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Nestled in the heart of San Isidro, Shizen is a culinary gem that beckons to local food enthusiasts and curious travelers seeking an exceptional dining experience in Lima, Peru.
Since its opening in 2018, through the change of location in 2021, up to the present day, the evolution of the Shizen team is evident. The new space forced them to work more on research, product utilization, and the connection to their roots.
They are a triad that works very well together: the sobriety and calm of Renato Kanashiro, the passion for fresh produce that Coco Tomita exudes, and the Piurana flavor memory of Mayra Flores. Together, they make everything work. We’ve seen how they have gradually dared to do more, and this is how their new tasting menu was born—a picture of their journey and confidence in doing it right.
Their Omakase proposal has evolved and is now more structured as a 10-course menu. It begins with a “Miso de tigre,” a hot Piurano-style tiger’s milk with a miso shiru jelly. This combination enhances the Leche de tigre flavor and marks a clear start to what’s to come. The Sashimi Piurano with zarandaja puree served with leche de tigre made with lemon from Tambogrande (a town in the Piura province) infused with Kombu, katsuobushi, and shiitake offers a sensation of fish freshness and zarandaja’s creaminess in every bite. The “Chirashi Ceviche,” a classic dish on the menu, features a bed of sushi rice, smoked tiger’s milk, catch of the day, seafood, and a sweet potato tempura. Each spoonful offers a variety of flavors and textures, depending on what’s fresh that day. In our case, it was bonito, octopus, prawn, and razor clams.
The “Tiradito Chulucanas” consists of Akami cuts (tuna loin imported from Spain) with a ponzu tiger’s milk infused with chicha de jora. The freshness comes from Kiuri, and there’s a punch of umami from the house-dried jerky inspired by Piuran-dried-meat. Each cut rolls up into itself, and the flavor explodes in the mouth. The sushi course features a classic Niniku, a crispy sushi cookie with toro tartar, garlic emulsion, ponzu gel, and a spicy touch with sesame oil. It’s accompanied by “Agachadito,” pan-seared sushi rice with a huarique stew, fish puree, northern dressing, yuzu gel, bonito, and a chalaquita. The latter is a homemade touch inspired by meals with Chef Flores’ father under the agarrobos in Piura.
The next dish connects more with Japan, the “Takoyaki,” inspired by street food they tasted in Japanese lands but with a Piuran twist. It’s a mashed plantain croquette with seasoned meat filling, served on a chabelo sauce and enhanced with wagyu and katsuobushi reduction that dances seductively, inviting you to eat with your hands and savor the deliciousness.
The “Sudado” and “majado” feature a yuca mash with pork belly, topped with a chita cut cooked Matsukasayaki style. This technique involves hot oil over the fish’s scaled skin, making it crispy. It’s bathed in a northern-style sudado with chicha de jora flavor. The final savory course are “beef cheeks,” braised for 24 hours with northern seasoning and kare (Japanese curry), served with pea rice, puree, and loche chips. This is the only dish that ventures a bit outside Piura and connects with northern flavors closer to Chiclayo. Each plate has been meticulously crafted and redesigned for a tasting menu they are proud of.
Shizen’s desserts have always been mighty; those are creations by PÃa Flores. The first dessert, “Citrus and Eucalyptus Sorbet,” features a nest of apples infused with eucalyptus and citrus segments (grapefruit, orange, and lemon), apple granita accompanying a lemon sorbet with mochi pieces. The interplay of textures and temperatures is perfect for cleansing the palate. The “Chumbeque” follows the desserts; it’s a deconstructed Piuran dessert with an intense orange color, presented as crispy layers with algarrobos parfait, achiote crunch, and a salty algarrobina caramel sauce. This dessert has been a delightful part of the menu since its inception and is a powerful and fitting conclusion to a well-crafted tasting menu.
The tasting menu is an excellent step that adds to Shizen’s offerings. The opportunity for improvement lies in developing a pairing, both with and without alcohol, that matches the level of the food.
IN THE KNOW: Shizen is located at the 999 Los Conquistadores Ave., in San Isidro. They serve the public from Tuesday to Saturday, 12:30 PM to 3:30 PM and 7:00 PM to 10:30 PM, and on Sundays from 1:00 PM to 4:30 PM. Reservations are recommended via WhatsApp or their website.