Peru’s gastronomic conquest of the United Kingdom continues apace, as Virgilio Martinez’s new restaurant, Lima, has won rave reviews from the London Evening Standard.
The daily paper, which has a circulation of 600,000, sent its food reporter Fay Maschler to the restaurant in the Fitzrovia neighborhood of London. She came away enchanted, declaring Lima her “restaurant of the week” and assigning it four stars.
Maschler was especially struck by the visual beauty of the dishes she sampled, including an artichoke-and-cocona ceviche. She also found a salmon tiradito to be “visually enticing” as well as “challengingly emphatic.”
Maschler also extolled the virtues of the octopus with white quinoa, as well as suckling pig served with Amazon cashews and Andean potatoes. The one miscue she identified was a lamb shoulder that had been rendered too long, but even there, she says that the dish was saved by its sauce.
In contrast to several other prominent Peruvian restaurants, Lima appears to have no problem with service; Maschler writes that her server never “put a foot wrong.” She also described the restaurant’s atmosphere as convivial.
The reviewer for one of London’s leading dailies loved Lima, Virgilio Martinez’s new restaurant.