Browsing: Chachapoyas – Kuelap

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Kuelap ruins in northern Peru. Photo by Robert Kittilson,

Following a visit to Arequipa and Colca Canyon, The New York Times Frugal Traveler headed north. To visit Kuelap, the ancient mountain fortress in Amazonas, he avoided organized tours and traveled by colectivo. Read about his long hike to Gocta waterfalls, a visit to mummies in the city of Chachapoyas and an experience with cuy. 

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By Jessie Kwak
Photos by Robert Kittilson

¿Quisieran que les cuento la historia de la mistica sirena? Would you like to hear the story of the mystical mermaid?” Señora Teo tapped her walking stick on the trail and glanced over her shoulder. I nodded, too out of breath to answer.

“Not too long ago, there was a shaman named Gregorio,” she began, without a trace of exertion. “He and his wife lived by the river, and he would often go up to the base of the waterfall and speak with the mermaid that lived there…” to Gocta Falls, and avoiding the siren's call
Señora Teo leads the way to Gocta falls.