Living in Peru : your everyday companion

by
Rodney L. Dodig

The party of Wari elders approached the gate to the great city of Pachacamac with great reverence and more than a touch of fear. This was their first trip to the great city and the magnificent Temple of the Sun since the mighty Inca conquered the world. As they passed over the hills approaching the city the great temple stood above the walls in blazing red, a massive temple to the great Sun God “Inti”, built by the ruling Inca Tupac Yupanqui. They were here to seek guidance from the Great Oracle in the Painted Temple on important matters to their people. Their llamas were loaded with corn, cloth and other offerings to “He Who Animates the World.” They would be here for days, possibly weeks making the offerings and seeking the answers to their questions. Entering the eastern gate they paraded down the broad avenue along with the other supplicants from all over the empire. The sweet smell of putrefying flesh from the sacrifices floated through the air and the sounds of the people bartering in the stalls along the street assailed their ears. Carrion birds circled overhead and …….

At least this is part the fantasy that I was having when I visited the monumental ruins of Pachacamac on the southern outskirts of modern day Lima. I know how awed I was entering the site in its ruined state so I can only imagine what the peoples of the era must have thought and felt as they entered this enormous religious center dedicated to Pachacamac, “He Who Animates the World.” Despite several centuries of archaeological work little is known about this complex and the daily activities that went on here. They do know that it served as a religious site as well as a place where any who could afford the continuous sacrifices could be buried but it is conjectured that it was so much more. Only time will tell what they will eventually discover about this place.

Entering the archaeological park you are immediately struck by the vastness of the place, it spreads out in all directions almost as far as the eye can see. Then you find out that this is only a remnant of the religious complex; that much of it has been built over by peoples coming down from the highlands looking for a better life. Just inside the entrance is the onsite museum and gift shop with a small restaurant that sells snacks. The museum is worth the short amount of time it takes to walk through it for those who choose to visit the site on their own. There are samples of ceramics, cloth, tools and a replica of the Idol representing Pachacamac in the museum. There is also a small snack shop and book store for those interested. Besides arranging for a tour of this site with any of many tour companies located in Lima, you can also arrange for a tour with one of the onsite guides as you enter the archaeological park. You can also tour the site on your own as they provide you with a map on entry. You can walk the site but be prepared for several hours to complete the entire site and you are also allowed to drive through the park and stop at points that interest you. The cost to enter and tour on your own is 5.50 Soles and the cost for a guide is 20 Soles but you might have to wait for one to finish another tour.

This site was in use as a religious center for over 1500 years before the Spanish arrived and was used by many cultures as they came to prominence in the history of this area. The site contains more than 50 architectural structures ranging from temples, administrative buildings, and storage areas to palaces. The major structures that have been investigated are Temple with Ramp 1, Temple with ramp 2, Temple with Ramp 3, the Palacio de Tauri Chumpi, the Temple Viejo (Old), and the Painted Temple, Temple of the Sun, the Plaza de Los Peregrinos and the Mamacona/Acllawasi. In addition there is a burial area around the Painted Temple that has received a lot of attention from archaeological teams. The site was known for its oracular powers in telling the future and was sought out by all the leaders of the various cultures who were in control of this site over time.

Entering the site the first buildings that you come to are the three so called Ramp Temples. It is thought that these either served as administrative centers or palaces. These three buildings were built during the Yschma Cultures involvement in the area. There are seventeen of these type structures inside the temple complex of Pachacamac. At the first of the ramped temples you can see the East/West road that ran through the complex. There is excavation work on the road occurring now and it is possible to see all the way to the eastern gate. Next is the Palacio de Tauri Chumpi built in the time of the Inca where a curaca (an elected official who redistributed goods and resources to the region) named Tauri Chumpi lived. It is thought that Pissarro’s brother stayed here when he came to Pachacamac to collect ransom for the Emperor Atahualpa. From here you have a stunning panoramic view of the Lurin Valley and River.

A short drive up a hill brings you to the entrance to this massive temple where sacrifices were made to Inti the Sun God by the Incan priesthood. The temple was built on a promontory that makes it the tallest building in the complex. Red plaster remains on some of the outer walls to give you an idea of how this temple might have looked to worshipers as they approached it. The views from the platform at the top of the temple are spectacular. Views of the islands off the coast as well as the entire layout of the complex will give you an idea of the largeness of this archaeological marvel. Driving down from the Temple of the Sun you will pass through the Plaza de Los Peregrinos. It is thought that this Plaza was the gathering point for pilgrims who had come to the god Pachacamac for guidance or to give offerings to Inti.

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Hi Rodney,
I went to the Sanctuary of Pachacamac just this past March and I was very impressed, it's so close to Lima and many of us limeños, don't visit it.
I went on a Mirabus, with a group of school friends (Class of '62) but I'm afraid I didn't know about the museum, and I didn't see all that you mention in your article, too bad. I have a feeling that I'll have to visit the site again, but in a private car to be able to see it all.
As always, I loved reading your writing. Thanks, again.

Very dusty place, my Jeep got covered in dust.  You will have to go back to Lima for lunch, there isn't much in the way of food in Lurin or Pachacamac. 

David N...... You are the saddest person I have ever seen. Everything you write is negative. If you hate Peru so much do the country a favor and leave. Peru does not need idiots like you living there.

Get out of SHUT UP.

Oh, Jeeps are made to get dirty.

Viva Peru!!

David N

This site is amazing, you need to remember you are in a country that does not have rain hence the dust.  Also my husband took me to Lurin, which does not appear much but they have the most amazing Chicaronne!! He said it was the best in Lima and it was.

To everyone else this site is wonderful, when you see the vast scale of the buildings... and you realise that there probably was more, but it has been destroyed by the little villages in the area.

The museum is good, but the shop that sells drinks and snacks is a tourist price place, so take your own or go in to Lurin afterwards..

Have fun!

David, One of Lima's best restaurants, La Gloria, has gone into partnership with an organic farm very close to Pachacamac. La Gloria al Campo serves really inventive 'new Andean' and traditional Peruvian dishes, some cooked in wood ovens, all fresh and mainly using ingredients grown right there on the farm. The surroundings are superb and the service is attentive but not intrusive. But if that's too fancy for you, you could also try one of the many places serving chiccarones along the main road. You could probably have your jeep cleaned at the same time.