro.

The Spanish invaders established the systems of "encomiendas", "reducciones" and "repartimientos", which translated into terrible statistics for the indigenous population. Of the estimated fifteen million inhabitants of the Inca empire, only some two to three million remained by the time of the first census of the independence era. The annihilation of the native peoples of Peru created a labor vacuum, which the colonial rulers filled by importing black slaves.

The contingents of slaves brought from Africa or the Atlantic islands were destined for the mining and agriculture sectors. The Africans were unable to adapt to the cold of the Andes, and were concentrated in the coastal haciendas of Ica, Chincha, Cañete, Zaña and Piura (Yapatera).

The black presence in these areas remains strong today. The towns of El Carmen in Chincha and Yapatera in Morropón (Piura) are cohesive communities where African traditions are complemented by indigenous practices to form unique cultural and artistic expressions.

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Celebrations for the Virgin

By the end of the 19th century, dance had become the principal expression of black culture. The Chincha-born expert in folklore, Clorinda Pachas Torres, says that in the black bastion of El Carmen, "All the traditional black music of Peru is danced and sung".

Catholicism is one of the Western cultural expressions which had the greatest impact upon the Andean cosmovision, creating rapturous manifestations of religious syncretism. The black slaves brought by the Spanish had often already been indoctrinated into the Church.

To the Festival of the Virgin of Carmen, the Afro-Peruvian community of Chincha brought their own gastronomy, culture and rhythms, making July 16th and December 27th the most important dates on the local calendar.

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In July, the celebrations begin on the ninth. On the eve of the 16th the streets fill with music, dancers and the acrid smoke of fireworks, and recitals and parties are held in the houses. On the morning of July 16th locals crowd the main square to attend the mass, honoring the Virgin with bands, choirs and processions. Tents and marquees are erected around the square, where the tireless dancers and musicians gather to drink and eat.

Chevo and the Virgin

"For me, the Virgin of Carmen means everything", says Chevo, one of Don Amador Ballumbrosio’s most talented children. "At the age of twenty I became ill with a nervous disorder. To cure me, I promised to carry the Virgin, attend all of her celebrations and work for the community and its children. And she responded.

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Not as an apparition or a voice one might hear. It was more internal. It is as if everything good that I have comes from her. It’s a reason to carry on living. Many people in Chincha claim to have seen her, or been reprimanded by her for their bad behavior. But she cured me and changed my life without any of that".

In the mid-1990s, Chevo Ballumbrosio met the photographer and anthropologist Carmen del Prado, whose extraordinary images accompany this article. "First, I showed her El Carmen. Then I introduced her to my family and she began to learn more about our ways, our past and our traditions".

From then, Carmen dedicated herself to recording the finest celebrations in honor of the Virgin of Carmen from Chincha to Paucartambo in Cusco. She was killed in a road accident in March of this year. They say that the Virgin wanted her at her side, at the heart of the festivities. So, let’s drink to that and keep the rhythm going!

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Great informaion! I enjoyed reading this article.

I had the pleasure of visiting Chincha in January and I can tell you I absolutely loved it! stayed at the Hacienda San Jose, enjoyed the music, the food and learned how to dance the "Alcatraz". 

Hi, I was wondering if you would be willing to help me with more information about visiting Chincha? I would very much like to stop there on my way from Lima to Ayacucho in early July, but I am curious about transportation. Is there a bus from one of the main bus companies in Lima? Is it necessary to take a bus to Ica, and search for a different bus to Chicha? How about hiring a taxi? Also, places to stay, restaurants, etc? Unfortunately there is very very little information on the web about the area, but it sounds like an incredible place- thanks for your extraordinary article.

Thanks,
alix

Alix,

I suggest placing your inquiry in our interactive forum (link) - I'm sure you'll be able to find the answers to your questions there.

First of all, I want to congratulate Mr. Korch for the excellent interview on EL COMERCIO today, sunday.

I would like to give you some tips about eating in Chincha.  There is a must in Chincha, SUNAMPE. There,  are several restaurants where you can eat the typical Chincha gastronomy, carapulcra, sopa seca, duck with rice, chicken soup, etc.etc. In Sunampe the best typical restaurant is called "EL BOSQUE".

In Chincha , on the Panamerican highway, within the city, you can find "LOS PATITOS" the best place to eat duck in all forms.
 
Just in case, just a few milles south, is Pisco, the best place in Peru to eat all kinds of fish food, smelt (pejerrey), scallops, sea snails, octopus, etc. etc.   
  

HAVE YOU EVER VISITED ICA CITY?? AND THE WONDERFUL "HUACACHINA"??? I'M FROM ICA, AND I CAN TELL YOU IT IS AMAZING! VERY GREAT PLACES TO VISIT TOO.... WHAT A PITY A DONT HAVE ANY PIC :(

awesome

no i have not why???


what is it like ???

My sisters, neice, and I travelled via private driver to Chincha to visit with Don Amador Ballumbrosio and his family in March 2008.  It was awesome!  While the family members gathered relatives from the neighborhood and the girls prepared to dance, we had a opportunity to talk with (he told me to call him Amador).  He has a rich history and has a wonderful fatherly presence.  I loved talking with him.  My only draw back was that I speak little Spanish, so I had to depend on our tour guide to translate. The girls danced beautifully for us, the sons danced and played instruments.  After a family photo shot. I left him with the words "I go back home to tell my great father (indeed I have a great and wonderful Dad) that I met another great father while visiting Peru."  Don Amadore blessed me with a gentle kiss on the hand.  We departed with wonderful memories.  We listened to his music on the way back to Lima.  Boom-boom, boom-boom... May God bless you Don Amador Ballumbrosio and your beautiful family.  Your are in our prayers.

Also a big shout out to George and Maria and La Hacienda San Jose where we ate lunch and toured the Slave Quarters and earthquake damage church.  Thank you all for your hospitality.

We also visited Canete, Huacachina, and Pisco and the Huaca Archeological site. 

How wonderful would be to visit the Ballumbrosio family , I never had that chance, I hope the Ballet Negro from Peru can come back to Usa.
Those people are one of the best folklores we as peruvians have, our beautiful Musica Negra.
God bless them.

I am so happy, we have tourist visiting Chincha and  enjoy the Afro-Peruviaan culture. I also think, it is the most beutiful treasure Peru have in this area: their music and folklore are expectacular.

At the present, I am trying to help and rebuild a school in Vina Vieja which it is  located also in the District of EL Carmen.  They have 140 children. Also, I am planning to continue posible goals  to imrpove their "quality of life", please if anybody have any suggestion or are willing to help out let me know at diazfam_99@yahho.com. I will be working closely with the community. We are in big need to create opportunities for them to generate jobs, All ideas. connection, donation are welcome. I could sen more information upon request.
Thanks and God Bless ! Iliana

Well,we had the opportunity to visit Ica city in April /2008 and we stayed at HOSPEDAJE MIAMI near to the movies area in Ica,very nice,clean and wonderfull attention with affordable package price,we went to  Huacachina, nice trip with the buggy's car,was amazing fun!!  Also the food is good and wonderful people.A lot tourist I saw here,is a great escape of routine.
I recomend this place for turist people to stay here; 011 51-56 238165 in Ica -Peru.   ---Hasta la vista amigos-Gracias