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26 November, 2008 10:20:37 | in Peru

Part three: Trucking to La Paz with Mad Max

Richard Nisbet

Glen...  I can’t even tell you his last name.   He looks sort of like Mel Gibson and he has not a little of that Mad Max attitude.  Dive in.  Go for it full bore.  He’s big with long blond hair and a long stride.  His jaw is big, his mouth is big, his teeth are huge .   I can’t understand half of what Glen says.   His vowels are flat and his sentences are full of Australian slang that might as well be Chinese as far as I’m concerned.   I have to ask him to repeat and then to translate.   He tells me I’m not the only one who  has trouble understanding him.  I suggested to him once that maybe it was an attention-getting device, like people I know who speak so softly that you have to lean toward them and listen intently.    Glen didn‘t respond.   I asked him if he could understand me and he said yes, he could.


I hadn’t know him for long at the time of this story.   We had met in Norton’s a few times half a year ago and then recently he came back into town.   That was when I rode with him to Ollantaytambo and got my first taste of his driving.   It was later that night in Ollantaytambo that I got my first real taste of his humanity.  
   
We were in the bar, La Puzanga drinking a mix of jungle brews.   Somehow the mix didn’t sit right with me and I, who consider myself an accomplished drinker, got kneewalking drunk.

Around two in the morning I realized that it was time for me to throw in the towel.  I lurched off my stool and announced my intention to go back to my hostal, a walk of about ten minutes through the town and down a dark and deserted dirt road.   Glen took it upon himself to walk me home.   There were others in this drinking bout who had known me longer who made no such offer.    Maybe it was just that they respected my abilities.  Or maybe it was that the big Aussie, the truck driver, the Mad Max amongst us, saw someone in need.   He insisted upon walking me all the way to my door.   Then he went back and slammed on with the group until five the next afternoon.  I woke up the next morning, oddly enough without a hangover, but with a clear memory of how this guy stood up for me, practically walked for me.  Later I got an inkling of why. 

During the next week I continued seeing Glen almost every night at Norton’s.   One Saturday night around 10:30 he casually says, “I was supposed to go to  Porto Velho tonight.  One of the dancers is a friend.  But I don‘t know....”

Porto Velho!  A new disco out near the airport with a naughty reputation.   I had in mind a strip joint, a lap-dancing club, maybe even a little bit of a whorehouse.  

“Come on, Glen.   I’ll go with you.  I want to see this place.”

That was all the push Glen needed.  We were on our way.

Porto Vehlo is one of the few clubs in town that charges to get in.  Most of them claim that they do and they have hawkers out on the street passing out free passes.   But Porto Velho really  charges.  We paid our ten sols and entered.   A large open room, a big dance floor flanked by wooden tables and white resin chairs.  Soda and beer bottles on the tables and in the hands.   A full, but not crowded, dance floor.  Latin music.   Samba.   At the far end a bar, and high above the bar a  stage platform supporting seven beautiful, leggy girls... the dancers, all wearing the same yellow costumes, garments that revealed less than a bikini.

We worked our way to the bar and ordered beers.  Then Glen planted himself, his eyes locked onto one of the dancers, a wry smile on his big face.   

We were the only two gringos in the place.  The crowd around the bar wanted to clink glasses and shout “Salud!”   Someone offered to stash my mochilla, my little backpack, so that I can dance with more freedom.  Glen tells me it’s okay.  The guy is a bouncer here, as well as a genuine cop.   It seems that everyone wants to talk to us.  It’s all very friendly.   I think of what it would probably be like in the states for two white boys to walk into a  black club, or a Mexican club.   Not like this... not in my experience. 

A plump girl in overalls is dancing ferociously.   A boy next to me points to her and says to me, “My seester.  You want to dance with her.”

