Chef Francesco De Sanctis created Alegría, committed to presenting traditional Piuran cuisine—no personal interpretations or modern twists. “We bring culture, customs, and gastronomy, respecting tradition while adapting it to the present day.”
Peruvian picanterías are essential to the country’s cultural and culinary identity with an origin traced since colonial times, these traditional eateries have played a key role in preserving ancestral recipes, fostering social gatherings, and passing down culinary traditions.
Picanterías serve as living examples of regional cuisine, particularly in the north and south of Peru, showcasing dishes made with local ingredients such as ají, Chicha de jora, and native meats. Mostly run by women known as picanteras, these establishments have historically been spaces of cultural resistance and social integration. Their artisanal cooking methods, like using stone grinders (batán) and wood-fired stoves, keep centuries-old techniques alive.
Picanterías have also influenced modern gastronomy, inspiring renowned chefs and high-end restaurants while attracting culinary tourism that supports local economies.
Preserving the tradition with Alegría
Francesco De Sanctis was born and raised in Sullana, Piura, in a large family that, like all Peruvians, enjoys abundant food and generous traditions.
Francesco’s love for Piuran cuisine comes from his upbringing, enormous family gatherings, and his parents, with whom he loved exploring picanterías whenever possible.
“Alegría is a true Piuran picantería, an emblematic establishment, something culturally valuable for our regional gastronomy,” he explains.
The Menu
The experience begins with a toast with Chicha de Jora, served in handcrafted “cojuditos” and “potos” made by artisans from Catacaos, and the Chicha is imported to Lima from specific producers from Vichayal in Catacaos. “We track the origins of our ingredients, sourcing them directly from the north or local suppliers who already have a solid logistics system in the city.”
All plates can be shared or ordered individually. Among the cold options, guests can enjoy “sebiche”—spelled with an “S” because that’s how he first saw it written in Piura—made with sea bass, depending on the day, or mackerel sebiche, served with its skin.
Ceviche is accompanied by zarandaja (a northern peruvian white bean), boiled manioc, and chifles. Another northern staple is Tamal Verde, served with seco sauce and zarza criolla (thinly slices of onions with lemon and cilantro); the seco de chabelo, a signature dish of Piuran picanterías made with mashed green plantains, with a sofrito, lots of Chicha de Jora, cilantro, and seasoned dried beef; or the shrimp egg tortilla, prepared with farm-fresh eggs and grilled shrimp tails.
Some preparations are culturally shared across northern Peru with their unique regional differences, such as arroz con pato, which has a unique take on Alegría being less green than the well-known Chiclayan preparation. Also, seco de cabrito a la norteña is a must-try made with kid goat, Chicha de Jora, and a touch of cilantro, or the beef seco, all comforting preparations.
The dessert options play with traditional flavors, offering algarrobina flan, chumbeque, tamarind balls, and frozen “chupetes de leche” (milk popsicles) in small cups with wooden sticks coming in flavors like algarrobina, coconut, chocolate, and peanut.
The bar offers more creative freedom. While Piuran flavors remain at the core, the drinks program, designed by bartender and co-owner Thalía Talavera, includes both classic preparations and eight signature cocktails. One standout is her algarrobina, a classic Piuran cocktail made with honey from Sullana, mixed with brewed coffee and a sugarcane distillate and pisco blend using soy milk to have it lactose-free.
Of course, the menu also features chilcanos, pisco sour, and negroni, as “we know we are in a tourist district, globally recognized for its gastronomy, where visitors expect these drinks,” Thalía explains.
IN THE KNOW: Alegría Picantería is located at Calle Alcanfores 715, Miraflores. Open Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 10:30 pm, Sundays and Mondays from noon to 5:00 pm. Reservations are recommended.
