Living in Peru : your everyday companion

(Written by Israel Ruiz)


Ayacucho, located in the south-central Andes, is one of Peru’s most beautiful cities. This is due to its attractive colonial style churches and large majestic colonial houses. These elegant churches, adorned with golden altars and jewels, date back to the XVI-XVII and XVIII centuries.

This city is not only known for its exquisite architecture but also admired for its deep religious beliefs and celebration of these beliefs. The people’s expression of their profound faith can be seen in their 10 day celebration of Holy Week.

Holy Week is not only a time of sincere respect for the death and resurrection of Christ but also a time of enthusiasm and fervor. This can be appreciated in the religious ceremonies and processions as well as in the cultural, artistic and commercial events. Just after Sevilla, Spain, the city of Ayacucho is considered to have the most traditional celebration of Holy Week in the world.

This amazing ten day celebration begins with Passion Friday, otherwise known as “Viernes de Pasion.” On this day the procession of “Señor de la Agonia” (The Lord of Agony), which is a statue of Christ crucified, and the “Virgen Dolorosa” (The Pain filled Virgin) begins at the Temple of Magdalena, also known as “Uray Parroquia.”

After respects have been paid, the statues begin their course which takes them through the streets of the city accompanied by devoted followers singing in Spanish and Quechua.

On “Sábado de Pasión” the “Señor de la Parra”, a statue of Jesus holding a cluster of grapes, starts its procession beginning from the temple of Pampa San Agustin. This temple stands out due to its early seventeenth century Italian style architecture. The temple's tall stone pillars at its entrance are decorated with grape vines.

Unlike the other days in the 10 day celebration, “Domingo de Ramos” or Palm Sunday is more commonly known and celebrated by people worldwide. The “Señor de Ramos” is a statue which is kept in the Basilica Cathedral throughout the year. A day before the procession it is moved and decorated in the Santa Teresa monastery.

The procession begins as the statue is mounted on a pony and heads towards the main square of the city. During it’s trip the statue is surrounded by twelve apostles and a multitude of devoted followers carrying specially and artistically braided palm leaves. The followers make sure to keep the palm leaves in constant motion as they praise the Lord and sing hymns. The statues return to the cathedral is symbolic of Jesus’ return to Jerusalem.

On Holy Monday the “Señor del Huerto” or Lord of the Garden, which symbolizes Jesus’ prayer in the Garden of Gethsemane, leaves the temple of the “Buena Muerte” (Good Death) for the procession. The statue’s throne is decorated with many candles and olive branches.

“Miércoles de El Encuentro” is a completely different type of procession. This procession involves four different statues; Jesus of Nazareth, The Pain filled Virgin, Saint John and the Veronica. The streets on which the procession takes place are completely covered with ornamental flowers. At about 9 p.m. Jesus of Nazareth enters the main square.

At a few meters distance he meets the Veronica, who bows and symbolically cleans Christ’s blood and sweat. The Veronica then goes to Saint John and tells him of her meeting with Jesus. They both then go and search for Mary (The Pain filled Virgin). Mary finally finds her son and “El Encuentro” takes place.

Holy Thursday is a day of sacred sacraments. Several mass sessions take place in which blessings are made and covenants are renewed. The Last Supper is celebrated and the ceremony of the “Washing of the feet” takes place.

Everyone from devoted followers to city authorities to military leaders gather together in Santo Domingo temple to commemorate Jesus’ death at Calvary. Holy Friday is a day where everyone is to where black.

After days of reflection and meditation the citizens of the city head to the hill of Acuchimay, where a traditional fair is held. There are all types of activities that can be enjoyed. After the fair everyone heads back to the main square for a long and joyous celebration. Having the whole main square as a celebration area, dances are held food is served and fireworks are lit.

A town tradition is to feed any and everyone. Huge pots are taken out and lines are made to receive free food which has been prepared by the townspeople. Concerts are held on every corner of the main square. This is truly a time of jubilee.

Resurrection Sunday is the close of Holy Week. People stay up all Saturday night celebrating, awaiting the beginning of the final procession at dawn. The procession is received with fireworks and music from live bands. After Sunday mass the statue of the resurrected Christ makes its spectacular appearance.

The statue, adorned with hundreds of candles, is received with fireworks, applause and the burning of “castillos,” large colored structures of all shapes that have fireworks attached to them. This is the most impressive of all the processions. The statue’s base is huge and has to be carried by 200 people. Another mass is held and the statue enters the temple among songs, praise and applause.

Holy week in Ayacucho is an unforgettable experience. Whether you are there all 10 days or just for the grand finale you can’t help but take part in the euphoria that is in the air.