Browsing: Traveling


Machu Picchu 0

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Text: Anthony Velarde – Photos: Walter Hupiu



(LIP-wb) — A Rumbos team traveled the 124 kilometers that separate the Apurimac Valley and Choquequirao, the citadel that is starting to conquer the world, from the Urubamba Valley and the great Machu Picchu.

It was a five day trip from the highlands to the jungle, from narrow tropical valleys to freezing high grasslands, from our uncertain present to the heart of our illustrious past.

We entered the most infinite solitude imaginable as the gigantic snow peaks of the legendary Vilcabamba mountains seemed to rise to meet us.

Two hours before we had left Cachora, a small town in the Apurimac region, four hours from the city of Cusco. Cachora, at 2900 meters above sea level, with its ancient and robust pisonay tree that gives shade to the central plaza.

Piura 0

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In the middle of the desert, noteworthy natural refuges survive.

Photos: Alejandro Tello

Festival of the crosses

enlargeSunset at Lake Ñapique

(LIP-wb) — Few people are aware that the extremely arid Sechura desert possesses three distinct aquatic ecosystems inhabited by an impressive number of birds: the lakes of Ñapique and Ramón, the mangroves of San Pedro and the Virrilá estuary.

Researcher Alejandro Tello, one of Peru’s birding experts, has visited the area several times and recounts here his valuable experience

The narrow ribbon of asphalt that links the city of Piura with the port of Bayóvar is interrupted to the south of the village of Sechura by a strip of sea water reaching 35 kilometers into the interior. This is the Virrilá estuary, the ancient course of the Piura River and still used by it occasionally.

Today it is home to the largest colony of flamingoes in all Peru; with no less than twenty thousand of these birds putting the famous flocks of Paracas in the shade.

Cajamarca 0

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(Text: Iván Reyna Ramos – Photos: Walter Hupiu)

Festival of the crosses

enlargeFestival of the crosses in the village of Porcón Bajo, March 2005.

(LIP-wb) — Rumbos traveled to this beautiful city in Peru’s northern Andes and discovered many new attractions in the region. Avoiding the traditional circuits, we immersed ourselves in the golden history of the temple of Kuntur Wasi, traveled to the little-known Sangal canyon, slept in peasant houses and explored the popular mind – its beliefs and sorrows as well as its hopes and dreams.

A forest of palm leaves spread around us like fantastic wings. The Palm Sunday mass had just ended and, without really knowing how, we had been dragged along by a crowd of more than two thousand Catholic faithful – more euphoric than contemplative – in one of the most heartfelt religious processions in Peru: the Festival of the Crosses at Porcón Bajo.

Huancavelica 0

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In the Heart of the Andes

Village of Ahuac, Huancavelica, Peru

Village of Ahuac,in the charming Mantaro Valley, seen from the Arwaturo archaeological site.

(LIP-wb) — This story takes us along the backbone of Peru, from the bucolic to the commercial, through the Mantaro Valley, then on the Macho Train to forgotten Huancavelica and its sacred mountains, old colonial mines and scissor dancers.

Our adventure ended, via the Liberator highway, with the blessing of the Beatita de Humay, close to the ocean at Pisco.

You could say that history literally crossed our path, because the Mantaro Valley is essentially a cattle area and we had just left the Santa Ana hacienda, which survived the rigors of the years of agricultural reform and terrorist incursions, and is now a peaceful guesthouse.

And history crossed our path because a crowd of people and bulls appeared suddenly on the road, causing our driver, Valois Llanos, to brake sharply. This was the Chupaca fair, an old cattle ranching tradition.

We took the opportunity to check out prices: bulls for 2000 soles, horses 500, donkeys 200, pigs 100, and sheep for as little as 20 soles.

Pampa Hermosa 0

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Ancient cedar tree known as the The Grandfather

enlargeAncient cedar tree known as the The Grandfather, more than three metres in diameter and forty metres tall, in the heart of Pampa Hermosa.

LIP-wb) — After years of struggle, Pampa Hermosa has been declared a Reserved Zone by INRENA. It is to be hoped that the ancient cedars and elegant cocks-of-the-rock, together with the human inhabitants of the region, will benefit from this measure.

If a serious eco-tourism project is to be proposed – one that would bring benefits without destroying resources – then it would surely flourish. Who wouldn’t want to visit a virgin forest just six hours from Lima?

