Estrellita del Sur 2 is, by general acclaim, considered the best and most authentic picantería Arequipeña in Lima. This review tells you why!
Born in Arequipa’s countryside in the early colonial period, picanterías (literally, “spicy restaurants”) are traditional eateries serving one-plate dishes prepared by chefs who master the use of Peruvian ajíes (hot peppers) ―but rest assured they serve plenty of dishes for those with milder taste buds!
Established in 2003 in the heart of Lince, a small district of Lima best known for its well-preserved Art Deco architecture, family-run Estrellita del Sur 2 serves ‘real deal’ Arequipa specialties ―some of the most exquisite and varied dishes in Peru’s gastronomy.
The walls of this casual and unpretentious picantería are covered with murals depicting the White City, while the sounds of folkloric music and hungry patrons’ conversations make for a friendly, lively atmosphere.
¡A comer! Let’s Eat!
We tried several dishes ―all of which were served generously, true to Arequipa tradition― so, do go with a lot of appetite!
Rocoto relleno & pastel de papa
Fragrant, spicy and deeply flavorful, rocoto relleno is Arequipa’s signature entrée and a dish beloved throughout Peru and beyond. The strikingly red rocoto, Peru’s juicy, flamethrower-hot pepper (not to be confused with the typical bell pepper!), is stuffed with a creamy mixture of chopped meat, cheese, onions, raisins, olives, hard-boiled eggs and various spices, and then baked in the oven. It is usually accompanied with a layered pastel de papa (potato gratin), which softens the heat of the rocoto. It is a must-eat that packs the perfect spicy punch with cheesy flavors!
Fun fact: the rocoto dates back to pre-Inca times and is up to 40 times spicier than the jalapeño. Its name comes from the Quechua luqutu or rukutu.
Adobo
My personal favorite, adobo is a hearty stew made from pork loin marinated overnight, rocoto pepper, onion and chicha de jora corn beer. It is slow-cooked in a clay pots to enhance flavor and served with Arequipa’s savory pan de tres puntas (three-corner bread). Some say the bread’s triangular shape represents the Holy Trinity, while others argue that the three corners pay homage to Arequipa’s most imposing volcanoes: Chachani, Misti and Pichu Pichu. The only thing I know for sure: soaking up my adobo with this crunchy-yet-soft-in-the-center bread is incredibly satisfying. God could well be an Arequipeño!
Just like the rest of the picantería’s dishes, adobo is best accompanied by a tall glass of chicha de güiñapo, made by fermenting purple-black corn, or of Arequipa’s iconic Kola Escocesa. This red berry-flavored soft drink is made from naturally purified and carbonated mineral water that flows deep beneath the beautiful hills of the Yura Valley. It has received awards by the prestigious Monde Selection and the International Taste Institute for its “superior quality and taste”.
Pork- Chicharrón
Fried pork belly or rinds, served with papa dorada (oven-baked potatoes), choclo (Peruvian corn with big, bulbous kernels), sweet potato chips and sarza criolla, a simple yet intensely flavored mix of thinly sliced onions, ají amarillo (yellow hot pepper), lime juice and cilantro leaves. In Peru, chicharrón is meat that is slow-braised and then fried in its own fat. Chicharrón is the best of both worlds ―moist, tender pork inside and crispy crackle on the outside.
Golden Malaya & Lamb Chops
The lamb chop and malaya ―fried flank steak marinated with special hot pepper pastes and various― are served with oven-baked potatoes. Both dishes are topped with sarza criolla and are great options for meat lovers.
Dessert: Queso helado
If you still have some appetite left, queso helado (“frozen cheese”) is a delicious, artisanal dessert. Despite its name, it doesn’t actually have any cheese in it! Queso helado hits all the sweet spots ―milk, coconut, cloves, cinnamon and vanilla are patiently churned until an icy and sweet-tasting cream takes form.
Another fun fact: queso helado is Arequipa’s own unique twist on ice cream, which was introduced by the Spaniards in the 18th century. It used to be made using a mold resembling a block of cheese (hence, the name!), and was then sliced to be served.
Anís Najar
The perfect way to end any meal. Anís Najar tastes like black licorice and is Arequipa’s digestive liqueur. You can drink it as a fiery shot ―it has a dry flavor and boasts a 45 percent alcohol content― or add it to a hot cup of tea (té piteado). ¡Salud!
Other dishes
Like any respectable picantería, the Estrellita del Sur 2 serves a variety of other dishes, including guinea pig (cuy) and pork leg.
Other favorite is ocopa, an appetizer consisting of potatoes topped with a spicy, peanut-flavored sauce made with huacatay (pronounced ‘wah-ka-tay’, it is the Andean equivalent to cilantro) and served cold. If you love seafood, you can’t go wrong with a chupe de camarones (“chupe” means soup in Quechua), which is a hearty mixture of shrimp, milk, corn and other vegetables.
Important information
Jirón Pedro Conde 486, Lince (Lima).
You can eat in the picantería or order delivery (+51 966 044 474 and +51 982 237 159).
The most expensive dish costs S/. 65.
Parking is available.
Need more Arequipa in your life? Award-wining Kola Escocesa is now available in Lima. You can treat yourself to a taste of Arequipa at your local bodega, picantería or shops including Franco Supermercado (Jirón Morro Solar 906, Surco).
All photos: Annie Thériault
