28 February, 2007 12:33:22 | in
Cajamarca
Courtesy of

Text and photos by Juan Puelles Urraca
A new day begins and the mist fades, revealing the teeming tropical forest. For the fog it is time to rest, while other creatures awaken in this unique area.
The first light of dawn crowds the dark horizon and suddenly myriad anxious birds rush into the mouth of an enormous cave, filling it with their raucous cry. As if in fear of the sun, they seek shelter deep in the cave.
The moist earth steams as the temperature rises in the mountains. The Cutervo National Park became Peru’s first protected area on September 8th 1961, and covers an area of 2,500 hectares.
The beautiful Tarros mountains are home to this national park, a rugged area of high peaks, plains, deep canyons, vertical crags, enormous caves and lush vegetation.
Divided into two distinct ecosystems – humid and very humid lower mountain forest – the park is home to diverse species of fauna.
The captivating oilbird
We decided to visit the Cutervo National Park in order to find out for ourselves how Peru’s first conservation area is doing after its first thirty years of life. From Cutervo, the eponymous provincial capital, a rough road leads to the district of San Andrés, some three spine-jarring hours away.
We are expecting to find a strange bird which only emerges from its lair after dark: the guácharo, or oilbird (Steatornis caripensis), which is popular with all visitors to the park.
After a one hour walk we arrive at the caves to find the oilbirds, birds approximately 35 centimeters in length, who feed exclusively on fruit.
There are several caverns within the borders of the park, their mouths hidden by thick vegetation. The caves are enormous, and one should take along a powerful flashlight in order to explore them effectively.
On entering this dark, rocky cathedral our anxiety mounts as we realize that we are in the bowels of the mountain, and it is our spirit of adventure which pushes us on.
A few hundred meters beyond the mouth of the cave our flashlights illuminate our damp, muddy and slippery path, and we are surrounded by stalactites and stalagmites.
Suddenly, the silence of the cave is broken by an excited flapping of wings followed by harsh cries. When we shone our flashlights into the vault of the cave, a horde of earth-colored birds fluttered noisily above our heads. Hundreds of these reddish-brown birds, their plumage mottled with white flecks, flutter above our heads. We had interrupted their sleep.
The night is their ideal habitat. As soon as the sun has set, they rise from their perches and fly swiftly into the depths of the forest in search of food. And at dawn they return to the caves in order to rest, making use of their highly developed sense of direction.
It is surprising to find life occurring under such strange circumstances. In the lakes and streams of these dark places catfish thrive, a unique species of fish specially adapted to this unusual environment.
A Crucible of Life
Beyond the caves many other threatened species live, such as the elusive jaguar, the spectacled bear and the giant river otter, as well as the anteater and the highland tapir.
In the area around Capilla it is possible to observe large numbers of Peru’s national bird, the cock-of-the-rock, as the colorful males form themselves into groups to display for the duller-colored females.
The lush vegetation shelters bright orchids, as well as walnut, cedar and oak, and extensive areas of palm forest.
Researchers in the region calculate that 125 families, 340 genuses and 683 species of flora exist within the park’s borders. In addition, the park is home to a significant number of birds, amphibians, fish, reptiles and insects.
The Cutervo Park is currently under threat from settlers who have invaded its frontiers and encroached upon protected areas, disturbing the beautiful landscape and causing several species to flee deeper into the forest.
Immediate action must be taken if we are to safeguard this important natural resource in the heart of Peru.
We pause at the entrance to a huge cave. It is almost six in the morning, and their cawing announces the arrival of thousands of birds, flying with uncommon speed over our heads and into the mouth of the cave, where they are quickly lost to sight in the darkness.
They will emerge again at dusk, continuing the life cycle of this marvelous national park whose purpose is the conservation of the fascinating life forms that abound within its borders.
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