Breathtaking Adventure to Colca Canyon During COVID-19 Pandemic

The journey from Arequipa to Colca Canyon traverses some of the most spectacular geological scenery and stunning natural terrain in Peru. Here’s how one traveler did it during the pandemic.

From active volcanoes, wild vicuña and swooping condors to lagoons, wetlands, wildlife and terraced agricultural landscapes: the altitudinal variations will leave you breathless. The journey also exposes you to a variety of unique ecosystems in the mere span of several hours. The Andean valley of Arequipa also has pre-Incan roots as well as Spanish churches and colonial town where life goes on as it did generations ago.

According to our guide Ruth Cruz Alvarez, visitors from around the world come to Colca Canyon not just to witness the condors soar, but to also see the amazing geographic diversity of flora and fauna on your way to this geological natural wonder. Plus, the rugged canyon is surrounded by two volcanoes, Ampato and Coropuna, which add to the mystique and allure of this unique landscape.

However, the canyon itself is still one of the major draws as it is the second deepest canyon in the world at 10,830 ft. That is almost twice as deep as the Grand Canyon.

Journey to Colca Canyon (Cañon del Colca)

My Peruvian fiancé Weninger and I crafted a bespoke itinerary with Traveling & Living in Peru, one that revolved around experiencing the condors. Flavia Hurtado was our expert travel planner/coordinator and is most highly recommended. She arranged for us to spend two days and one night in the canyon as part of a larger itinerary for us that explored the Peruvian Andes.

Located 100 miles northwest of Arequipa City, Colca Canyon is about 3 hours and 45 minutes by vehicle. Many visitors will break up the drive by overnighting in Chivay. There is another benefit as this also allows you to acclimatize to the altitude as well as experience the thermal springs.

It is important to know that the geographic terrain and altitudinal variations on the road from Arequipa to Chivay (midway between the valley’s highest and lowest elevations) and Colca Canyon are dramatic, with the low point being in Arequipa (7,661 ft.) and the high point being at Patapampa Pass (15,830 ft.) before dropping down to the midpoint of Chivay at 11,500 ft.

For those who come to this region from lower altitudes, it is essential to first acclimate by hydrating, avoiding alcohol, and eating light. That is one reason an overnight in Chivay makes sense.

After enjoying a night in Arequipa of pisco sours and causa, we begin our journey the next morning from Arequipa and head towards the volcanoes of Chachani and Misti. Sabancaya volcano was rather active and gave us many wonderful photographic opportunities along the way. About two hours into the drive our guide Ruth pointed out wild vicuñas that inhabit the Pampa Canahuas Reserve. They are one of four indigenous Andean camelids (llamas, alpacas, guanacos and vicuñas) found in Peru.

3-Leaf Inka Tea in Chinitos Patahuasi

Our designated tea break en route to Colca Canyon was in Chinitos Patahuasi, a high-altitude combination restaurant, souvenir shop, and bathroom break. (Bring some coins for the bathroom). After perusing the souvenir shop for gloves and hats with a few necessary purchases because of the cold air, we settled in for a cup of traditional 3-leaf Inka tea. The ingredients are all designed to alleviate altitude sickness and include mate de coca, chachacoma (a medicinal herb of the southern Andes),and muña herb.

Next, we pass through the National Reserve of Salinas & Aguada Blanca, a unique high Andean plateau that harbors extensive grasslands, wetlands and Andean scrub surrounded by volcanoes. The environment boasts an abundance of wildlife, birds, and waterfowl. From camelids and puma to flamingoes, Andean goose and the Giant hummingbird, the altiplano is alive with wildlife.

The final stop before descending into Chivay is Patapampa Pass, a panoramic overlook of the surrounding altiplano region and the Mirador de Volcanes. It is the highest viewpoint at 16,110 ft. and one of the highest mountain passes in the world. It will have you reaching for your jacket and possibly gasping for air.

Be sure to note the many small stone towers that dot the landscape. Known as pachetas, they pay homage to powerful mountain spirits known as Apu.

After dropping into the valley, we enjoy lunch and a relaxing afternoon at our hotel Aranwa Pueblito Encantado Del Colca. Here we spend the afternoon acclimating to the altitude while enjoying the picturesque property and nearby thermal baths. 

Condor Cross (Cruz del Condor)

We get an early start the next morning for the Condor Cross. The canyon is home to the Andean condor (Vultur gryphus), the largest flighted bird in South America based on a combined measurement of weight (up to 33 lbs.) and wingspan from 7-10 ft. A symbol of nobility and strength for Inca, Chibcha and Arawak cultures, they are esteemed in folklore and mythology. The Incas in particular considered them to be the animal of the spirit world.

The Condor Cross at 10,784 ft. is where you see the high-flying condors float gracefully on rising thermals occurring as the air warms – mainly at dawn and dusk. Because condors are heavy birds and not very good flyers, their use of thermal updrafts to glide through the canyon facilitates their scanning the canyon floor below for carrion as well as assist in their conservation of energy. Excellent eyesight enables them to hunt from great heights.

Though Condor Cross is a bit touristy – including indigenous people selling a variety of textiles, warm garments, souvenirs and food – it nevertheless offers incredible views. Plus, there are photo ops with a tame camelid and a life-size condor. As a real human inhabits the condor costume, expect to leave some change.

Why Colca Canyon Matters

Colca Canyon is located near the Mirador de Volcanes, an area with about 40 ominous volcanoes, some still active. The canyon was formed because of a fault line in the Andes and the subsequent erosion of volcanic rock by the Colca River. Though considered rather young from a geological perspective, the canyon boasts a rugged beauty that supported ancient civilizations and an abundance of terraced agriculture and wildlife. It continues to do so today.

Some have called the area one of the “Seven Natural Wonders of the World.” Other names attributed to the canyon include: The Lost Valley of the Incas, The Valley of Wonders, The Valley of Fire and The Territory of the Condor.

COVID-19 Travel Biosafety Measures

We took our dream trip to Peru in December 2020. We were most impressed with the fact that, throughout our trip, biosafety protocols were practiced by everyone on our itinerary to Colca Canyon. From the driver of our van, our guide Ruth, and stops for lunch and overnight hotels, we felt the necessary precautions and safety checks such as taking our temperature and providing us with hand sanitizer were respected throughout the trip.

All photos unless otherwise noted: Karin Leperi