1 July, 2009 10:27:46 | in
Ollantaytambo
By Ben Jonjak

The sacred valley is so full of sights that it's almost overwhelming. There are few places on the earth with such a wealth of spectacularly preserved ancient cities; majestic mountains to view as a backdrop; and (of course) the most hospitable and friendly locals you'll find anywhere. Most tourists grossly underestimate the amount of time they need to get an adequate impression of the sacred valley (I estimate a good length of stay to be about 8 years, but even that's rushing a bit), and they end up simply sprinting from Cusco to Machu Picchu and miss out on all the rest. Trust me, if you take the time to see the other sights along the Urubamba, you won't regret it!
Apart from Cusco, Ollantaytambo is the other city that offers a train service to Machu Picchu, thus it is conveniently located as a destination spot for any tourist. Getting there is a snap. I'm sure there are combis to Ollantaytambo from Cusco (I took one from Urubamba to Ollantaytambo for a Sol or two), but you can simply go to the Plaza de Armas (or anywhere in Cusco for that matter) and negotiate for a taxi to take you there. My guess is that you'll be able to get a driver for anywhere between S/. 50 and S/. 80, which is a completely reasonable price (it's about a 1.5 hour drive after all).
Once you arrive at Ollantaytambo, you'll find it to be a pleasant little village with a kind of mountain retreat atmosphere. There is a tourist influenced section at the foot of the town's magnificent ruins, but you need only walk a few hundred meters in any direction to get a truer sense of what rural Peruvian life is actually like.
The ruins themselves are simply breathtaking. I often find myself saying that if Machu Picchu didn't exist, other sites (Sacsayhuaman, Choquequirao, etc.) would be just as much of an international draw. Ollantaytambo falls into this category, and provides for an excellent day (3-5 hrs to really soak it in) of hiking and absorbing the excellent Andean vibe. The fact that Ollantaytambo is included on your tourist ticket (the one that gets you into such places as Sacsayhuaman and Pisaq) make it an unbelievable value.
Ollantaytambo's ruins are spread out along a fairly steep ridge. Upon entering the gate, you'll see an immense terraced stairway that is the primary focal point of the site. Compared to some of the hikes in Machu Picchu, navigating the steps is fairly easy (although Ollantaytambo is slightly higher than Machu Picchu in terms of elevation).

Once you've climbed to the top of the stairway, you'll get an excellent view of the Urubamba valley. As you walk through the area, you'll also find many truly superior examples of Inca stonework. When you have exhausted all that there is to see above the terraced stairway, you'll have two options for further exploration. One is a narrow pathway at the back of the ruins, and the other is a stone walkway that leads off across the ridge face at the ruin's front.
The pathway at the back is the trail-head of an approximately hour long hike that takes you up to some small sites on the top of the ridge. The hike is only semi-strenuous, and the ruins that it leads to are fairly small, but it makes for a pleasant afternoon (and the views are magnificent).

The stone walkway is little easier to find as it is centrally located in the center of the site. However, it can induce a sense of vertigo as it seems to hang out over a cliff face (a few tourists who were there upon my last visit took one look at the path, shook their heads, and made a quick about-face to look for some presumably more solid ground). This pathway leads out across another set of terraces that line the ridge and eventually arrives at a small house that sits beside a descending stair. You can walk back to the site's entrance along another path that leads through a series of gravity-fed fountains which are just as spectacular as any similar fountain at Machu Picchu.
Ollantaytambo is the kind of historical site that really obliges you to stretch your legs in order to get a sense of it. It is a pleasant discovery for any visiting tourist since it is such an extensive site that seems to be simply "added on" to the tourist ticket (it could just as easily warrant its own separate entry fee). Plus, the fact that it's located right next to the premier train station to Machu Picchu (Ollantaytambo offers a much wider range of departure times), makes it a no-brainer for adding to your Cusco itinerary. Check it out, you won't be sorry!
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Ollantaytambo, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, Inca, Peru, Tourism Add to del.icio.us |
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