The branches scraped and clawed at our clothes as we climbed to Pampa Hermosa among dripping trees that stood erect, defying the steep slope that was in places vertiginous. The creepers and lichen danced in our faces as our guide Elmer Mapelli stood in front of what appeared to be the long tails of dinosaurs. We raised our eyes to face an enormous tree. The dinosaur tails, higher than our heads, were the colossal roots that fixed it to the earth.

“This is the Grandfather, it is a cedar more than six hundred years old, but a logger could fell it in less than three hours”. That is what Elmer said eight years ago. But I remember it as if it were yesterday.

Peruvian beaches 0

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The Sea Of Lost Time


LIP-wb) There are two places in Peru where pleasure rubs shoulders with history: Colán and Cabo Blanco. The coastline that borders the desert department of Piura is a scenery of serene beauty.

Pure white sands, solitary beaches, a balmy sea, epic sunsets, fishermen about their tasks, local cooking based on seafood, and a sense of tranquility not to be found on beaches anywhere else on Earth: these are sufficient arguments to explain the fascination that those in the know feel for these shores, the only ones in Peru that enjoy a tropical climate.

What is more, Colán and Cabo Blanco are two spots in a region that hide a great deal of history.

Lambayeque 0

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Sipán Museum


(LIP-wb)– The November 2002 opening of the Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum, in Lambayeque, marked an important step for the conservation of the almost two thousand pieces which traveled around the world before finally finding a home in this building conceived in the style of the mausoleums of the ancient Mochica culture.

The story began in the summer of 1987, when the Chiclayo police force arrested a gang of thieves who had sacked a Sipán tomb and confiscated several pieces, including an important gold mask. This incident alerted Walter Alva, who immediately organized an emergency plan aimed at combating the constant threats to the region’s archaeological remains.

Paracas 0

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LIP-wb) The goal: to walk the entire Paracas Peninsula, but not in the style of other walkers. Our aim was to literally walk around the headland, climbing every hill and dune, from the beach known as Atenas to the fish restaurants of Lagunillas. Forty-one kilometers with the Pacific to our right and the desert to our left…

Text: Stephen Light.
Photos: Victor Villanueva.

The tracks of foxes, of barefoot fishermen, of fishermen’s motorcycles. Red ochre, yellow ochre. A blue, infinite sky. Sweat and the breaking of the waves. The wind lifting the sand that absorbs one’s every footfall and erases the line between land and sky, sea and sky.

Such are the impressions gathered by the walker’s senses as he treks around the Paracas coastline.

Tarma, Chanchamayo 0

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Leaping from the highlands to the jungle in just one hour

Tarma and the Chanchamayo Valley


(LIP-wb) Accompany us on a journey by road to two of the most beautiful, and most frequently-visited, destinations in the central highlands. Tarma, an enclave of flowers and fertile fields, and the Chanchamayo valley – all the beauty of the central jungle region within easy reach. Fasten your seatbelt and join us!

Tarma, “The Pearl of the Andes”, is located just 56 km from La Oroya. It is reached along a descending, serpentine road that passes through some of the most beautiful farmland in the country. This famous landscape of mountains and rolling fields is a patchwork of different-colored crops – vegetables, barley and especially the multi-colored flowers grown to supply Lima’s markets.

Among the smallholdings, great eucalyptus trees rise majestically, and full-bodied weeping willows accompany the river as it meanders through the valley. Many of the houses are still roofed with red tiles, conferring added charm to the area. Tarma was founded by the Spanish in 1538, but it wasn’t until the government of General Odría – a tarmeño in love with his homeland – that the city began to develop.

Amazon 0

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Article and photos by Niko Kyriakou

Rafters departing from Nauta

enlargeThe Great Amazon River Raft Race takes off last Friday from the village of Nauta, 52 miles south of Iquitos by road.

(LIP-nk) – Late last Friday afternoon, over a hundred miles from any  city, a Peruvian Coast Guard boat lay with its nose plunged into the banks of the Amazon River. Under its white awning, a few officers dozed soundly, their radio blasting Latin tunes through the strangely calm afternoon.

Suddenly, the captain was awakened by two foreigners. Somewhere upstream, on a wooden-raft, a group of four Americans was missing, they said, and pointed towards an oncoming wall of black storm clouds.

Far upriver, the deluge had begun. Waves appeared on the surface of the river, and Micah Cantley, a 29-year-old from Dallas, Texas, began to worry.