Nestled in Tarapoto’s Kovakii Hotel, Mambo has is a culinary standout, combining Amazonian tradition with refined creativity. Under the direction of Gustavo Cisneros, their menu explores local ingredients with an elevated touch. Mambo is poised to redefine Amazonian cuisine with each dish and cocktail, bringing a fresh and dynamic experience.
At 1215 Jr. Jiménez Pimentel in Tarapoto, you’ll find Mambo, a restaurant in the central space of the newly opened Kovakii Hotel. It promises to be one of the best in the city, and I say this with great responsibility. The quality of its dishes and cocktails is on par with those of the most celebrated restaurants in the country.
Gustavo Cisneros, a lawyer by profession and a full-time gastronome, is the creative director behind this project. He prepared thoroughly before launching his project, and what began as a passion has turned into an up-and-coming business. At Mambo, attention to detail is endless, and everything is meticulously planned.
Gustavo has built a team in which he places all his hopes. They’ve all settled in Tarapoto to bring this dream to life. The team undergoes constant training; experimentation is part of their daily routine. Research is essential, and creativity knows no bounds.
Before dining at Mambo, I toured several of the city’s restaurants to try some of the most iconic dishes of Amazonian cuisine, simply to have a reference point. It was an incredible dinner; I tried almost the entire menu. The first bite was a chicken croquette, a unique version of the traditional Juane, which blew my mind. The flavor was magnificent, and the croquette’s texture was perfect. The appetizers showcase the level of refinement traditional food can achieve. Ingredients like plantain, yuca, regional sausage, and cecina (cured pork) are handled with such mastery by the kitchen staff that it would be hard to choose the best dish. The appetizers are Amazonian through and through, served on tableware designed exclusively for Mambo.
Jordy Villegas’ cocktails are a true pleasure. The ingredients are carefully selected, down to the honey produced in their apiary and the hand-carved ice. The lack of suppliers is not an issue; they make it themselves if no one provides what they need. I’d highlight an original cocktail from the menu, the coffee punch, made with a cold brew of specialty coffee from San Martin, whiskey, Licor 43, and a foam of eggnog.
The meat deserves a special mention: the cuts and cooking are impeccable. The sides elevate tradition, with yuca puree, tacacho, and rice with sausage providing a feast of flavors. As for the mishquina, a traditional Amazonian condiment, Mambo makes its own, which has developed a unique identity while staying true to its original flavors.
They will soon open the hotel in which the restaurant is located. The goal is to offer a complete experience for anyone who comes and dine.
This restaurant will generate a lot of buzz, and I’m delighted to share my experience. It’s a place designed to create and offer the best. Gustavo is a leader who knows that teamwork yields the best results, and he’s doing an excellent job. He defines his establishment as an Amazonian cuisine restaurant and prefers not to use terms like “avant-garde,” “contemporary,” or “innovative” out of respect for those he admires. But go, eat, and draw your conclusions.
After enjoying the food, I reviewed the dictionary definitions. Mambo represents tradition and innovation in Amazonian cuisine, and I am confident that many others agree with me.