You want my seester, meester?   Maybe there’s some truth to Porto Vhelo’s  whorehouse reputation

Then there she is, in front of me and we are in a wild dance.  Most girls here dance sort of near you, not with you.  But not this one.   She is looking directly into my eyes and locking onto my moves, dancing  and laughing with abandon.  We carry on to the end of the song and then she is off dancing with someone else.  No puta, no whore here, I think. but then a little later her brother, if that is what he is, asks me to buy him a beer.   So that’s the deal.  The guy’s selling dances with his sister for beers.   It seems harmless enough, so I buy the beer.   It was worth it.  The little chubette was great to dance with.

After the show is over, the show girls, now in street clothes, come down and join Glen and me at a table.   They are beautiful.  One, especially.  She is model quality.  Her name is Karol.  I dance with her for a while and watch others watch her move.   Later I take a photo of her for my “Disco Babes of Cusco” collection.  A tiny bit of her yellow costume  shows above the high collar of her sleeveless blouse.

Glen doesn’t dance, but he’s sitting there with his girl in his lap looking like he’s having a very fine time indeed.

On the way home he tells me that people kept asking if I was his father.   Glen is a year younger than my oldest daughter, so I told him that I was certainly old enough to be his father.    Nothing else was said about it.  
 
*      *     *

We sit down at Ukukus for “a good feed.”   The place is small and colorfully decorated with fantastical masks.  For about two dollars you get a salad bar, soup and an entré with vegetables, always including mountains of potatoes.    While we’re waiting for the food to arrive, Glen talks about his biking experiences.  Jeff, the owner of Norton’s, who has ridden motorcycles over half the earth told me about biking to Ollantaytambo with Glen.   “He drives like a mad man,” said Jeff.   Glen brags about how aggressively he drives and admits to more than a few broken bones from motorcycle accidents.

We talk a little about our families.   Glen tells me that his father died when he was only four and his mother married again, briefly, to an asshole.  Nothing else was said about it.

Finally, a good feed under our belts, at ten thirty in the evening, Glen and I set out for La Paz, Bolivia.  The rain has stopped, but the roads are still wet.   I have brought along a bottle of cañzo that has had coca leaves soaking in it for over a week.   I figure if it’s to be an all night drive, we’ll need it.   Or at least I’ll need it to stay awake and keep Glen company.

The cab to his truck is so high that I almost need a ladder to climb into it.  The steering wheel is on the right side, so I presume this thing was imported either from Japan or England.   Considering the big diesel engine is just beneath us, the ride is quiet.   It is also smooth, but it sways a bit.   Glen explains that the cab is isolated by shocks and they need replacing, so we lean noticeably away from the curves.   But that’s all right.  It’s fun up here so high, and Glen is driving faultlessly even if his steering wheel is on the wrong side.   

The road is familiar.   It passes the little town of Tinta, where I had come to a wedding only two weeks earlier.   Glen tells me that he was on this road just a week before and people had thrown so many rocks on the road that he finally had to turn around and go back to Cusco.   The rocks were there as part of a protest, he said, about the location of a road that was being built from Brazil to the Pacific. 

A few minutes later we spot a couple of rocks ahead in the road.   “At’s nothing,” says Glen, as he artfully dodges them and the cab does a double-sway.   “Probably just somethin rolled offa the hill.”

But as we near the town of Sicuani, there are more and more rocks in our path.  At first Glen continues to propel the truck through without slowing, driving with consummate skill.  But then there are not only rocks in the road, but telephone poles, laid across and Glen has to slow down, sometimes even stop and wait for an approaching vehicle to wend its way through a narrow opening.   It is obvious by now that these are not accidental blockades and it’s getting, to me at least, to be a little frightening.   But not to Glen.  He hurtles through, cursing and weaving like Tazio Nuvolari traversing oil slicks in the Mille Miglia.   

“Sicuani’ll be the end of it,” he says.

“Why is that?”

“It’s the last town in the Cusco District.   They’re the ones protesting.”

We approach the lights of Sicuani.  The road bypasses the town to the right.   We’re abreast the town and suddenly come upon a group of stopped trucks blocking the road.

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